Right up front, I want to acknowledge that I know what I'm discussing is potentially unsafe and probably illegal. That being established, I'll continue.
I am the *only* person in the house who would go anywhere near the breaker box, much less throw a switch. I am also keenly aware that an improperly connected generator backfed to a main panel can injure a line worker; and I can assure those concerned that I am familiar with the necessity and procedures for isolating the generator power from the public grid. Under no circumstances will my generator be connected unless the main breaker is open.
So, assuming I don't royally f*ck up, tell me the truth. Is it truly feasible and practical to provide power to the house by backfeeding to a wall outlet from the generator? I'd only do this for providing "comfort" power (lights, tv, etc.) while providing direct power via extension cords for major power users such as frig, freezer, etc.
Without a long discussion about the legality, and assuming I'm a reasonably intelligent adult with enough sense to not electrocute myself or burn my house down, is this a workable solution?
Apart from the factf that it is careless, and dangerous, you are likely going to be feeding through a 15 or 20 amp outlet. That will flow back through a 15 or 20 amp breaker. And this circuit is just one side of the 240 volt service. Any loads (about half of them) that are connected to the other side of the service won't see any energy. This isn't enough to be comfortable when power goes out. Both meters on my system sit at about 25 amps when we are without power and are conserving.
Do it right and put in a transfer switch, also called a safety switch. It's not difficult and it is the right way not only because it is the right way, but it works much better.
If you've come here looking for absolution for this unsafe potentially deadly technique then do what the hell you want and pray you don't end up on trial for manslaughter.
If you want to know how to do it right I will spend all of the time you need to help you do it right. The cost of a completely safe installation is not a lot more. When utility workers back feed an electrical service during emergencies they use a double block and break technique. They open the main breaker and pull the meter. The generator is then connected to the meter tails meter end. This is done for service to hospitals, nursing homes and the like. All you have to do is tell me what brand and model of panel you have and I will tell you how to set this up so that any member of your family can do it safely and easily.
Chances are (no pun intended), I'm not going to do it at all; but the circumstances behind the question are that we have a substantial ice storm forecast & I just bought the generator today. I *will* be getting the correct stuff installed asap, but that won't be before the lines come down tomorrow.
Then why not just run a few extension cords, Alot safer and your not exposing people or your gen to a possible blow. Also a UPS can Mess up a generator, as a ups will read a swing as a surge and go to ground. Even honda with stable voltage doesnt recomend it.
The absolute worst thing to do is to try it when you have a power outage. Doing unfamiliar things in the dark and cold is a sure way to kill yourself or others.
I suspect that that highest danger would be AFTER the power is restored.
A "typical" SUICIDE cord would have MALE-MALE connectors: one each for, say, the dryer outlet and the generator outlet. Or it would be a cable "hardwired" into the panel via a 2-pole breaker with the other end a MALE connector to the generator.
When commercial power is out, the only danger comes from your generator. The linemen are "safe" if your main breaker is open. You are "safe" if the panel end (or dryer outlet end) of your SUICIDE cord is attached or plugged in. The danger in installation is that if the power comes on while you are working (ASSuming you forgot to pull the mail breaker FIRST) you will get zapped.
While you are operating the main danger comes from you MALE-MALE "extension" cord. If it pulls out of the dryer outlet, you have a LIVE MALE CONNECTOR! Since that "extension cord" will, likely, be running through a partially open window, anyone might be tempted to unplug and toss the cord outside and close the window. YOU might do that if you are not thinking hard.
When the power is restored you first impluse might be to leave the generator running while you "test" to ensure the commercial power is good. If you "miss" the breaker going to the generator when you turn the main breaker back on you might get a surge that can damage the generator before the breakers can trip. If you decide to "unplug" the generator you end up with a HOT MALE connector.
If you think clearly none of this will happen. But after a day or two or three or four of running about looking for fuel and load managing the house you might get sloppy.
There is a REAL danger.
Unfortunately, you can buy a ready to go generator from Wal-Mart of less than $500. It will cost you close to that much money to pay for and install a load transfer panel that will only switch some of your stuff.
You can buy the stuff to make SUICIDE CORDS at any hardware store. But you can't find a relatively inexpensive source of Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) switches that might make it safer and easier to use your generator in an emergency.
