HELP - Atlantic Suitcase Screw Removal

I have some older Atlantic two wheel rolling suitcases in need of wheel replacement. There are what appears to be phillips head screws on the outside of the suitcase that go into in attachment inside, behind the lining.
I can get to the attachment, and when trying to remove the screws I fail. I can hold part of the attachment with plyers and the screw rotates, but won't back out. I have tried pulling on the attachment while turning the screw, which should help with stripped threads, but no removal.
Does anybody have any suggestions.
Thanks,
Tom Williams tomwms at comcast (dot) net
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I've worked with these people over the years, and find them very responsive.
Travelpro International, Inc.         (800) 741-7471 PO Box 810755 Boca Raton, FL 33481-0755 http://www.atlanticluggage.com
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They are philips head rivets. Another smart idea from those clever chinese.
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I'd expect that most dedicated luggage stores also repair luggage.
Instead of fighting with this, I'd just talk to any luggage store in your area and ask about those rivets. If it doesn't seem like a big deal to them, I'm thinking they have a way of replacing those rivets easily, and if you buy the new wheels from them, they might just install them for you free of charge while you wait.
--
nestork


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replying to nestork , toolworker wrote: For the record -
Ignore those Philips head rivets.
Unzip the lining. There is what looks like a flat metal bearing in a channel at the inside of the wheel axle. Pull it out of the channel with a long nose pliers. This exposes a real Philips head screw which is the wheel axle. Unscrew and pull it out and the wheel can be rmoved.
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replying to Tom Williams, Charlie17T wrote: I dont' think you have phillips screws but rather rivits that are either peaned over, or have a lock mechanism on the inside. You can either drill them out, or pull off the self locking washer on the inside, and then take the pieces to Lowes or Home depot to get stainless steel screw, nut and lock washer to put back together. If you are having to replace the wheel, and have access to the inside of the wheel well where the wheel shaft goes through the corner wheel housing, I would strong advise that you purchase a few fluid ounces of high strength two part epoxy, mix it up, and pour into the wheel well to create a more solid support housing. This will depend on the type of corner wheel well you have, and if the shaft is fixed and not rotating. I re=engineered my wheels with all staineless steel screws, new nylong roller blade wheels with low friction ball bearing, and used a stainless steel bolt as the new shaft. I had to design a temporary shaft tube, that could be used to keep the epoxy from leaking out of the hole where I put the new stainelss steel bolt. One I poured the epoxy into the wheel well, put the new stainless steel wheel shaft in place along with the new roller, the result was an extremely strong roller bearing system, much better than the original design. The original design of the wheel is not so good... as I'd had wheel failures on both over time... so I redesigned the system after understanding the weakness in the design. Once complete the result was an extremley strong set of wheel that will not break apart since you have the added strong epoxy plastic that replaces the thin housing material, without the solld inside material for support. If you can see my email shoot me a note and I'll send pics.
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On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 12:44:05 PM UTC-4, Charlie17T wrote:

I don't think you know how to read dates on threads

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replying to DerbyDad03, Whatever wrote: No need to be rude. Besides, thanks to Google. threads can live forever. I just came across this and found Charlie17T's reply very helpful, 2 years after the prior post.
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