Gluing aluminum to glass

Al cans have a coating applied to their interior. Otherwise there would be lots of gooey leaky stuff all over the shelves at the mega mart.

Reply to
George
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The lining was a fairly recent addition. I remember the marketing hype about how it'd improve the taste of various beverages.

Reply to
mike

Considering acidic soda pop is stored in aluminum cans for months and years at a time, I wouldn't worry too much about it. That aluminum oxide layer on the surface will hold up just fine.

-- obviously you've never stored soda in cans in your pantry for 6 months to a year. i can tell you from bitter experience, that yes, they do leak over time, lose their carbonation, and occasionally when we find a can a couple years old in the back behind everything, it may even be empty and still be factory sealed, and a really bad gooey mess underneath it.

it only takes a pinhole in the coating for this to occur.

regards, charlie

Reply to
charlie

I suggested 3M 4200. 3M 5200 would be a bad choice. 3M 4200 would be perfect, as this is precisely the sort of thing it was designed to do. There is a fast curing version of 4200 called "Fast Cure 4200"

Tack free in 1-2 hours and fully cured in 24.

Reply to
salty

Soda cans are lined with plastic.

Reply to
salty

Actually they were lining them all along. I worked in a business that manufactured precision measurement systems used in can plants among others. The marketing folks decided it was time to make that a "new and improved" pitch.

Reply to
George

I just checked the 3M web site, and they mention 24-48 hours for a full cure in one place and 24 hours in another for the Fast Cure

4200. I didn't know that they now made a Fast Cure 5200 as well - that is listed as a full cure in 24 hours as well. Either one would be an excellent choice. Thanks for the correction. R
Reply to
RicodJour

3M Weatherstrip adhesive might work. Any auto parts store. Think of it as contact cement for cars.
Reply to
Bob M.

5200 would be a poor choice. If you ever had to replace that trim again, you would have to buy a whole new door. 5200 is only for things that will NEVER need to be taken apart. Never is a long time.
Reply to
salty

As to not hijack this thread, if the OP was concerned about acidic caulking effects on aluminum, he could pour vinegar in some aluminum foil set in a bowl for a few hours or even overnight to see what happens.

Aluminum foil has always held up to such treatment for me without damage.

Reply to
mike

NEVER...? When the literature refers to a permanent bond, they're talking about a permanent bond with the typical marine materials such as gelcoat and fiberglass. 5200 (if you use the recommended metal primer) is approximately twice the strength of 4200, which can present problems with delamination of gelcoat or fiberglass. Neither the glass door nor aluminum trim would delaminate so it would not be a problem. Sure it would be a bitch to get it off, but 4200 would still present problems in removal.

As I said in an earlier post, mildew is a concern in this application. 3M Marine Grade Silicone Sealant is mildew resistant, has the weakest bond if removal is a concern (still plenty strong enough for this application), the fastest tack time, is non-sag and would be a better choice than either 4200 or 5200.

R
Reply to
RicodJour

Never

Reply to
salty

The OP may want the job to last longer than that.

Reply to
salty

Ive seen the acidic type eat through #18 copper wire. Mind you that it took 3 or 4 years.

Jimmie

Reply to
JIMMIE

How long do you think the curing by-products hang around? Futher, aluminum tanks are used for acid transport, including organic acids like acetic acid:

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Reply to
mike

How many boats have you restored, repaired or built from scratch?

Just curious.

Reply to
salty

How is that relevant? Further, it appears this tangent is kinda moot, since the most common silicone sealant (GE Silicone II) doesn't release acid during cure:

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"Product releases methanol and ammonia during curing"

Reply to
mike

Silicone sealant is a lousy adhesive. The OP is looking for an adhesive/sealant, not just a sealant. He has already tried something that didn't hold well in this application. It is for a "client", so I'm basing my advice on the theory that he wants to only do this once, and get it right.

Reply to
salty

Lousy? It may not be equivalent to welding, but for goodness sakes, they mount undermounted sinks with silicone sealant (sometimes marketed as an adhesive). It may well be enough for application in mind. But that's the OP's call.

Reply to
mike

Wait a minute - just a second ago you were arguing that 5200 was a bad choice as it was permanent. Arguments go a lot smoother if you pick a side and stick to it! ;)

R
Reply to
RicodJour

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