Gluing aluminum to glass

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On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 17:29:16 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour

5200 would be a poor choice. If you ever had to replace that trim again, you would have to buy a whole new door. 5200 is only for things that will NEVER need to be taken apart. Never is a long time.
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On Jul 22, 6:31 am, snipped-for-privacy@dog.com wrote:

NEVER...? When the literature refers to a permanent bond, they're talking about a permanent bond with the typical marine materials such as gelcoat and fiberglass. 5200 (if you use the recommended metal primer) is approximately twice the strength of 4200, which can present problems with delamination of gelcoat or fiberglass. Neither the glass door nor aluminum trim would delaminate so it would not be a problem. Sure it would be a bitch to get it off, but 4200 would still present problems in removal.
As I said in an earlier post, mildew is a concern in this application. 3M Marine Grade Silicone Sealant is mildew resistant, has the weakest bond if removal is a concern (still plenty strong enough for this application), the fastest tack time, is non-sag and would be a better choice than either 4200 or 5200.
R
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On Wed, 22 Jul 2009 08:58:20 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour

Never
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3M Weatherstrip adhesive might work. Any auto parts store. Think of it as contact cement for cars.
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RTV "silicon" rubber sealer works pretty well with glass. It's used to hold together glass aquariums up to a pretty good size. You have to give it time to cure but it is plenty strong.

The "kit" that stuff is sold in cost $2+ to hold about one square inch of material to your windshield.

If you have a "soft setting" epoxy, that might work about as well as the well cured silicone RTV stuff.
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On Thu, 23 Jul 2009 16:30:56 -0400, "John Gilmer"

The silicone used for aquariums is specially formulated for that task. Regular silicone will kill the fish
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the silicone used for aquariums is identical to that sold for caulking minus the mildewicides.
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On Thu, 23 Jul 2009 13:45:46 -0700, "charlie"

That sounds like "special" to me.
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http://www.thistothat.com /
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On 7/25/2009 7:45 AM Zz Yzx spake thus:

Sorry, not even close.
I notice that links to this site come up often when questions of what glue to use to glue X to Y are raised. But it's just not a very good web site.
Pity; you'd think a site called "This to That" would be a valuable resource to answer such questions. But I'd say it's like a Reader's Digest of this kind of information, meaning most of what's there is very common knowledge with little depth. A lot of it falls into the "Duh!" category.
This is their answer to what to use to glue metal to glass:
Metal to Glass For the strongest, fastest, and most invisible bond we recommend:
Loctite Impruv
If appearance isn't much of a concern, try:
J-B Weld
Maybe you are gluing a rear view mirror.
Whenever you are gluing glass you must consider the visibility of the adhesive. If the glass is translucent or transparent, you will want a glue that dries as clear as possible.
Whenever you are gluing metal it's a good idea to clean it first with steel wool or sandpaper. (Rust never sleeps.)
Before gluing any glass bond be sure that the glass is clean, free of any oil (even from your fingers) and dry.
Notice there's no mention of silicone adhesives, nor of the problems with different rates of expansion in gluing these materials.
Not very useful. Sorry.
--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

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