I use that website all the time to figure out appliance problems, cost of
parts, how to do the repairs, etc.
Here's what it says for the OP's dryer symptoms:
"On most dryers the drive motor turns the drum and the blower wheel to
exhaust the air. If the dryer won't start the motor might be defective.
Before replacing the motor, check the thermal fuse, start switch and door
switch because all three are more likely the cause. If the dryer won't start
and the dryer motor makes a humming noise there might be something caught in
the blower wheel, or the drum might be binding. Try removing the belt from
the motor and checking the blower wheel for obstructions. The dryer motor
can't be tested easily. If the more common components have been checked and
it seems the motor itself is defective, it will need to be replaced. It is
Yep. I kept my old Sears going for something like 30 years. Just needed
a new belt once in a while (or an idler arm). Eventually the motor went
so I bought a new drier not much different from the original.
They tried real hard to sell me a service contract. <G>
Yep, any company that has service will try to push a service contract.
A good money maker.
The worst I heard of was ADT.
The place where I do volunteer work had a contract with them for their
security system...I think they were paying $300 a month.
One day the system went down and when they came out...they saw that
computer the software was installed on was Win2k and ADT said there was
nothing they could do as they do not support Win2k. (All equipment was
owned by the org. I volunteer for.)
In other words, the place paid all that money for nothing.
I got advice on-line from a guy who used to work for ADT and he told me
to buy a Linux based security system which cost a total of $200 .
They could buy a new one each month and still save money.
They have now had it for two years and never had to spend money again.
I had a dryer like that, I was able to get it going by manually turning
the drum while pressing the start switch. I thought it was the bearings
going out, but now that I think about it, it could have been a bad
centrifugal switch as well.
Anyway you might also check to see if anything is stuck in the fan in
the back. Take off the exhaust hose, unplug the unit, and pull it back
from the wall. The top should pop off by inserting a wedge on either
side until the holders come free (probably best to follow some sort of
online guide for this).
On Monday, January 6, 2014 11:33:41 AM UTC-5, Jon Danniken wrote:
I got it going. There is a felt loop (for insulation I guess) that seals
the front of drum to the front door assembly. The thing had broken or some
thing. I just took it out, left the top off, pressed start while spinning,
now it works. Should I replace that felt drum seal thing? It didn't seem
to affect me spinning it by hand, so I am worried this wasn't the problem.
Should that felt thing have an imprint from the drum spinning against it?
assembly. The thing had broken or something. I just
took it out, left the top off, pressed start while
spinning, now it works. Should I replace that felt
drum seal thing? It didn't seem to affect me spinning
it by hand, so I am worried this wasn't the problem.
Should that felt thing have an imprint from the drum
spinning against it?
The felt strip provides a little bit of lubrication.
It's a fairly common replacement part.
Turn the timer to any cycle, open the door, hold the door switch closed, tu
rn or push the start switch to start, hear the hum, and give the drum a sho
ve clockwise by grabbing a baffle and moving the drum. If the motor starts
and the drum moves on its own, you need a new motor.
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