Having problems with Amana refrigerator. Please help!!!

[Jack]

This is a model with bottom freezer (model number BX22A2W). It doesn't seem to be cooling very well. It actually seemed to stop cooling at all for a while. Stuff started thawing out. But then it started working again, however the air doesn't seem very cold. Let me back up, first (yesterday) it seemed that the top part (refrigerator part) seem to not be cooling, but the freezer seemed to be working. Now neither seems to be cooling well. The air feels cool not cold in the freezer compartment. Can anyone offer their ideas as to what is wrong? Also, can someone tell me how to remove the ice maker from the freezer so that I can get the back panel off? In particular, I am concerned about the tube and connector at the very back of the ice maker that looks like they are coming out of the back freezer wall.

Thanks for any help

[RS]

Icemaker: it is held on by 3 screws--2 on top and 1 beneath. Unscrew them and unplug the plug at the rear of the icemaker.

As for the cooling: Check in the refrig section under the crisper drawers. There should be a group of holes on the floor of the liner---that's the return grille. Just about the right size for a slice of cheese to block it. Make sure it is clear.

If that's clear, make sure the fan is running in the freezer.

If it is, then check:

-to make sure the condenser coil under the refrig is clean and free of lint, dust, etc.

-that the condenser fan is running (the fan under the refrig at the rear)

-behind the wall in the freezer for ice. Some of these models had problems with ice buildup in the return duct leading to the refrigerator. There is an addon heater kit to correct this--it is available from your refrig service man.

It also could be that the defrost system is not functioning properly. If the evap coil in the freezer is loaded with white frost, you may have a failed defrost component. You can let it thaw (a hair dryer speeds that up) and call your refrig service guy.

It could also be (but not likely since you state the frz has problems too) the damper in the refrig compartment.

[jeff]

Hi,

Above is the most common way to remove an icemaker, the water line feed will stay in place and the icemaker will come out seperately.

Some common trouble makers linked below...

jeff.

Appliance Repair Aid

[Jack]

Some additional information. The heater element has 30 ohm resistance, is this normal? The thermostat (at room temperature has about 56K ohm. When I turned the defrost timer the heater seemed to come on but it didn't seem to stay on that long. Maybe 3-5 min (sorry didn't time it). Also today, the freezer started freezing again and making ice.

Finally, the ice buildup I saw looked more like solid ice not snow and it was mainly on the top right side of the coils, closest to the thermostat. What do you guys think now?

Thanks.

Also, any recommendations on how to keep the door seals from stretching out of shape? It seems the action of opening and closing the door over time makes the seals stretch.

[RS]

The defrost thermostat should be either 0 ohms when cold (closed) or infinite when warm (open). It is just a snap-action switch. Either it's closed or it is open.

If the heater came on, it sounds like both the stat and the heater may be OK. Just for kicks, check the evaporator coil frost pattern after the machine has run a while. It should be even from top to bottom. If it isn't, there may be a sealed system problem.

Take a small amount of Vaseline and LIGHTLY coat the hinge-side of both gaskets. That allows them to slide across the metal refrig cabinet instead of being dragged across.

[jeff]

Hello,

A ball of ice is not a good sign normally. Check the evaporator coil frost pattern after the refrigerator has run a bit. It should be fairly even from top to bottom with no bare coils If it isn't, there may be a sealed system problem.

Defrost thermostat should have full continuity ( closed 0 ohm ) when cold or open continuity ( ~ ohm ) when warm.

Heater works then it should be ok.

jeff.

Appliance Repair Aid

[Jack]

I am still having problems with this fridge. I replaced the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer. When I have looked at the coils there is no excessive frost built up on them. The fan that blows up to the refridgerator part is turning and not blocked. The freezer part seems to be working fine, it just that the fridge portion is not cool enough.

Please advise!!

Thanks!

[jeff]

Hi,

What did they look like?....ball of ice, 1/2 bare 1/2 frosted, full even frost on all coils? Light is going off in the fresh food section when the door is closed?

jeff.

Appliance Repair Aid

[Stormin Mormonn]

Sounds like slow fan, or maybe air circulation blocked some how.

[Mad Mac]

There was a known problem with these units about a year or so ago, which involved freezing of the air ducts between the freezer and refrigerator conpartments - I'm no longer in the business, so going from memory here. Any of the current guys (Jeff/Dan/CB) know some more details?

