help on soldering

I told you yesterday when to apply the solder. You just touch it and if it flows, it flows. If not. wait. Sounds like you are overheating now.

Reply to
Edwin Pawlowski
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Not sure if this is you problem, but you should be using acid type flux for plumbing. Do not use the rosin type flux which is for electronic circuits.

This may not be proper technique but this is what I do: I apply solder to the joint when the metal joint is hot enough to melt the solder - not just the torch flame. That said, while heating, I am constantly testing every 2 or 3 seconds by moving the flame away (flame on pipe but away from joint) for half a second and touching the solder to the joint until I get to the point where the pipe is melting the solder. At the point where the solder starts flowing I just torch everything and feed solder until it looks like solder has flowed all around and the joint is not taking any more - solder is dripping off the pipe. I probably use more solder than is needed.

Kevin

Reply to
Kevin Ricks

Wrong. It needs to be smooth and shiny. Rough surfaces are a recipe for poor joints.

Wrong again -- no requirement that the flux be waterbased.

Nope. The *solder* will suddenly be drawn into the joint...

And wrong yet again. *Never* suddenly cool a hot joint -- that can cause the joint to crack.

Then of course there's the question of how you propose to dip a pipe into a bucket of water...

Better stick to giving advice on topics you actually know something about. Soldering copper pipes is not in that category.

Reply to
Doug Miller

Clean it. It may not be necessary, but it takes only about ten seconds. No point whatever in not doing it.

Flux both the pipe and the valve.

That's not helping you. You can solder valves with propane, but it's a *lot* easier with MAPP. It takes a *long* time to get a valve hot enough with propane.

You didn't apply nearly enough heat to the valve. With a propane torch, it can take several minutes to get a valve body hot enough to solder, *long* past the point at which the flux begins to boil.

It's real simple: when the fitting is hot enough to melt solder, then it's hot enough to make the joint.

Yes, but you need to be more patient. It takes a *lot* longer to heat up a valve body with propane than it does to heat up a coupling or elbow.

Reply to
Doug Miller

Thanks everybody for the help, finally I have succeeded and have solered the brass valve for my garden hose. There were 3 things I did differently:

  1. I also polished the "diameter" edges of valve and copper pipe along with joint surface
  2. apply more flux than I did before
  3. stop heating when solder starts melting

I think that step 3 is more important. Since I heard so many things about "propane torch" is not hot enough, I guess that I overheated most of times, and each time I noticed the black thingy. I guess that overheating will prevent capillary action to suceed(my personal opionion). Anyway, thanks so much for so many kind advices and now I consider myself a "half" plumber now.

Reply to
wenmang

No, not shiny clean, the surface should be roughened a bit like with sandpaper. CY: I've always done shiny clean.

Then wipe on waterbase flux on all contact areas to be joined. The brass fittings will require a LOT more heat than copper to get what you want done. It's not welding, but it is significantly hotter than simple copper work. CY: Same temp, but it requires much more torch action to get the valve to that temp. So, it's not signifigantly hotter in that it's the same temperature.

Remarkably, the flux will suddenly be drawn in the void between the parts, and you'll know it worked. CY: I apply the flux before the heat. The flux isn't suddenly drawn in. I put the flux there.

Be careful not to move the parts when hot, or the solder joint can be broken. CY: yes,t hat's good advice.

Rather, dip in a bucket of water or hose the parts off to quickly cool the finished joint. CY: I wouldn't want to dip a solder joint in a bucket of water -- that would be moving it. However, I might apply a wet rag to the joint and let the wet rag boil and steam. With most fittings, I just walk away and let it cool on its own. With a valve, it's a good idea to keep the valve cool with a wet rag (small towel). So as not to damage the parts inside the valve. But for couplers or elbows, let em cool slowly on their own.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Heat the side of the fitting closest to you. Apply the solder from the very first moment you start heating. When the fitting is just warm enough, the solder will flow.

Sounds like you've overheated the fitting, and applied the solder too late.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Wouldn't you risk cracking the solder and/or deforming the pipe from rapid cooling of the hot joint? Myself, being the MASTER plumber I think I am (honey where's that shutoff again???) would do what you suggest and walk away and let air take care of the rest.

Reply to
Eigenvector

With an elbow or coupler, it's just copper. On the other hand, a valve has a plastic ball, or a rubber faucet washer. In those case, it's best not to get the valve cooking hot. So the wet rag is more benefit (keeping valve cool) than risk of the solder.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

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