What's "funny" is that the local volunteer rescue squad/fire department has a big sign out saying: Buy a Generator NOW! Since I live in an area where many folks get their water from private wells they should either take down the sign. Because if you are on a private well, the MAIN thing you want the generator for is the run your pump.
You can get a generator for $500 or less. A suicide cord might be thrown together for another $50.
I suspect that installing just a small load transfer subpanel (which look to be close to junk) would eat up $150 in hardware. If a "pro" puts it in, you are talking about another $100.
A "whole house" solution can cost a substantial fraction of the cost of an entirely new service.
What is/are needed is/are CHEAP ways of getting you generator SAFELY connected.
That "may" be possible, however most modern commercially made "generator transfer panels" use circuit breakers to disconnect the utility power and connect the generator power to the house.
Manual transfer switches use CB's to protect the branch circuits. GEN--OFF--LINE switches are used in manual transfer switches to isolate the load(s). It's a known fact that regular CB's sometimes can and do fail closed. Learn how to post so people can follow who's saying what.
It is absolutely possible and can work perfectly. I have a 220V (#10 wire) outlet in my garage, whose original purpose was to power woodworking equipment while I was building the house. When I have a power outage, I throw the main breaker in the basement, plug the generator into this outlet using a special extension cord I made (male on both ends), and away we go--the entire house is powered, though it is probably not a good idea to use the electric range, and my welder is not usable either. Just be sure you
Throw the breaker
Plug the extension cord into the house outlet
Plug the other end into the generator
in that order. Reverse the order when shutting down. This has seen me through 5 or 6 power outages (we don't get very many). The generator is a
A possible problem with this, and why I didn't mention a "welder outlet in the garage" in my previous message is the NEC allows you to use #10 wire with a 50A breaker for a welder. You could burn up the wires without tripping the breaker if you backfed this circuit with a generator bigger than about 7kW. (Also if you replace the welder with one that has a high duty cycle and operate it at high power.)
You really ought to pull the meter (tell the power company you are doing this) or padlock the main disconnect, just to make sure someone doesn't come along behind you and turn the mains back on.
I've always backfed my generator so I can tell you that it works just fine electrically BUT:
You can get electrocuted if you plug an operating generator into an existing outlet since the plug will likely be male and easy to touch. I plug the house into the generator via the female end of the cable.
You really need to do more than just pop the main. I have whole house disconnects and actually put a padlock on the panel just to be sure no-one else can touch it.
You need to sequence circuits manually or your generator could go "poof". When my deep well pump is starting and running I need to insure there's little additional load on the generator. Induction motors consume 3-10X more current starting than running. You need to factor this in to your procedure and you better not be wrong.
The receptable you use to backfeed the generator should be a high amperage 220 v outlet such dryer outlet or you might not feed your home properly. Once again you still need to ensure your balancing the homes load with the generator outlet.
Your backfeed cable system better be capable of handling the full amperage of the generator.
OK, I think I gave you the straight info. your asking for but the most important advice is that things are at their absolute worst during an outage. It can be dark, cold, and you might be in a hurry to get things online. Mistakes are totally unforgiving.
I have a detailed checklist and I follow it and double check it just like an airplane pilot would. I also have practice outages a few times a year.
Dave covered things but one overlooked area by most is load. As dave said starting current is much higher for motors. And a good cheap 6 circut transfer panel for 200$ helps you manage that by giving you 2 watt meter to balance your unit. If you havnt actualy gone around with an amp meter and measured starting and run load on every apliance to be used you could not only burn your generator out but your apliances to by overloading. No a generator fuse wont protect you. I dont know what unit you purchased, but I will bet it wasnt a honda or other top line voltage regulated model In which case you would be wise to monitor voltage through your use of switching apliances. Some cheap units can swing 40 v from no load to full load, with corresponding HZ You may be saying BY BY to that new furnaces control board or TV , microwave etc
Amazes me *WHY* the utilities haven't come out with an "Additional temporary input / utility bypass" meter pan?
-Power fails
-Bring portable generator to meter location.
-Open side access door of meter pan (Which physically disconnects meter from utility source)
-Inside side access is a recessed 20 or 30 or 40 (to match generator's rating) ampere male plug.
-Attach female end of extention cord to meter bypass outlet
-Attach male end of cord to generator.
Optional:
A solenoid operated ejector which, upon restoration of utility's power, would "punch" the cord out of the side input socket and the door would spring shut. Another option: a fireman switch on the door cover which would shut down the genset if the door isn't open.
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