Help - one zone not heating - Oil Fire Heat base board.

This morning, I confirmed one out of 3 zones, in the house is not heating. I tapped the plastic thermostat cover on the wall and the needle moved from 68-70 to 60 - 62.
Also I heard once in a while the oil fire burner starting up and then abruptly stopping. But the other 2 zones are working good.
I moved the thermostat control lever from low(56 ?) to high(80), I heard again the burner starting, then stopped immediately in 30 seconds or less. Normally each start and stop cycle will take about 2-3 minutes.
Where might be the problem? Is there anything I can do before calling the service to identify the point of failure? Iam also pretty handy, so if something need to be replaced, I can do it myself to save some money for Christmas.
Appreciate any help.
Sam.
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If it's only one zone gone cold, it's likely the zone valve.
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or the pump....do you have separate pumps (typically large round, red things hanging off the pipes, with an electrical feed) for each zone?

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Also very possible. I've seen booster pumps for long pipe runs. Installed a couple.
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You mean the motorised zone valves, Yes I have 3, one for each zone, with wires attached to them. Its rectangular boxes, with Honeywell name on it. With white Aluminum body thou. Is that the one or the circulatory pump on the return main ?
TIA.

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Hi Stormin, hope you are having a nice day
On 18-Dec-03 At About 01:00:05, Stormin Mormonn wrote to Stormin Mormonn Subject: Re: Help - one zone not heating - Oil Fire Heat base board.
SM> If it's only one zone gone cold, it's likely the zone valve.
Here you go jumping to conclusions again without any info. you don't even know what kind of system he has. even if you did I doubt you could correctly answer any of his questions as you are totally clueless.
-=> HvacTech2 <=-
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I thought this information will be useful for further trouble shooting and diagnosis of the problem.
1. Its a Raised-Ranch type house (basement and 1st level). 2. Basement is 600sqft. 1st level is 1200sqft. 3. Burner in the basement. 4. 2 zones - 2 thermostat control (Heating only regular box type) on the wall in 1st level. 1 zone for 3 bedrooms and 1 bathroom. 1 zone for Kitchen, dining and drawinghall. 5. 1 zone - 1 thermostat control (Heating only honeywell - Classic type) in basement. It includes Familyroom and 1 bathroom. 6. Currently the zone in the 1st level bedrooms is not working. One for kitchen, dining, drawing are working. Also basement zone working. 7. The bedroom zone, thermostat, I set it at 75&#9675;F, the burner kicksin in few seconds but turned off itself in lessthan 30 seconds. When I touch the baseboard I felt a very slight warmth. Normally it should run for 2-3 minutes for the room to warmup. But its not happening now.
Appreciate any help.
TIA
Sam.
snipped-for-privacy@freeddns.org (sams) wrote in message

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OH. A "drawinghall..." So that's what it is LOL...
Do you have 1,2, or 3 circulators? Zone valves? Do you have one of those fancy "multi-zone" electronic control relay boxes, or was all this wired in the standard fashion?
If you've 3 circulaters, I'd say you have a bad one.
If you have 2 circulators and 2 zone valves, or 1 circulator and 3 zone valves, I'd say you have a bad zone valve - because the t-stat calling for heat on the "bad" zone signals it's zone valve to open. It does, (electrically) which in turn signals the circulator to turn on, it does, which causes a little water to start the rounds and the boiler fires due to the rush of cold water entering, and the loss of heated water into the zone... but the opening of the zone valve continues instead of stopping where it should, closing off the zone, and ending the rush of cool water, which shuts off the burner...
Try this:
Turn on ONLY the "bad" zone, and see if you hear a circulater running, but get no heat from the zone... if that's the case it's a 99% chance you got a bad zone valve.
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Iam going to put the bad zone valve switch to manual - Open. And hoping any one of the zone when kicksin, will get the bad zone heated.
Hope this works till I get the service on scheduled time, which is after the heating season is over.
Pls let me know if this will cause any overload or problem to the system.
TIA
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When placed in manual - it's an option there for diagnosis and in the event of thermostat failure. It's not a "wait till spring" issue. If you have a service contract - get service NOW -why wait until after the heating season is over?
After the ZV is placed in manual it will stay there indefinately UNLESS the T'stat is OK and it calls for heat - when that happens the ZV pops out of "manual" and closes after the call for heat ends.
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If it sometimes works with your themostat at 90, why isnt it the thermostat.. Do a simple test. Swap Thermostats. You have 3 Right.
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I replaced the thermostat in question and it didnt work either. I find the Honeywell Zone valve V8043E1012 (Motorized valve) 24V Normally closed might be the one to be blamed. Anyone have instructions or how to replace this motorized valve without breaking the line or draining the system?
Appreciate any help...
Sam
snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (m Ransley) wrote in message

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If you get an exact replacement, you may be able to swap out the guts of the valve. I was able to do this on my upstairs, 3rd zone.
-- Best Regards, Dennis J Sunday Home Inspection Systems Www.homeinspectionsystems.com

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Thank you. I replaced the zone valve power head (motor + end switch). Now they are all working well as before. Also replaced the old thermostat with new digital 5+2 day program.
Thanks for all who share their ideas.
Sam.
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Hi sams, hope you are having a nice day
On 17-Dec-03 At About 07:06:07, sams wrote to All Subject: Help - one zone not heating - Oil Fire Heat base board.
s> From: snipped-for-privacy@freeddns.org (sams)
s> This morning, I confirmed one out of 3 zones, in the house is not s> heating. I tapped the plastic thermostat cover on the wall and the s> needle moved from 68-70 to 60 - 62.
s> Also I heard once in a while the oil fire burner starting up and then s> abruptly stopping. But the other 2 zones are working good.
s> I moved the thermostat control lever from low(56 ?) to high(80), I s> heard again the burner starting, then stopped immediately in 30 s> seconds or less. Normally each start and stop cycle will take about s> 2-3 minutes.
s> Where might be the problem? Is there anything I can do before calling s> the service to identify the point of failure? Iam also pretty s> handy, so if something need to be replaced, I can do it myself s> to save some money for Christmas.
s> Appreciate any help.
There is no way anyone can help you unless we know a lot more about what you have. is it a forced air zoned system, or a boiler with 3 zones? what kind of control system is it?
-=> HvacTech2 <=-
.. URA Redneck if you hold a frog and _it_ worries about getting warts.
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