Help shower tiling question!

I'm in the process of remodeling my bathroom. I tore out the solid-surface and drywall that was under it. I'm putting in a fiberglass shower pan insert. I'm thinking of using felt, backerboard and then tiling over that.
My question is, the flange of the insert sticks out about 1/3 of an inch. So, I'd have to use furing strips, correct? However, what about the transition from the backerboard to the drywall (about 6' up)? The backboard will be sticking out about 1/3" of an inch. How do I go about this problem?
Thanks for any advice!
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smith snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Furr out everything, have a transitional cap tile at the change in materials to give the wall a feeling of more depth, notch the framing so the tile flange is flush with the outside of the studs.
R
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I used 1/4" hardibacker board, and 1/4" firring strips (plywood I cut), so the two pretty much matched up (this was for a tub, not pan, but same issue). Then the tile of course set out from that, but not too bad with the mortar (~1/16"+). Used a bullnose finish piece at the edges, and looks great.
smith snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

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Oh and when I started tiling, I drew a level line about 1 ft up from edge of tub, screwed a level support base for the tile (1x2) all along the edge, and tiled that first, and tiled up to the ceiling (or whereever your top edge is). Then removed the support strip,and used the blue tape to support the last 2 rows of tile. Get your measurements correct for the support strip, and you shouldn't have to cut the last row of tiles (too much). Oh, and some might say different, but the 1/4" hardibacker is plenty stiff and rigid for wall use (according to two tile pros I talked to-that is all they use), and is soooo much easier to work with than anything else out there. It has held up fine in my application for 5 years. 16" on center is OK I think, for verticle support studs. They also reccommend horizontal support at the edges. Stay away from the Durock. Messy, and freakin HEAVY.
smith snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

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You can put a flashing over the shower pan lip ( like a Z bar) The Backer should be the same thickness as the sheet rock. Your sheet rock should be 1/2 " They make a 1/2" backer board. Also make sure your shower pan is level, check the floor for level or you first row of tile will look bad .
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Guys, thanks for the responses. I did find this very good explaination on John Bridge's site.
http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t !238&highlight=tile+shower+flange
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Yeah thats right. I stopped the hardibacker 1" or so above the edge of the tub flange, and then the tile goes down to ~1/8" from tub edge, and calk.
smith snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t !238&highlight=tile+shower+flange
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Thanks Chester. You know, it really didn't occur to me, until I started looking at the pan. I thought to myself, wait now, if the backboard extends beyond the flange, and I have to fur the studs, the drywall will protrude from the rest of the surrounding drywall.
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well I actually did "fur the studs", because I used 1/4" hardibacker. It's a trade-off, since 1/4" is cheaper, much lighter, and easier to work with (I was able to use a jigsaw to cut it for plumbing cutouts and such, using a steel blade-although they didn't last too long), but..I had to fur the studs.
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