Our Jacuzzi spa has an Economy setting in addition to the Standard
setting. In Economy, the heater only runs when the pump is on. I.E.
only during the filter cycles. When we get in it, and turn the pump
on, the heater runs as needed. The heater never runs other than those
two conditions. If we set it to Standard, the heater would run
throughout the day to maintain the set temperature.
I keep my spa set for 102F. It was running about twice this which still isnt
that bad. This is because the point where the temp probe is placed on the
plumbing isnt insulated and gets cold a lot quicker than the rest of the hot
tub. A little fibergalss insulation and tie wraps fixed that. I've found
that leaving a maintenance cover off can cause excessive cycling of the
heater also. Mine will run for about ten minutes even though the temp came
up almost instantly once the pump starts. I insulated the maint panel in
front of the pack and will do the rest of them this spring when I rebuild
the outside of the hot tub replacing the cheap pine with composite material.
I wish the pump wasn't located so close to the temp probe and heater. This
way I could insulate them better without worrying about the motor
lettingthe spa cool down & then reheating ALWAYS saves money because
the cooler the spa is, the less heat lost to the environment
In the extreme, if you let it get stone cold (~65F) for a week, you'll
save a weeks worth of heating. It will only take a day to bring it
back up. Turning the heater off saves money, costs "convenience"
sorry it "doesn't compute for you"
that's the whole concept of setback thermostats for water heaters &
If you don't believe it search back through the group & take a look the
water heater discussions
how did you get 7 hours vs 24 hours w/ "my method", I was just giving
some estiamtes. it all depends on the insulating propertires of the
spa & the ambient environmental conditions.
a cooler spa loses less heat to the environment, it's that simple
"catching up" takes no more energy than would have otherwise been
by your logic...... turning the spa off for a wmonth & then reaheating
for a one day use would take more energy than keeping it heated for a
I don't think so
By your logic, you could leave the spa off for a year and save all
kinds of money. I'm assuming it will be used.
It's all a matter of kilowatt hours vs time. How much time you are
running the heater to maintain the temperature needed for normal use
of the spa. If setback thermostats were effective with spas, they
would be equipped with them. The fact that they are not tells you
Here's a quote from one of the largest spa dealers in the U.S.
"According to the electric company, it costs less to maintain the
temperature in a controlled environment than it does to let it get
very cold and then boost the heat up on demand. Most outside spas
provide the ideal controlled environment. Don't let your spa water
get cold and then crank the heat up right before you use it. Aside
from running the risk of a freeze up, this method of heating will cost
you a tremendous amount of money in energy bills. It is recommended
to maintain your water temperature on a consistent daily basis during
Not my words, but theirs.
You are so full of crap I don't know why I waste my time trying to
educate you. On the outside chance that you aren't a troll who wants
to just argue for the sake of argument, here is the web page that you
were too lazy to look up. I am assuming you know how to access a web
page. Maybe not. http://www.poolandspa.com/page91.htm .
On Wed, 08 Mar 2006 14:57:31 -0700, Dick <LeadWinger> wrote:
I don't care who you claim told you what. They are simply wrong.
Just because someone works at a spa dealership, doesn't mean they know anything
about physics. It may even increase the odds that they don't. They probably
don't fully understand how an electric motor works, either. The issue here comes
down to physics. Sales people generally just parrot things they think they heard
somewhere, or that the boss told them.
Best of luck to you.
I don't know Dick's dealer or spa brand, but this is what I also was
told by my dealer, Clearwater Pool and Spa in Rochester, New York, and
I'm running a Beachcomber spa. I just leave my spa at 100F all the
time, with the filter pump cycling 2x daily, and it's working fine,
not costing me much for a couple of reasons: it's insulated on all
five sides of the shell (plus the cover is pretty good), and the spa
is located on the south side of the house, so it gets all available
sun, helping to maintain the temperature. This spa is so good at
retaining heat that I've even turned off the filter pump and seen only
a 2 or 3 degree temperature drop over a week in above freezing
temperatures. So keeping it at 100F really is easier on the machine
and doesn't cost much for the convenience.
Let's have a reading comprehension review. In fact, I'll retype
Dick's sentence: Most outside spas provide the ideal controlled
environment. He did NOT say "outdoors is a 'controlled environment.'"
The sentence in question clearly states that outdoor hot tubs are
equipped to control their environments, and you probably know that
they do this by using superior insulation material in product design
intended to maximize environmental stability.
You cut too much. He started out quoting something from an imaginary
power company that is out of context and then tried to connect it to
hot tubs. I'm SURE the power company was not talking about hot tubs.
They were talking about the fact that if you let a building go
completely cold, you not only have to reheat the air, but you have to
reheat the walls, floors, bricks, toilets, and other mass. Not
remotely equivelent to a hot tub. The mass in a hot tub is almost
entirely the water.
You're right, and here's what one power company, BC Hydro, says about
the cost to heat a spa:
Right on the first page, last sentence, it says that a well insulated
spa with a good cover costs little extra to keep heated at the higher
temperature. This .pdf dates from May 2005, so it's fairly recent.
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