[jeff]

You thinking of the top freezer ice kits MM?

?

jeff.

Appliance Repair Aid

[Jack]

Thanks for the responses so far. I haven't opened the back panel lately to check for ice, I will try to do that this weekend. I am not sure how fast the fan is supposed to be going but it looked like it was turning pretty fast to me when I looked last. In addition, I can feel air coming out of the vent in the fridge part (although it is doesn't seem as cold as it should be). I do have a problem with the drain tube because melted ice is leaking into the freezer and refreezing at the bottom. Could this in anyway cause my fridge section not to be cold enough? Could it possibly be the temperature dial in the fridge? What exactly happens when you turn the dial up or down?

thanks again!

[Dan O.]

That would be a good place to start.

All the cold air in the whole appliance is generated in the freezer and only part of that air is circulated into the fridge compartment to cool there. (not technically correct but you get the idea).

Hence the air going into the fridge compartment should be the same temperature as the freezer air. The important part is the

*circulation*!

Yes, frozen drain tubes frequently block air circulation between the fridge and freezer compartments but would depend on the actual design of your model.

It depends. If it actuates an 'air damper' which controls air flow between the fridge and freezer, it could.

If it is the main electrical temperature control, that only turns the compressor on and off so it is were faulty, it would effect the temperatures in both compartments.

Dan O.

- Appliance411.com

=Ð~~~~~~

[jeff]

Hi,

Good plan :)

If the ice is building up high enough it can choke off the air flow into the fresh food section....but the air flow would diminish rather than get warmer.

If the refrigerator is running more than it is off the cold control in the freezer may be ok, the one if the FF section is usually an air damper ( opens larger or smaller ) for more or less air flow....this again can restrict air flow but normally won't make air flow warmer than normal.

Turns on and off the compressor and fans.

Once oyu have had a peek inside the FZ section we may learn some more :)

jeff.

Appliance Repair Aid

[Jack]

More info. Also keep in mind my freezer is on the bottom.

There were some ice crystals on the vent openings in the freezer. Not enough to block the air flow in the freezer. When I took the back panel off there was a very light coating of frost on the fins, nothing like any of the pictures I had seen of problem units. The fan is moving freely and fast. One thing that I did notice last night (I didn't take it apart until this morning) that there was NO (or at least none I could feel) air coming from the vent in the FF section while the unit was running. In addition, right after a defrost cycle it seemed I could feel some air coming from the FF vent. I had mention in another thread that I must have a drain problem because melted water is running into bottom of the freezer and refreezing there. My theory at this point is this; because the drain is blocked water has built up (and frozen) enough to completely block the gap in the back panel (btw there is a little 1" lip that stick out below the back panel presumably to hold the melted water while it drains). Therefore the fan cannot suck enough air to blow up the back of the fridge to the FF section. This would explain why after the defrost cycle a small gap was made in this ice and some air was coming through the FF vent. I tried to clear out the ice frozed under the fins (three cut fingers can attest to that :)). Does my theory make sense? How can I take the coils, out (or at least move it enough) to get to the drain tube to clear it out? Or is this done by turning the fridge on its side and going at it from the bottom?

Thoughts?

[e-mail] (jeff) wrote in message news:...

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[jeff]

Hi,

An over night defrost would clear out any ice that may be where it should be....unplug and leave doors open....have a few towels ready to catch any drips.

The evaporator coil is held with plastic clips to the back wall, it can be moved forward only...*carefully*!!...and recliped back into those plastic clips.

I usually take a wire or such and run it down through the drain....or a hose with a pressurized tank to blow out the drain....don't often move the coils just incase thye get damaged....could also work backwards from the pan end of the drain system.

jeff.

Appliance Repair Aid

[Jack]

Does my theory make sense to explain why enough air is not reaching the FF section?

[Stormin Mormonn]

I'm with you, chief. Clear the vents, run some hot water down the drain.

Also, the evap fan may be sluggish.

[jeff]

Hi,

Checked off air flow from ice getting into the vents can happen yes. A full defrosting should prove one way or the other.

jeff.

Appliance Repair Aid

[jeff]

**Above was corrected for spelling error..."Choked off aif flow"**

jeff.