At least a tin cup.
In my shop I wear an apron. It's lead-lined and came from an x-ray lab. I
think it's bulletproof.
Just to be on the safer side, I'm going to line it with home-made ballistic
armor, that is, scraps of engineered laminate flooring.
Still, I see people on TV get ready to use a power tool, something like a
battery-operated screw-driver or an electric spoon, and they suit themselves
up like they were off to train attack dogs.
What's the worst that could happen?
As Dilios said: "Hardly, my lord, it's just an eye. The gods saw fit to
grace me with a spare."
Tell that to my 7th grade shop teacher- he made us all run out and buy
one the first week. Same store that sold the phys ed uniforms. I think
they got a kickback or something. And yes, everyone wrapped the strings
around and tied them in front.
First, depending on where you are..see if there is a WWW.CRAIGSLIST.ORG
website nearby and get the saw through "TOOLS" on the site for perhaps HALF
of what you'll pay for a new one at Sears or HD. Go look at several
tablesaws and see what the market has out there before you buy. Have the
seller crosscut and rip a piece of 2 X 4 or 2 X 6 for you and see how they
Isn't there anyone knowledgeable and handy THERE that you can ask to go
along with you when you go saw shopping ?
If not, I've had good service from DELTA table saws starting from an old
Rockwell Beaver 9" with a 1/2 hp motor (worked fine crosscutting) could
barely rip (lengthwise) a "2 by" piece of lumber. I ve upgraded to one of
the best saws on the market now, a 10" 3(real) HP Delta UNISAW with a
Biesemeyer fence. The fence alone is worth $ 300-400 ..its a beauty but you
don't need something like that. .
Second, BEWARE when comparing various saws motor HP that Sears commonly uses
'max" HP "DEVELOPED" which is the power draw/created JUST BEFORE the motor
is driven to fail...Divide the HP number they use in half to get a
realistic number. Ie. their "develops 1HP" motor is really a 1/2 hp
Finally, a lot depends on the quality of the blade. Get a good name brand
(not Harbor Freight Tools etc) carbide tip blade, up to 40 tooth for
'general' work and make sure you don't cut any staples, screws or nails in
Do be careful not to buy something that has been abused to the point
it is ready to fail. Specifically smell around the motor for burned
smells (showing it had a major overload long enough to overheat the
motor) and for other wear.
Easiest is the specification plate that *should* be found on each
unit. Figure *roughly* that 10 amps is about 1 HP for an electric
motor. (the number is less, but inefficiency in the motor and system
drive it higher). So ignore a '2.3 HP rated' sticker, and look at the
power drawn on the nameplate for a good indication of how powerful it
That said, power is not critical unless you need speed. You can cut a
lot of wood with a less powerful saw, it just takes (much) longer!
Absolutely! A good high quality blade is really important. I've used
saws with bad blades (and bought at least one for virtually nothing
because the blade so was dull that it would not cut, and the seller
didn't realize it was just a bad blade, and not the saw).
"SKIL" with one "L" is a brand name. Commonly seen at construction sites
with other brands as well like Porter-Cable. Hand-held electric circular
saw is probably what you mean, and, may even be made by SKIL. Unless you're
doing something that requires good fit and appearance of cuts, such a saw is
just fine. It all boils down to good measurements, following the measured
lines made without cutting that line. Not forcing the cut too quickly. A
very lightweight saw may try to move left and right indiscriminantly. A
dull blade takes longer and may scorch the wood. Using the right blade also
helps such as when to use a cross-cut blade, a combination blade, and a
As another poster stated, the most important part of a table saw is the
table. Actually, I'm speaking of a compound miter saw. A table saw is very
limited in lengthy cross-cuts, excellent for plywood and rips. It must
accomodate size of lumber, and must be rock solid when using the saw.
There are some reversals needed in some cuts, like a hip rafter, that some
compound miter saws can't accomodate on both sides of the cut. The bevel
only swings one way. Can be done, but not very intuitive. A 10" compound
miter saw with laser sounds adequate for most of what you're speaking of.
Get one with the laser that runs off the AC, not replaceable batteries. A
genuine table saw is best for ripping plywood and other lumber.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.