GE Fridge fails to cool?

I have a 2 year old GE side-by-side refrigerator (model GSS22GSPC) that sporadically fails to cool. It might work fine for a day or a week, then I open it and it's 40 in the freezer and 70 in the fridge. Another recent symptom is that the digital readouts for setting coldness sometimes don't light up when the door is opened. Most of the time (possibly always?), cold air starts flowing if unplug the fridge, then plug it back in.
I don't think the compressor is bad, since it often is blowing cold air in the freezer, but not in the fridge. The problem also does not appear to be related to the door being poorly adjusted, or with the unit getting electricity (the lights come on fine).
About 9 months into it's life, it started doing this same thing. I had a warranty repair done on the unit. The repairman checked everything and could find no problems, so he replaced the main control board. The unit worked fine for the past 13 months. I replaced the control board, but the problem persists. What else could possibly be going on with this unit???
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Follow-up for the group:
Turns out the problem was that GE moved the door-close sensor switch from the inside hinge to the top. Then they put on an adjustable fresh-food door with a teflon washer. As the door gradually drops thru use, it fails to trip the switch. So...the fridge thinks the door is open (and the lights stay on). The compressor is unable to overcome the heat generated from 2 60 watt bulbs and the fridge compartment overheats. Eventually, the fridge shuts off because it thinks the door was left open too long (symptom: LEDs shut off). The problem with freezer sometimes getting too warm is that it draws it's air from the fridge. Once the fridge is 70, it's hard for the freezer to stay at zero.
The fix is to make sure the fridge door is adjusted at least as high as the freezer door...if it's 1/8" lower, it's probably not tripping the door-close switch.
snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

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