I was just informed of the existence of these, here's an example:
$1700 (for 7 kW) doesn't seem too bad (altho 25 A x 240 V calcs out to 6
kW -- <sigh>).
They have a 17 kW for about $3500.
This seems like a really good idea, just for the lack of carburetor alone!
And of course the lack of stored gasoline....
Altho I (miraculously) escaped the wrath of this last early snow, 3 million
other people didn't, and overall I have (had) disconcertingly frequent power
problems, and should proly prepare.
As of a day or two ago, over 100,000 are STILL without power, mostly in CT.
Any comments, experiences generator-wise? Comments on this particular
brand, other brands?
Generac seems to have some good SEO people on board, judging from search
There is an old (optimistic) Dutch saying:
Wie goed doet, goed ontmoet
Wie is pronounced as the game thing, Wii
The g is a hard g, like in Hebrew
The oe sound is like the english oo in good
the rest should be similar ...
"Whoever does good, will encounter good"
I have a neighbor that had a Generac automatic generator
that ran on natural gas. He paid $7K for it about 5 years ago.
It failed after 4 hours of use during the recent hurricane.
Company that installed it told him it's not worth fixing and
he bought a new one.
My two cents is this. The automatic transfer generators
add compexity and more sources of failure as well as
cost. For under $1000 you can buy a portable generator,
an interlockit kit for your main panel, and an inlet to connect
the generator, as well as a natural gas conversion kit. Some
kits are permanent, others allow selecting between nat
gas, propane, or gasoline.
IMO the automatic systems make sense if there isn't
going to be someone there to connect the generator and
start it up. Otherwise a portable that you can connect
when needed as well as have for other possible portable
uses and which costs a lot less could be a better choice.
And in my recommended solution, if the generator is
trashed, you can buy a whole new one for $600 or so.
On Sun, 13 Nov 2011 14:28:13 -0800 (PST), the renowned
At $1,250, something like this would appeal to me if I lived in an
area with unreliable power:
It doesn't include a transfer switch, though. There are some systems
(such as the furnace and gas water heater electrics) that you'd want
powered in a long blackout.
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
firstname.lastname@example.org Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
I agree, keep the transfer manual.
If you have a main disconnect switch or breaker, it's actually sort of a
no-brainer to safely hook up a generator --
Can literally just add two 30 A breakers to the panel, and feed to the whole
house from there. Just make sure the main disconnect is off when running
A diesel generator, 70 db, 20 A at 240 V. Weight??
My Generac link I think was 62 db, 25 A at 240 V, $1700, nat. gas. Weighs
> It doesn't include a transfer switch, though. There are some systems > (such as the furnace and gas water heater electrics) that you'd want
On 11/14/2011 5:26 PM, Existential Angst wrote:
Time for this thread again already? Yes, your solution works, but it is
a bad idea, and probably illegal in many places. Sure, you know which
way to throw the switches, but what if you are injured/dead/out of town,
and somebody else fires it up, trying to be helpful? Unless there is a
mechanical interlock that won't let the backfeed breakers be turned on
unless main breaker is turned off, you have to potential for killing
linemen or neighbors with that wire on pole or ground you just
energized. Not as bad as the all-too-common suicide cords, but still way
too risky. The correct solution is simply not that expensive.
I'd bet that includes virtually all the USA.
Sure, you know which
An Interlockit kit is the cheap, easy and IMO best solution.
It's essentially a sliding bar, available for most panels, that
prevents the breaker going to the generator and the main
breaker from being on at the same time.
On 11/13/2011 5:28 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Assuming the Generac was installed and maintained properly, and the
automagic controls did the regular cycling (once a month for an hour?)
to make sure nothing froze up, I'd be leaning on dealer and manufacturer
over that short a lifespan. It had at most a hundred hours on it? I
certainly wouldn't eat a failed unit, unless it was my mistake that
killed it. No good reason such an installation shouldn't last for
30+years. Or was neighbor overloading it trying to light up the whole
neighborhood or something?
On Mon, 14 Nov 2011 11:28:55 -0800 (PST), Too_Many_Tools
Lubrication- Full pressure lub with filter/without filter or splash
Iron cyl, iron liner, silicone aluminum, or aluminum.
Those are just a few of the BIG differences between CHEAP and GOOD.
Automatic low oil cutoff? Not only yes or no - but quality and
reliability of the switch. Some work every time, some work sometimes,
some never work, and some shut the engine down even when the oil level
is totally up to snuff.
Camshaft - plastic or metal??? nd quality of.
With OHV engines, quality of engine rocker arms and other valve train
Then there is the generator head. Quality of insulation, quality of
assembly - soldering etc - and copper or aluminum windings.And quality
of control electronics. Amount of air gap, brush or brushless design,
Always SOMEWHERE an unscrupulous manufacturer can cut corners to
reduce the cost by another couple of cents and reduce the lifespan by
another couple of hours.
generators running on natural gas produce about 20% less power than on
plan on having some extra power to help neighbors, who will help keep
having a inverter to run some lights off a car battery is a good idea,
for quiet times
On Mon, 14 Nov 2011 03:52:03 -0800, bob haller wrote:
AFAIK, that's a worst-case for after-market conversions with poor
airflow. Best-case is about a 4% loss, and real-world typically ends up
being somewhere between the two (but I think CNG usually reduces
efficiency more than LPG does).
I suppose most people over-spec their generators anyway, rather than
buying them to run right at their load limits, so even a loss in maximum
power as high as 20% might not be an issue in most cases.
On Mon, 14 Nov 2011 11:31:23 -0800 (PST), Too_Many_Tools
and if the engine is DESIGNED for, say, PROPANE, and propane only -
with compression ratios etc adjusted to take advantage of the higher
octane (115AKI) a propane engine can make just as much power as a
gasoline engine. Takes more fuel to do the same job though.
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