I am in the midst of a fair-sized landscaping job. (Two 4-walled
interlocking brick flower boxes, sidewalk, patio, etc.)
I am planning to buy a compactor instead of renting one because I plan a
separate job next year, so I will have ample time to compact the
existing soil (clay/sand) where I have recently dug plus perform an
unhurried job on each of the components.
I can calculate the volume of compacted gravel needed, but I need to
know the expected compaction ratio to enable me to order the correct
amount of 0 -> 3/4" compacting gravel.
It is a special mix of sizes 0 to 3/4" specifically made for compacting.
Judging from the dark grey colour, it appears to be some some sort of
basalt. (Hardness 6; slightly easier to break than granite.)
Yes, since I plan to but one, I will not be in a hurry, thus I can do it
a couple inches at a time.
But my question was how much compacting I can expect. For example, if I
buy enough uncompacted gravel for a 10" deep hole, assuming I compact it
2" at a time, how thick of a base can I expect to get?
That is probably a good idea. Compact it just prior to each component. The
reason I say this is because-not knowing where you live and time-lines the
soil may be affected by a freeze/thaw cycle or drainage.
I would ask the provider of the stone. I don't know what the ratio would be
for your area. Like Oren stated do it in 2" lifts and compact. Back fill low
areas with high areas. I believe landscapers would just use a 4" lift and
compact. Do you intend to install a concrete footer?
On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 16:37:28 -0400, Tekkie® wrote:
Yes, for the entire 5' * 3' base of a stairway (also will be the same
brand/style as the wall) as well as two 4-walled flower boxes, even
though 2 walls of each will be buried. My wife wants it that way, i.e. a
course of capstones all around each box instead of a 'drop-off' from the
sidewalk into the flowers. I know I will end up buying twice as much
bricks, but this way I can level the entire base for each flower box.
Otherwise, I would need to put other footers exactly the correct height
higher than the footers under the exposed walls in order to make the
last course match.
The concrete footers are 2' long, 15" wide, and mostly 2.5" thick. (For
about 9" to match the depth of a brick course, then tapers to 1.25" over
the other 6" of width.) I will use the thick ends to support the walls,
which will be 9" deep (3.5" height each course).
Should I use footers for the sidewalk parts as well? (Interlocking
paving bricks. No automobiles.) I'm thinking to try without, because I
can always lift out the paving tiles and dig out 2.5" of compacted
gravel to put in a layer of footers if the sidewalk ends up being too
uneven too quickly.
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