help with compressor!

Hello all, I have an air compressor that blew out the two different O-ring gaskets on the top of the head. One is shaped like a D or half moon, and the other is round. Problem is, I just received the replacement O-ring material, and it is about a two feet long red rubber cord. I was expecting them to be pre-fit. It is the same material as what was originally used. How do I join it together to make sure that no air blows out of where the O-ring meets up? Am I to assume that when the O-ring material is cut to the proper length and face off against each other, that the torque of screwing the metal parts together will compress the O-ring together to form an airtight barrier? Below is a link to a page on my site that shows pics of the top of the motor with the old blown 0-rings in place.; www.tedharris.com/compressor.htm . Thanks for the help.
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Ted Harris
http://www.tedharris.com
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ted harris wrote:

We do that with our molds, just cut and it is compressed when mounted in the machine. Wrks well in a relativel low pressure application of about 3 bar pressure.
There is also a special (expensive) adhesive for O rings so you can make your own. I don't know if super glue would work.
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Ed
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Super glue works fine on neoprene. Can't say about other o ring materials.
Paul K. Dickman
Edwin Pawlowski wrote in message ...

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It works very well. We've glued-up O-rings for years with CA.
Max
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CA is the adhesive of choice for make-your-own o-rings.

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Ted, cut the ends as flush as you can and use some super glue. I am sure there is some special super glue for this .. perhaps Locktite 404 ... but I have had success with just plain old super glue. There are O-ring kits that come like that. Just a long length of rubber, a cutting jig, and some super glue.
William Lee

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Actually, I don't think super glue will work with the type of rubber. Just cutting face flush should work fine after compression. DON"T cut them exact fit, cut just a micron longer for shrinkage. When compressing the rubber tends to pull apart at the joint. YOu could try a dab of Permatex RTV silicone at the joint. The high temp red that I have says "pressure resistant"
Rich

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snipped-for-privacy@nospam.stx.rr.com says...

404 is the stuff. Expensive and short shelf life, but works remarkably well.
<http://www.mcmaster.com/asp/DisplCtlgPage.asp ? ReqTypTALOG&CtlgPgNbr170>
Ned Simmons
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cyanoacrylate ester will not work on siliconized rubber gasket material it will dry up and crack off
Rich
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Cut ends at 45 degree angles and lay one on top of the other.

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as one poster stated, cut ends on a 45, and as another suggested, either red rtv or copper rtv, and remember, a small dab 'l do ya
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Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
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Buy some big O rings (any good parts store, or even VCR drivebelts) and cut them down. Although you can buy reels of O-ring cord to make your own, these sets are huge and expensive (>$100) for a one-off.
For an O-ring used as a gasket, i.e. not a sliding or rotating seal, then superglue is an adequate adhesive.
Cut the ends square, not scarfed at 45. Although a scarfed joint is probably better, it's much harder to cut. An accurate joint is better than an optimised one. If you do make scarfed joints, use a single-sided razor blade and a tiny mitre box (like an old tape splicing jig) to cut both ends together.
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Smert' spamionam

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you would always cut on a 45 degree angle.It changes direction and cuts down on a leak path.If it were hydraulic packing it would be a lap joint connection.

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