Generac 8Kw generator balky start and transfer switch makes clicking sounds

trader_4 wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 08:10:22 -0800:

The manual says 50 hours in one place and every 100 hours in another. The generator has over 500 hours, but, I didn't put it all on (I don't remember how much I put on).

So, my plan is to give it a "tuneup", whatever that means to a propane generator:

  1. Battery tested at Autzone for voltage under load,
  2. New spark plug (Champion RC12YC I think)
  3. Oil change & oil filter
    formatting link
Reply to
Danny D.
Loading thread data ...

Bosch are good too , I'd run one if Wix were unavailable . I'm not sure about your spark plug , but i know my Harley runs an RN12YC . There are charts online of what all the numbers and letters mean ...

Reply to
Terry Coombs

Terry Coombs wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 17:57:34 -0600:

Oh, we spent more than 45 minutes trying to find a RC12YC. The auto parts guy looked in every cross reference he had. We googled it on my iPad. And we even called Generac from the store (which is what took most of the 45 minutes).

Generac has no clue but they said it 'could' be a typo. All we know is that the R12YC doesn't exist.

The one good thing that came of the multiple calls to Generac support was that each person told us something different, which allowed us to figure out that there is no such thing as the "oil makeup tank" and that the "SAE340" was a typo.

We now have "revision 1" of the manual, which still says to use the spark plug which doesn't exist though.

Anyway, I'll pull and compare spark plugs (not that this will be an exact test but if it's way off, I should be able to see that as long as it's not off internally).

Reply to
Danny D.

100 hours sounds about right. When I said once a year, I was thinking that few of these home generators are going to run enough in a year to reach an hour based number. It should probably be changed once a year anyway, regardless of usage. It starts up once a week as a test and runs for like 10 mins, right? Doing that, sitting outdoors, probably gets condensation into the oil, so changing it once a year or so is probably a good idea.
Reply to
trader_4

That would be an oil holding tank that is in addition to whatever oil is in the engine crankcase. Some cars use that system, Harley's, etc.

Reply to
trader_4

trader_4 wrote, on Sat, 13 Dec 2014 03:56:58 -0800:

Yes. Ostensibly that's to charge the battery.

Reply to
Danny D.

Zak W wrote, on Sat, 13 Dec 2014 11:16:52 +0000:

Here is a video of the clicking sounds:

formatting link

Here's what is inside the transfer cases: Left:

formatting link
Right:
formatting link

Reply to
Danny D.

Oddly, I have an old Champion catalog. No such plug that I could find. Wish I was more help.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Stormin Mormon wrote, on Sat, 13 Dec 2014 09:22:12 -0500:

Thanks for checking that out. I have the newer manual from Generac (rev 1 instead of rev 0), which corrects two of the three errors - but still specifies the non-existent spark plug.

I'm pretty sure that the plug designation is a typo, but, when I pull the old one, I'll know for sure so I'll let you know.

Thanks for looking it up for me.

Reply to
Danny D.

"Oh, that one? I threw away four of them last week...."

I do have some old plugs. My guess, it's fairly close to some thing that's for sale near you.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Generac sells a service kit for each generator including spark plug, oil filter, and air filter. Just buy it and save yourself (and everybody else) a lot of confusion.

Reply to
Smarty

Smarty wrote, on Sat, 13 Dec 2014 11:09:46 -0500:

I didn't know about that, and, certainly Generac support didn't volunteer that information, particularly when I asked about the oil and the plug.

But, at this point, I think I'm fine: a) The oil filter appears to be correct, b) The spark plug will be compared to the old one c) The oil is just plain old motor oil (SAE & API notwithstanding) d) The air filter appears to be a serviceable filter (cleanable)

I'll snap pictures, hopefully later today, as it's not currently raining.

Reply to
Danny D.

