Generator Thoughts

[Kyle Boatright]

I need a small generator for use at an isolated outside storage building. The power demand is 1,000 watts or less and the generator only needs to run for an hour or two at a time. The generator will only be used occasionally, but, like most things, needs to work when I need it.

FYI, I've looked at Honda generators, but their units are too pricey for my needs. I simply can't justify the cost, regardless of how nice the Honda generators are. At the other end of the spectrum, there are $99 generators on Ebay (2 strokes), but those scare the stuffing out of me, because I don't recognize the brand and because, after all, I need the darned thing to work when necessary.

Any thoughts for a reliable, low cost generator that'll fit the bill?

[HeyBub]

Presuming you GOT to this shed via a vehicle, consider a convertor that runs off the vehicle's electrical system.

[Edwin Pawlowski]

You have a lot of contradictions in your post. First, get your priorities straight.

You state: needs to work when I need it. I simply can't justify the cost, regardless of how nice the Honda generators are a reliable, low cost generator

Most of us know that reliable and low cost don't go together very well.

[Joe]

Translation: Honda needed

Translation: New Hondas are pricier than less robust brands and I really don't care all that much about reliability.

Translation: I want a free lunch

of me, because I don't

when necessary.

Translation: I'm too impatient to do an eBay search for Honda and wait for something in my price range to come along and now I've changed my mind about reliablility.

There are dozens of sources for generators, so just gather info for a while, then decide. Check out Northern Tool, Harbor Freight, and of course, Froogle. Good luck.

Joe

[Pete C.]

The Generac units are generally perfectly reliable in light duty service as you indicate. I have a 5kw that has done more than light duty and never had a problem other than one carb clog when it go shutdown and stored without running it dry. It has to be near 20 years old now and I just used it a couple months ago to power a hammer drill while doing an electrical upgrade.

For such a light load however, I'd really consider scraping up the $1k for a Honda EU2000i or if your load really is under 1kw a Honda EU1000i ($700). Sure they cost more than cheapos, but they will be a lot more reliable and long lasting. Get that no name $200 unit and the fifth time you go to use it and spend an hour trying to get it running you'll be kicking yourself for not getting the Honda. The Honda will also be a lot quieter, lighter and use less gas.

Pete C.

[m Ransley]

You are not very clear.. How many hours will it run in 5 years. A cheapy might get you 250-350 hrs till it starts to burn oil . A midgrade

5000w OHV engine might get you 2-3000 hrs. A 1000w is a big load on a little Honda to get maxiumum life but you might get 2-4000+ hrs. I just saw a little chinese OHV 2000w unit that had stabile power for maybe 250$ All I know is it was blue. With the real cheap imports you take your chances, who knows. The little Honda inverter is realy a clean output power unit, not necessary for power tools.

[Toller]

I agree with everyone else, but will go further. What are you going to use the generator for? Lights? Electronics? Pumps? And if it doesn't work, how much does it matter?

Its a little like saying you want to buy a car, but can't afford a Honda; what should you get? Well, that all depends on what you want to use it for, doesn't it?

[Jim Redelfs]

Yeah: You've posed a textbook oxymoron.

I paid $1k for a Honda EU2000i

two years ago. I have probably put 10-15 hours on it when "dry" camping.

One can stand DIRECTLY over it while it is running under FULL load and hold a reasonably "normal" conversation.

Every time I pull the starter cord, it starts. It runs perfectly.

I like the security of knowing I can power my new gas furnace during a protracted outage - all night if need be - without pissing-off my neighbors with noise.

I've heard the Yamaha line of quiet generators are as good and may even be slightly less expensive.

You get what you pay for.

[Toller]

Do you keep gas in it? How often do you change it? Mine is maybe 5 years old. It kept my furnace, refrigerator, and freezer going for 5 days during an outage; and you literally couldn't hear it from the street.

My one complaint is that it is hard to start, on old gas. I am just wondering what you do to get it to start on the first pull. Changing the gas is a pain, but certainly makes starting easier. I start it once a month just to keep everything moving.

[Larry Caldwell]

Why in the world do you keep old gas in it? When you finish using it, just let it run until it runs dry. With that old gas plugging up the carb, it's a wonder you can get it to start at all.

