Heat/air question again

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If that's the only need for AC, make a "play room" on the shade side, and cut a hole in the wall for a window AC.
To cool the rest of the area so you can work, the three ton unit should do the job. It's only a couple hours one or two days a week, so the energy bill won't kill you too badly.
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*As I understand it, the medium that is used to charge a system that old is being phased out. I've been told by some A/C guys that it is anticipated that it will be real expensive soon. One guy told me that he is saving anything that he can reclaim out of an old system. Aside from the other parts that you be replacing with difficulty the gas inside may cost an arm and a leg.
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wrote:

Don't walk, but run from that deal!
80's ?! Do the job right, perhaps even get tax credit, rebates from your power company and coupons from a local AC company.
My HVAC is 1995 ?. The freon is/has gone way-up since January, so I'm told.
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That is the first thing I'd check out. Given the tax credits, rebates from the utility, manufacturer's etc, a new system may cost a lot less than you think it would. Factor in some electric savings depending on how much you use it and it could be a better deal.
Another thing. With a shop AC unit I would probably want it rigged for both temp and humidity. There could be periods when it gets too humid inside and you would want it to come on to prevent tools from getting rusty, etc.

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For a nominal $100, maybe less, you can easily find a 240 V big old functional window unit on Craig's list, local installer's warehouse, whatever. Since you have studs showing, simply frame an opening for the unit and install with appropriate outside bracing. Finish the walls, ceiling, with as much insulation as you can and you will have a nice comfortable shop all summer long. Trying to make a whole house AC unit look good is more $$ and hassle than it is worth, unless you want to subsidize your sheet metal shop. I did the window type unit in my garage and it looks neat and tidy. Even painted the outer part to match the vinyl siding courtesy the paint matching wizards at Menards. A cool shop in the summer keeps rust off your tools and lets you accomplish much more besides.
Joe
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I have corregated metal siding. Do you really thing a window unit would cool a 30x30 with 10 foot ceilings?
Update:
I found a 2005 2 ton heat pump/air conditioner package system for 500 dollars delivered to me.
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wrote:

That sounds more like you
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On Apr 15, 2:58pm, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

I think running the grill straight in front of the unit to the inside of the building is the way to go. Easiest would be to install some sort of duct ont he outside up to the attic then through the corregated metal into vents in the ceiling.
Is there much different performance or duct cost wise in running it on the outside of the building verus in?
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wrote:

It depends on how well the chase you build around the duct is insulated
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On Apr 15, 10:27pm, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

I think a chase would look odd, are you meaning just a square up the entire building covering the pipe? Cant you get outdoor rated insulated pipe?
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wrote:

You can get anything but not cheap.
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Your cheapest and most effective solution is going to be to put the duct inside the perimeter walls. The inlet/outlet of a package unit is at the same location. If you run the outlet up the outside then you will also need to extend the inlet over to the wall. You will need to "weather proof" both. Package units are typically installed flush against the perimeter wall. Again, a corner would be the obvious best location as that allows you to box in easily. You can make it more complicated but I gathered from most of your earlier posts that cost was a significant factor. As you make the package unit installation more expensive then you might be better of with a traditional split system.
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