Gravel compaction ratio.

I am in the midst of a fair-sized landscaping job. (Two 4-walled interlocking brick flower boxes, sidewalk, patio, etc.)
I am planning to buy a compactor instead of renting one because I plan a separate job next year, so I will have ample time to compact the existing soil (clay/sand) where I have recently dug plus perform an unhurried job on each of the components.
I can calculate the volume of compacted gravel needed, but I need to know the expected compaction ratio to enable me to order the correct amount of 0 -> 3/4" compacting gravel.
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On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 11:16:46 -0700, Oren wrote:

It is a special mix of sizes 0 to 3/4" specifically made for compacting. Judging from the dark grey colour, it appears to be some some sort of basalt. (Hardness 6; slightly easier to break than granite.)

Yes, since I plan to but one, I will not be in a hurry, thus I can do it a couple inches at a time.
But my question was how much compacting I can expect. For example, if I buy enough uncompacted gravel for a 10" deep hole, assuming I compact it 2" at a time, how thick of a base can I expect to get?
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Mike Duffy posted for all of us...

That is probably a good idea. Compact it just prior to each component. The reason I say this is because-not knowing where you live and time-lines the soil may be affected by a freeze/thaw cycle or drainage.

I would ask the provider of the stone. I don't know what the ratio would be for your area. Like Oren stated do it in 2" lifts and compact. Back fill low areas with high areas. I believe landscapers would just use a 4" lift and compact. Do you intend to install a concrete footer?
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Tekkie

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On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 16:37:28 -0400, Tekkie® wrote:

Yes, for the entire 5' * 3' base of a stairway (also will be the same brand/style as the wall) as well as two 4-walled flower boxes, even though 2 walls of each will be buried. My wife wants it that way, i.e. a course of capstones all around each box instead of a 'drop-off' from the sidewalk into the flowers. I know I will end up buying twice as much bricks, but this way I can level the entire base for each flower box. Otherwise, I would need to put other footers exactly the correct height higher than the footers under the exposed walls in order to make the last course match.
The concrete footers are 2' long, 15" wide, and mostly 2.5" thick. (For about 9" to match the depth of a brick course, then tapers to 1.25" over the other 6" of width.) I will use the thick ends to support the walls, which will be 9" deep (3.5" height each course).
Should I use footers for the sidewalk parts as well? (Interlocking paving bricks. No automobiles.) I'm thinking to try without, because I can always lift out the paving tiles and dig out 2.5" of compacted gravel to put in a layer of footers if the sidewalk ends up being too uneven too quickly.
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