Gas Furnace Question

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I suspect that the above dickhead is *not* Bob, but is trying to get folks to harrass him. He just started trolling in here a short time ago- has nothing to offer but wisecracks.
Jim
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snipped-for-privacy@newsfarm.iad.highwinds-media.com

My fame isn't virtual, it's real.
Bob Morein (215) 646-4894
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Jim Elbrecht wrote:

It sounds to me like someone at tha hvac group got bored and decided to go be a jerk somewhere else.
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On Sun, 20 Dec 2009 16:03:40 +1000, Soundhaspriority
I'm a "pro dickhead". Give me your GPS and I can slap a few knots on your head, faster than you could rub 'em off.
I spent 25 years dealing with turdheads like you. All mouth!
Is Drexal a school of hard knocks?
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Let's assume the doctor means "Get a pro, dickhead!"
bob_v
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As the OP on this thread, I report on closure:
I did install a new vent switch, but that did not really change the behavior of the furnace. My friend explained the matter to the landlord, and eventually, for $169, a technician arrived to diagnose and fix the problem. He said the "stop" switch was not working, pointing to the vent switch I had installed. My friend explained that it was brand new. The technician repeated that it wasn't working, and added that it was the "wrong kind". He removed it, added a similar looking switch and that seems to have solved the problem. I have not had a chance to get a really close look at the new switch to see how it is different, but the furnace does seem to behave normally now.
Thanks to all who provided help on this situation.
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I repair roll laminators for a living...GBC Seal Laminex USI Ledco Idex, and others..
Always find it funny that customers who tried and failed to fix something, when told of the real problem say thats not it now fix the problem.
this has even happened with manufactuers who sent me on warranty calls.
thats not it, now fix the problem... they hadnt a clue:(
I have asked them so why did you call me if you knew what would fix it???
a experienced tech has seen all sorts of wierd troubles, and had to solve them previously. part of what you pay for repairs is buying that experience..
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

It's sad that I have to explain to people that the product I sell is my time, knowledge, expertise and experience, not parts. When a lawyer hands you a couple of sheets of paper with some printing on them and says that will be $150.00, there are people who won't bat an eye but I spend a couple of hours figuring out the intermittent problem they're having with their latest new whizzbang technowidget and hand them a bill for $150.00, the same folks will have a fit. There are some people who aren't charged a dime, like the elderly mother of a friend.
TDD
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If it's naturally vented (no fan in the vent system) then it's probably a rollout switch. If so then you have draft problems. Hold you hand near the switch when the unit starts. Feel hot air? If so that's exhaust gases that are not going up the vent. If you don't feel anything then replace it.
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Yes, that is the case here.

Although the problem has been solved, I'd like to know just what a "rollout switch" does. Can you explain how it works? I've Googled "rollout switch" but all I learned were places to buy them, not what they do or how they work. Is it a switch that does anything more than shut off a circuit if the temperature sensed by it exceeds a specified level?
Thanks for any enlightenment you can provide.
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CWLee wrote:

From what I've read, it appears that the problem was a vent safety switch which is similar but not the same as a roll-out safety switch. On a forced air furnace one or more roll-out switches are located around where the burners take in combustion air and air for the draft. If the flames "roll out", ie, come out backwards from the burner assembly, the safety switch(s) detect this and shut down the furnace. Roll-out switches are usually manual reset like most safety sensors.
TDD
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