It will in lall likelyhood be an RJ12yc - or perhaps an RN12c The R means resistor, the N is 14mm 3/4" long thread, while a J is

14mm 3/8 in long thread, both with 13/16" hex head. An N can be replaced with a C or R, with 5/8, 3/4, or 5/8 inch hex. So yes, an R12Yc plug DOES exist (or has in the past). It is a non reisistor 14mmX3/4" thread projected nose copper core plug. with a 3/4 or 11/16" hex head. - which in MOST cases can be replaced with either an N12yc or RN12yc plug assuming there is a big enough "plug well" to get a 13/16" plug socket onto the plug.
Reply to
clare

Danny D.-

I happen to have a pdf copy of that manual. the spark plug is illustrated on page 24, item 52. According to the parts list on page

27, it is part number 72347, "D" Spark Plug.

Searching for 72347GS, it is apparently no longer available. I found two sites that crossed it to part number 491055S. Sears PartsDirect crosses that to RC12YC.

With regard to the oil change interval, many generators have a short "break in" interval for the first oil change, then a longer interval after that. Once you get it running, consider running it on fresh oil for 24 hours under some load like a couple electric heaters. Then change oil and observe a 100 hour interval after that.

I hope your clicking was just a reaction to low oil. If not, you may also find help at .

Fred

Reply to
Fred McKenzie

The Generac technicians on the forum I previously cited recommended synthetic oil, and I therefore have been using Mobil 1 for annual oil changes since I installed my Generac in 2007. Also I am not aware that the air filter can be cleaned and re-used as you state above. Suggest you check both of these items carefully.

Reply to
Smarty

Here is Generac's web pages where the maintenance kits I previously referred to are sold.

Although the kits are individually priced at around $50, I bought 10 of them for $260 online to avoid the annual hassle. The plugs come pre-gapped, the air and oil filters are exact Generac parts, the kit also contains a funnel and cleaning cloth for oil clean up, and they even throw in a small spark plug wrench.

Do yourself a favor if you intend to do the proper annual maintenance yourself and just buy a batch of these kits. It makes the whole process much simpler.

formatting link

Hope this helps! Smarty

Reply to
Smarty

Fred McKenzie wrote, on Sat, 13 Dec 2014 15:00:15 -0500:

Thanks for going the extra mile to help a fellow homeowner!

I wasn't able to get to it today due to a personal issue, but, hopefully soon.

Reply to
Danny D.

I replaced the oil and oil filter of the Generac today, and much to my chagrin, I found out that the engine is a v-twin which means it needs two sparkplugs!

formatting link

Worse yet, I was totally unable to pull out the spark plug wire. It's either bolted in, or extremely tightly on.

formatting link

I was pulling with all my strength on the spark plug boots. It has some spring mechanism, but I was pulling so hard, that I was afraid I was going to break the wires.

formatting link

As an aside, some animal has chewed on the high-voltage cables.

formatting link

But, the big deal is that I can't get the spark plug cables off, and I don't want to use super-human force, for obvious reasons.

There must be a trick of some sort ...

Reply to
Danny D.

Terry Coombs wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 11:40:24 -0600:

Interestingly, the filter that was on there was Wix.

formatting link

I'm still confused why there are TWO oil filler caps, one of which is seemingly on the head on top of one of the cylinders:

formatting link

It took me a while to realize there was an oil-drain hose, tucked away *behind* the filter:

formatting link

The really bad news is that nowhere near 1.5 quarts came out:

formatting link

So, from the start, the generator was very low on oil:

formatting link
Does anyone know why there are *two* oil filler caps?
formatting link

Reply to
Danny D.

Smarty wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 10:49:27 -0500:

I saw the air filter had old sound-deadening insulation in it:

formatting link

I can see a badly chewed on set of high tension wires: coil #1

formatting link
coil #2
formatting link

And, the spark plugs are probably shot, but I couldn't get them out:

formatting link

And, the oil was definitely very low:

formatting link

So, once I figure out the two enigmas, it should be back up and running.

Enigma #1: Why are there two oil fill holes? Maybe there was truth to the second oil tank in the first owners manual?

formatting link

Enigma #2: Why can't I pull off the spark plug boots? Maybe they are bolted on somehow? Can that be?

formatting link

Reply to
Danny D.

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.