Heat Pump

[Mark]

Hi, I have been in construction since 1975. I buy and remodel houses on my own now. I like to do everything I can and enjoy learning new stuff. I have a guy that supplies all my HVAC equipment and I do all the installation and he does the freon hook-up. His eysight has been giving him trouble and this last job he burned up the valves. Ok , everyone makes mistakes, no problem. Yet he won't admit he does anything wrong, blames it on the valves. He came out and grudgingly replaced them and recharged the system. He got it too hot AGAIN and had a leak in the joint closer to the compressor. Then he vented the freon... He fixed that and got done too quick. It still don't seem to work right. I don't see how he could have done it right so quickly and he didn't weigh in the R-22 the last time. I think moisture in it. Do I need to cut my losses and find another tech. Any here in Chattanooga?

Mark

Goodman, 13 seer, 2 1/2 ton lowside temp 65 degrees Highside pressure: 225 Low side pressure: 55 to start; then climbs to 75 Ambiant temp 80

[stretch]

Mark

Hire someone to do the whole thing. I wouldn't touch a job on that basis. From what info you provide, I can't tell what is wrong, but with you doing most of the work, you will only get a low end contractor to do the rest. Pay someone with all the tools to do it right. You are not going to saave money in the long run doing it your way.

Stretch

[Mark]

I will first gain some knowledge about the problem so I do not go into it blind and become a victim to another unscrupulous 'so called craftsman with attitude'. Seems to be an abundance of them doesn't there.

Just found out my son is coming back from Iraq soon on leave. He went to school for it, I'll ask him.

Thanks

[TURTLE]

This is Turtle.

Ok I will give you this one.

With the info you give here it is hard to try to tell anything but just a guess. Now if everything was perfectly installed like manual D and J done and followed to a Tee , the inside match by goodman match up chart which says the inside should be a U-35 with gas furnace, AR-36, or a AR-42 and have 7/8'' and 3/8'' tubing sets. Also you pull a 300 micro vacuum on the system every time you opened it. Now if you did all this perfectly to a Tee. i really think you did not do this but anyway , I will say this.

i would guess you need to pull the 5 ci. in. black burnout liquid line drier inside the condenser for it seems you have a restriction in it or other places with extra silver solder in the liquid line at the flow rater of the evaperator coil with all going on. The Slow rise of the suction pressure is this point as to say this.

Now if a lot of the above about the unit was not installed correctly, was true and you for got to tell about it. I would have to say it could be anything.

Calling shots over the internet without you knowing what we want to know about. It's sure is a good shot in the dark to get a answer. I have atleast 25 readings or things that i want to know to get a good answer and it takes a lot of my tools to get those answers. i think your at this point now. If everything went well you can install these units and have no trouble but if something goes wrong , then comes the need of the tools and readings.

TURTLE

[Mark]

Thanks, It is as I said. I seek a knowledge base to work from. I set and wired the equipment and ran the duct only; things that Keith was too lazy to do 'right'. I see now he was probably more consistant in his laxness than I thought. I regret dealing with him, but I really was trying to help him out. I only saved $800 but I wanted it done right more than the money, and I knew I would insulate everything properly and make sure the things under the house were right. I have a certification to work with refrigerant but only in a maintainence capacity (608 T-1 & 609). I know my limitations, so I never intended to do this myself.

[dna0603]

I'm in Baltimore, MD and need to have my 19 year old heat pump replaced. It was put in the home as the original unit. The unit quit on providing AC this past summer and probably is on its last legs. Not

as efficient as a new model etc etc... Not even thinking about repairing this since it is so old.

I'm a fairly new home owner and have not repaired anything of this magnitude in my home. I'm looking for estimates on getting the work done for my townhome. 2 floors and a basement, approximately 2100 sq ft total. Would there be a need to replace the indoor furnace unit as well as the heat pump? Would it be advisable on a 19 year old home? Any "ballpark" figures as to how much this will cost? Heat pump alone and then heat pump with furnace?

As these sales reps come to my home:

1) What should I be asking of them? 2) What should be included in the package? 3) Energy Bill... do they know which units are applicable. (I have been unable to find information about this on the web or on the IRS.gov

website.) Any pointers would be appreciated.

[Frank Boettcher]

[Bob]

With a heat pump, you must replace both the inside and outside units.

[Stretch]

With a standard heat pump that uses strip heat in the indoor unit, replace both the outside and indoor units. If you have an "add on" heat pump that uses a gas or oil furnace for auxiliary heat, replace the outdoor init and indoor coil. The furnace may or may not need replaced.

Prices vary, depends on local labor rate, taxes, cost of rent, etc. No way anyone can give you a ball park for your area over the internet.

Get a Manual J load calculation done. Also they should measure the existing air flow or do a Manual D duct design. Size varys with climate, number and size of windows and direction they face. Also insulation values in walls, ceiling and floor.

My 2000 sq. ft. ranch in Myrtle Beach, SC hasa single 2-ton system, but I have only a little glass, (average amount for 20 year old house). Don't let them size it by the square feet of floor area.

Stretch

[SQLit]

Pick the guy that does the calculations.

19 years, ya replacement definitely.

I typically do not reuse line sets, one the newer units need bigger pipes, the other issue is you really can not be sure that the line set is clean. This can jack up the price.

You say furnace and then heat pump. If you have a heat pump now putting in a furnace with the required air and vents might be a LOT more than a heat pump replacement. Can't see it from here.

New regs say now the bottom end is SEER, 13 they should be quoting at least that.

Call your utilities and see what they are currently rebating, Check your state government for the same.

Insulation is still cheaper than almost any other method of saving on the monthly bill.

[Dr. Hardcrab]

The first thing you should do (and the BEST thing to do) is to ask your friends, neighbors, co-workers, etc. who they would use, and then get at LEAST three contractors to come out and give you a quote (not an estimate) to change out your system. Then go from there.....

[buffalobill]

[dna0603]

Thanks for all the replies... very helpful.

Now that I'm looking for dealers in my area... I'm going direct to the respective manufacturer's websites and getting names from there... Any thoughts on brand names to definitely consider or to definitely avoid. I'm looking for a middle end unit.

Carrier Lennox Trane York Luxaire Rheem Heil Waterfurnace

[Dr. Hardcrab]

Well, I bet the Waterfurnace will be the most expensive.....

;-]

[Bob]

Do not assume that a mfg web site will contain the names of quality contractors. Ask friends and relatives. I like Rheem/Ruud.

[Lee]

I am no expert but had a Trane installed in 1986 and it is still running and doing a great job. Location Florida which means it is either heating or cooling 24/7 over a period of almost 20 years. Leave the decision in your hand!

Lee

[Bob]

[Lee]

Are you saying it is not anymore?

Lee

[Bob]

[Dick]

So I guess bottom line is that there is no company today that makes a heat pump that is any good? Right. We had a new Trane installed a year ago, and it has been running every day since without a single problem. Apparently, we can expect it to fall apart any day now.