[Larry Caldwell]

I have a little 2-cycle 1200 watt cheapie that I bought at Coastal Farm Supply for $149. I assume it's the same as the eBay $99 specials. I use it on hunting trips, mostly to charge up the travel trailer battery. It has a 12 volt output that is pretty worthless, because a dead battery will trip the breaker, but the 120v outlet will run the trailer's battery charger. It will run for about 4.5 hours on a gallon of gas.

The voltage is pretty unstable. It uses an ignition interrupter to prevent over-voltage on light loads, so lights attached to it will flicker until you get about 500 watts load. Then it does pretty good up to 1000 watts load, when the voltage starts to sag. It's down 10% at

1200 watts.

On the up side, it has been very reliable. I don't leave gas in it, ever, even though there is a gas line shutoff. It is pretty quiet. If I set it on the other side of my pickup, you can barely hear it inside the travel trailer. The trailer furnace 12v blower makes a lot more noise, and that furnace blower is the primary reason I need a generator in the first place.

[Walter R.]

for occasional use, take a look at Harbor Freight: from $ 239 to $ 7,000

[Jim Redelfs]

Yes.

I never CHANGE it, per se. I run the tank dry at the end of the camping season.

That is certainly encouraging. There is no doubt that I paid extra simply for the name "Honda" and also for the apparently considerable R&D that made the unit so quiet. I would buy the same model again.

Admittedly, it does NOT start on the FIRST pull when starting it for the FIRST time after being stored for a couple of months or so. However, in this case, it takes no more than two or three pulls. Subsequent restarts require an almost-slight SINGLE pull.

Like I said, I've never CHANGED the gas other than to RUN the thing dry. I'm glad you replied, though. I'll make an even greater effort to ensure I don't gum it up with old gas.

I'll probably now start doing that over the winter. Thanks.

[hallerb]

I echo the other poster who suggested if you drive to the shed get a 12 volt to 120 converter, really a inverter.

For a couple hundred bucks or less you have it availble not only for shed detail but other activities, no generator wouldnt start hassles, compact and light weight, absolitely quiet as your vehicle.

Best thing in a power outage you can use it at your home, no stale gas issues. etc etc.

If you can drive to shed a inverter is a no brainer.....

I have one and use it for all sorts of wiierd stuff, dont tell your friends you have one or they will be asking for help too....

[Stormin Mormon]

I think the Coleman Powermate runs 1,000 watts. I did a froogle search, and this was the closest I found

which is $609, and is 1800 watts.

What equipment do you want to run? Motors, lights, heaters, what?

[Pete C.]

One warning on that though - a 1 kW inverter can *not* be operated from your cigarette lighter outlet, it will melt. Inverters running over about 250W sustained output need to be directly wired to the vehicle's battery.

If you don't want to permanently install the inverter you can install one of the heavy DC quick connects as sold for detachable winches. These are nice since you can go all out and have an inverter, a winch and a jumper cable that all plug into this DC outlet when needed.

As for the previous posters comments about gas, get a bottle of Stabil fuel stabilizer. With it a tank of gas in the generator should be in useable condition even after up to a year of storage. By adding it to every tank of gas it will also help prevent clogged carbs.

Pete C.

[Tom Horne, Electrician]

Buy a genuine GI surplus unit for about four hundred dollars. Coleman's surplus is one vender that has them all the time.

[Pete C.]

Two problems with that:

1) I've heard very bad things about the Coleman branded generators from a professional generator service guy.

2) You can get a Honda EU1000i for $699 from Northern.

Pete C.

[Chris Lewis]

According to Pete C. :

No, you'll blow the fuse.

Inverters rated at 200-300W and up usually come with heavy alligator clips for direct battery connection - cigarette lighter fuses usually are only 15A. My inverter (300W + 400W surge) has two sets of detachable cables - one a alligator set, the other a lighter socket set.

[Pete C.]

That's the theory, however I have seen quite a few cigarette lighter plugs that made such poor contact that they heated and melted the plug at currents below the fuse rating.

I have the same inverter, it does a good job. 1 kW inverters draw to high a load for alligator clips to be reliable, on the order of 83A not counting inefficiencies. Currents in that range require hard connections and/or connectors rated for high currents. The DC connectors used for the winches typically are 175A continuous rated.

Pete C.