GAS LAWN MOWER TAKES 100 PULLS TO TURN OVER

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My gas mower doesn't turn over without 100 pulls.
It's 5 years old never tuned or anything. Plus, I never drained out the gas because I use it over the winter.
Do you think it's the spark plugs?
What can I do to remedy this pain in the butt and arm?
Can I service it myself?
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I know this can really be a PITA with lawn mowers.
Perhaps a new plug might help you. The plug that is in there might be really fouled up, and in bad shape. Fresh gasoline wouldn't hurt either.
Do you notice a smell of gasoline when trying to start it after so many pulls? If so, you're more than likely flooding the engine. If not, then perhaps you're not getting enough fuel delivery for start up. Many lawn mowers nowadays have rubber priming bulbs near the carburetor, and these need to be pushed 3-6 times before trying to start to prime the carburetor.
If the problem still persists after fresh gas, and a new plug, then the last option is buy yourself a spray can of Starting Fluid (Ether). While this isn't the best thing to use on gas engines, a short squirt into the Carb after removing, and re-installing the carb filter will most likely get it up, and running lickety split with a pull, or two. Mark
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remove plug, pour a little gasoline in hole replace plug try starting.
it may start fine after a few pulls and might even run great.
chances are its a carbuerator problem
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Your lawnmower is fine but you need a shoulder replacement every spring.
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tmurf.1 wrote:

LOL
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Try using a push reel mower instead.
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Right. You'll get a better balance workout that way.
R
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wrote:

I had a similar problem with my weed whacker. The final solution was I had too low a mixture ratio two stroke engine oil.
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If it's just a basic no feature mower, having someone else service it could cost more than it's worth.
You need to determing first if it is getting spark and gas.
Prime or choke as usual, gas on full as usual then give it a bunch of pulls. Take the plug out and see if it is wet.
If not wet: it's not getting gas. Take a straw and dip it in gas enough to fill at least half way. Put finger over the end so it will hold the gas when you remove the straw. Dump that gas right in the cylinder hole where the plug goes. Put the plug back in and try to start it. Does it kick or start for just a short period and stop?
If it is wet: then (for now) clean the plug with fine sandpaper. The gap is what needs to be really clean. Was it ugly to start with? Connect the wire to the top of the plug while it is out of the machine. Hold the metal exterior base where you put the socket on to remove it against an unpainted area of the engine. Use insulated handle pliers or you will get zapped. Have a bud pull the starter one or two times. It will pull very easlily with the plug out of the machine. You should see a small blue spark in the plug gap. If you don't see spark then need to check if the plug, coil wire or coil is NG.
If the plug was wet and you are getting spark, take the air filter off. It's either made of paper or foam on the inside. Is it loaded up with crud? Try and start it without the filter. If it starts and runs then fine but don't use the machine without it on. You'll really clog up the carb.
If you got the machine to run with the above, go get a new plug and air filter. Take both with you. The new plug needs to be gapped before it is installed. If the new air filter is foam, they usually recommend you cover it in motor oil then squeeze out as much as possible. Also change the oil.
There are other possibilities like water got into gas, gas cap vent blocked, etc but the above will at least get you started with some direction.
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Still another possibility is that the motor is plain worn out after 5 years. Lack of compression can cause similar problems. I got rid of a mower for that reason. The guy that took it still has the same problem, but is more willing to pull the rope 30 or more times while my John Deere starts on the first pull. (Kawasaki engine)
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It's a Scott Self Propelled Easy Start 6.25 HP somewhat fancy for me.
I do smell gas when pulling, and it says to prime 3 times and I prime 10, so I must be flooding. You know, if three's good, isn't ten better? NO!
If reducing priming doesn't work, I will clean the spark plug and be sure gas is getting through the line. I admit I am very close to buying the starter spray.
I bet it's operator error!
Al Bundy wrote:

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not if you were using it without trouble for the last 5 years
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wrote:

I have two mowers. Depending on the weather one or both won't start without a starter spray. After that, they run fine and don't need starter spray to restart unless they've been sitting for a few hours.
It's only 1.19 a can or so at authoparts stores. If you have a choice, get the one with "upper cylinder lubricant", but I don't think it makes much difference. Starter spray doesn't go bad and the nozzle doesn't get clogged. One can lasts me for 5 or 10 years. I guess it's conceibable that the can could leak so store it outside, I guess.

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If you do change the, either have some one with experience do it or use a torque wrench. The cylinder head is aluminum and the treads are easily stripped.
MRS. CLEAN wrote:

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Why oh why do people not regularly service small power equipment?????? Do you drive your car for 5 years with no service? A gas engine is a gas engine, regardless of size. On the bright side, it's a great way to make money. Take a "broken" lawn mower/weedeater/whatever out of the garbage, buy 20$ worth of parts, resell for two to three times as much.
MRS. CLEAN wrote:

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I remember someone doing that with TVs. Buying used sets that really just needed a new fuse, and reselling them.

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Good advice in AL Bundy's post, I would just add, if the mower is 5 years old and you have never serviced it in any way, go ahead and replace the plug, air filter, and change the oil; At 5 years this should be done whether you test them or not.
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MRS. CLEAN wrote:

with "varnish" from the gasoline.
A quick fix to get it started is to spray some cleaner in the throat of the carburetor. B & S sells their own brand, but others will work, too.
For a longer term fix, pour about half a can of automotive carburetor cleaner in the tank and run it out.
JMHO. HTH.
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"MRS. CLEAN" wrote:

Check out the choke mechanism to see that it is free to move. Sometimes they get stuck, and when they get stuck open, the symptoms that you have described occur.
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MRS. CLEAN wrote:

after 5 years clean or replace the air filter and spark plug.
follow the owners manual about starting , more is not better in some cases.
check service costs, in my area they often run a tuneup special , in spring for lawn mowers and in fall for snowthrowers. Usually around $30.
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