He has a boiler, it might need 100- 200 watts @ 120v, . 14ga might do fine at 100ft. I would be worried about the Gen and its delevering the required V and not 90 or 160 from being uncabibrated or going out of calibration, 12ga is better, less V drop on startup. Use Mobil 1 oil , after you test your uniit for Voltage stability to be sure it passes what works..
Yes this can be done I've done it with the exception of the 100 ft extension cord in my case it was only 10 ft long.
By using a 12 gauge extension cord the extra length should not be a problem.
In my case I measured the current consumption of the furnace(sorry boiler) It was never more then 5 amps. Orginally the boiler was hardwired to a switch box with simple toggle light switch used to shut off the boiler.
I removed the power feed from this switch box and used it to feed a 15 Amp outlet in seperate box right beside the switch box. I then feed the switch box from a short 12 gauge power cord that plugs into the new outlet.
When the power goes out I can unplug the furnace plug it into an extension cord running to my 800 Watt generator (120V outlet). Like you said not elegant but it almost meets code and works well. I've run the test run my furnace/boiler without any problems.
If your not comfortable in doing any of this it would be get help, but I suspect an electricain would not be able or willing to do this type of installation, like I said it doesn't quite meet code.
Sounds like a good approach; one I've considered doing myself. Very similar to one we used to use in a manufactoring plant to power the overhead lights in the switch gear rooms during plant-wide power shutdowns for electrical maintenance.
Take apart the connecton box, un wirenut the wires from the furnace. Cut a lenth of electrical plug and cord off a junk appliance. Wirenut the cord to the furnace wires. Plug short cord into extension cord. Plug extension into generator.
When power comes back, wirenut the power and furnace wires, and set the cords aside for use next time.
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