Gas Pipe Install

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shebaaa wrote:

no excessive test pressure really needed, remember the gas pressure is at best a few ounces....
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use different teflon tape, one time i had some that must of been bad and refused to seal water joints. it was brand new.
rummaged around found a old roll that worked fine..........
friend who is a master plumber said use tape AND dope for best seal and that is what he always does
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Teflon tape is best not used on gas. Small pieces end up in the gas valve.
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

to create a fast leak for finding with bubbles.
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how did you seal the far end. I mean you pressurized one end, what about the other?
if you have that end connected to the heater thats probably the leak! appliance valves are NOT designed to hold back that kind of pressure.......... normal pressure a few ounces test poressure 25 to 75 pounds.....
other end should be capped and sealed for proper testing...
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one end is capped and the other is fitted with an appliance gas valve. I was always suspicious of that ball valve and pressure testing, so I'll probably remove it and replace with a cap and then pressure test again. But I think the problem is a joint that was not tight enough and the dope failed. That's why there was a delay in the leak
Anyway, when do you call it good? Maybe I will first pump the system up to 15 psi for 10 minutes to satisfy the inspector. Then I will reduce pressure down to 5 psi and let it sit for 96 hours before I'm personally satisfied and feel like I can move on.
Thanks for the input
snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

probably right but before you tear it all apart try capping at that valve just for the heck of it
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