not yet seized up and turned into a rock. I guess
a wise and caring friend of yours knew some how
that you needed to check oil?
No clue about the two oil caps.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
On Monday, December 15, 2014 9:07:48 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I would be amazed that with that little oil, the oil pressure or
level cutout wouldn't have shut it down completely long ago. And IDK
how low you can go without screwing the engine, but I agree, I would
think if that's all the oil there was in there, you would think the
engine would be shot.
See my other post about his previously mentioning an external oil tank,
eg a dry sump kind of settup, that was in the manual. If that's actually
there, then maybe what he drained is just from the crankcase, there is
more in the tank? What he drained is clearly one oil drain, the
very obvious one that you'd go to, but could there be another? IDK.
On Monday, December 15, 2014 1:12:54 AM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:
That may get back to the separate oil holding tank you mentioned.
You said the manual says it has one, but it actually doesn;t. But
are you sure? If the engine is designed to be used in applications
either with or without the extra tank, you could have one cap on the
engine, one cap on the tank or hoses leading to the tank, etc.
without, then having a cap on the engine
And, the spark plugs are probably shot, but I couldn't get them out:
And, the oil was definitely very low:
So, once I figure out the two enigmas, it should be back up and
Why are there two oil fill holes?
Maybe there was truth to the second oil tank in the first
Why can't I pull off the spark plug boots?
Maybe they are bolted on somehow? Can that be?
CY: I saw bare copper low voltage wire, and some
bad insulation on the high voltage wire, on the
other one. The colored wire might be possible
to cut out the bare copper, and splice in some
newer wire. The black wire, I'd buy a roll of
good electrical tape, and wrap it.
CY: Less than a quart and a half, for sure.
CY: Most likely lack of maint. Twist left and
right repeatedly, and then pull again. use
spark plug grease inside the boots when
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
Stormin Mormon wrote, on Mon, 15 Dec 2014 09:07:49 -0500:
Thanks for that suggestion. Much appreciated.
When that little dribble came out, I was embarrassed to snap
the picture. I actually considered not posting it. I'm shocked
that I allowed the oil level to be *below* the dipstick!
I'm surprised the thing ran at all (since it has a low oil
pressure switch). I realize pressure does not equal volume
(but eventually lack of volume equals lack of pressure).
I suspect that's why it was shutting off in the beginning,
until it built up enough oil pressure. But I'm not sure.
Nonetheless, not only was the oil extremely low, but, it
came out muddy. Mea culpa. <hides head in shame>
I'm waiting on the Generac support line to ask them.
trader_4 wrote, on Mon, 15 Dec 2014 06:20:38 -0800:
You are correct in the doubt of whether there is only 1 oil tank
or two oil tanks.
Clearly, there are two oil-filler caps, one of which has a dipstick,
while the other is on top of a cylinder head (which is a weird spot).
Yet, that second (blue) oil filler cap clearly has an oil-can symbol
on it, as does the (black) oil filler cap next to the drain.
OK. I just got off the line with Mitch at Generac. There is only
one oil tank, he says. The blue oil filler cap is for when the
engine is mounted 90 degrees to where mine is mounted, so, he
says, I should use only the black cap.
He says there may be a special tool needed to remove the spark
plug cap, so, he's going to research that for me and get back
You'd think the manual would mention these two things...
trader_4 wrote, on Mon, 15 Dec 2014 06:15:51 -0800:
I'm confused, because:
a) The rev 0 manual said there were two oil tanks of different volume,
b) The rev 1 manual only mentions one tank
c) I have two oil-filler caps
d) Yet, the blue one is vertical (so it would be hard to fill).
Generac support (Mitch) asked someone for me, who told him to tell
me that the second (blue) one is for when the generator is mounted
sideways, and for me to use just the first (black) one.
As for the spark plug boot, Mitch says he'll research that further
as a special tool may be needed. It must have some kind of spring
mechanism because it pulled back hard when I tried to pull it off.
Stormin Mormon wrote, on Mon, 15 Dec 2014 09:03:50 -0500:
Yeah. Those wires look chewed on.
Maybe I need to stick some rat poison in there in
addition to putting the cover on.
BTW, the exposed fins are only because I had removed
the cover to them; which I will certainly put back on.
Thanks for noticing that detail!
Stormin Mormon wrote, on Mon, 15 Dec 2014 09:11:13 -0500:
It's raining now (woo hoo!) but when the rain stops, I will wrap
the blue bare wire with electrical tape (and maybe reinforce it
with some bare copper wire) and wrap up the high-voltage wire
Thanks for the suggestion!
On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 06:12:30 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
Generally I agree - but recently I had a good look at the Fram Ultra
Synthetic (Gold) oil filter last week and it appears to be built as
well as any Wix or other mid-line to premium brand filter. It has a
silicone drainback valve, metal end caps, premium dual layer
filtration media, and metal screen support for thefiltration media to
maintain flod spacing. I really could not think of many ways to make
it a better filter.
The silver Tough-Guard is a cheap filter - bsing sold at a more
premium pricepoint than the also cheap Orange ultra-guard filter
Now, to be sure, this is NOT a cheap (or even inexpensive) filter -
Next spring when I change the oil on the Taurus again I'll try to
remember to open it up and get some pictures.
I apologize for not responding to all your posts, and I did read the
suggestion to go to a generac-specific forum. I had actually gone there
and realized I had to create an account, login, etc, and decided to
call Generac instead (which is well documented).
In addition, I updated this thread, since that's where the question
started. It's usually not a good idea to have multiple threads in
multiple places, so I had opted to remain in this thread and not
open an ancillary thread.
I realize you feel that is folly, and I do understand your point,
but I have had lousy experiences with the quality of results from
many web-based forums, not the least of which is the mechanical
problem of remembering the various logins and passwords unique to
each web based forum - none of which is needed for Usenet posts.
I believe I am moving in the right direction, and I do appreciate
your advice and information. While I fault the manual for not explicitly
stating there are two spark plugs, the fact is that the exploded diagram
shows a v-twin engine, which, even though there are no spark plugs
shown in the exploded diagram, would have intimated two plugs.
Anyway, I have the second plug, and I am just waiting word from
Generac Support (Mitch) on how to properly remove the boots.
I am delighted that you are converging on a solution, and that help has
been available. It is true that a login is required to participate in
Ziller's forum, but the benefits of talking with many experienced
Generac trained people who are fixing these units on a daily basis
should not be underestimated. They have solved a tough problem I was
having (and I have 2 engineering degrees and 40+ years of repair
experience!) so I just wanted you to get the best and most direct
I also urge you to buy the Generac brand maintenance kits going forward.
Everything you need for annual maintenance is there, and they are not
outrageously priced. Once you make the annual maintenance simple you
will be less likely to put it off in the future.
Best of luck Danny and hope I have provided some useful inputs here.
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