[SOLVED] HELP - Atlantic Suitcase Screw Removal

[Tom Williams]

I have some older Atlantic two wheel rolling suitcases in need of wheel replacement. There are what appears to be phillips head screws on the outside of the suitcase that go into in attachment inside, behind the lining.

I can get to the attachment, and when trying to remove the screws I fail. I can hold part of the attachment with plyers and the screw rotates, but won't back out. I have tried pulling on the attachment while turning the screw, which should help with stripped threads, but no removal.

Does anybody have any suggestions.

Thanks,

Tom Williams tomwms at comcast (dot) net

[Robert Macy]

I've worked with these people over the years, and find them very responsive.

Travelpro International, Inc. [phone] PO Box 810755 Boca Raton, FL 33481-0755

[clare]

They are philips head rivets. Another smart idea from those clever chinese.

[nestork]

I'd expect that most dedicated luggage stores also repair luggage.

Instead of fighting with this, I'd just talk to any luggage store in your area and ask about those rivets. If it doesn't seem like a big deal to them, I'm thinking they have a way of replacing those rivets easily, and if you buy the new wheels from them, they might just install them for you free of charge while you wait.

[toolworker]

replying to nestork , toolworker wrote: For the record -

Ignore those Philips head rivets.

Unzip the lining. There is what looks like a flat metal bearing in a channel at the inside of the wheel axle. Pull it out of the channel with a long nose pliers. This exposes a real Philips head screw which is the wheel axle. Unscrew and pull it out and the wheel can be rmoved.

[Charlie17T]

replying to Tom Williams, Charlie17T wrote: I dont' think you have phillips screws but rather rivits that are either peaned over, or have a lock mechanism on the inside. You can either drill them out, or pull off the self locking washer on the inside, and then take the pieces to Lowes or Home depot to get stainless steel screw, nut and lock washer to put back together. If you are having to replace the wheel, and have access to the inside of the wheel well where the wheel shaft goes through the corner wheel housing, I would strong advise that you purchase a few fluid ounces of high strength two part epoxy, mix it up, and pour into the wheel well to create a more solid support housing. This will depend on the type of corner wheel well you have, and if the shaft is fixed and not rotating. I re=engineered my wheels with all staineless steel screws, new nylong roller blade wheels with low friction ball bearing, and used a stainless steel bolt as the new shaft. I had to design a temporary shaft tube, that could be used to keep the epoxy from leaking out of the hole where I put the new stainelss steel bolt. One I poured the epoxy into the wheel well, put the new stainless steel wheel shaft in place along with the new roller, the result was an extremely strong roller bearing system, much better than the original design. The original design of the wheel is not so good... as I'd had wheel failures on both over time... so I redesigned the system after understanding the weakness in the design. Once complete the result was an extremley strong set of wheel that will not break apart since you have the added strong epoxy plastic that replaces the thin housing material, without the solld inside material for support. If you can see my email shoot me a note and I'll send pics.

[DerbyDad03]

I don't think you know how to read dates on threads

[Whatever]

replying to DerbyDad03, Whatever wrote: No need to be rude. Besides, thanks to Google. threads can live forever. I just came across this and found Charlie17T's reply very helpful, 2 years after the prior post.

[Alex]

replying to toolworker, Alex wrote: Thanks! That was the correct answer!!

[Charlie17T]

replying to nestork, Charlie17T wrote: THX. I re-engineered both entire wheel systems. I'd had the wheels replaced once before and they lasted a year. The design is poor, the shaft is plastic, and the housing in hollow plastic. So I bought two roller blade wheels drilled holes to insert a S.S. Bolt and Lock Cap Nut to become the new axle, then poured epoxy into the space surrounding the new bolt (now axle) and that provided me with an ultra strong and sturdy encasement for the shaft... this is much better than the plastic insert shaft. (I also screwed into the wheel support housing a few S.S. screws to add additional support after the epoxy hardened.

[michealespinola]

replying to toolworker, michealespinola wrote: My luggage has a wooden plate the partial blocks the screw from coming out. I cant seem to figure out how to remove this plate first. Do you have any suggestions?

[Tekkie®]

Oren posted for all of us...

I think there is more than one screw loose here and it ain't Oren.

[Ann]

Was able to expose the wheel axle and unscrew, but there isn't enough clearance to remove the wheel axle.

[toolworker]

It's been a long time, but IIRC once the screw is out, the wheel can be pried out. The axle is part of the wheel and is probably stuck in the housing. Put a screwdriver behind the wheel and pry it out.

[michealespinola]

I concur (its been two years now). I managed to pry mine out as well, and successfully replaced my wheels. It was an awkward procedure, but it worked and went back together easier than taking it apart. I haven't had any problems at all since the replacement.

[toolworker]

Or pry the sides of the housing apart slightly and the wheel should come out. Whichever is easier.

[PeteD]

Advice from toolworker is spot on. Removed both wheels as described. Bought 2 rollerblade wheels for $6 each from a sporting goods store (brought old wheels w/ me to get correct size). Popped out bearings from old wheels with a screwdriver & put them into the rollerblade wheels, perfect fit. Installed new wheels, now better than new!