gas fireplace won't start-up - pilot is lit

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greg wrote:

260 what? Volt DC, AC? Or Ohm reading?
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Tony Hwang wrote:

Probably millivolts , since the OP mentioned a thermopile . I have a customer down in Memphis that is having the same type of problem with a floor furnace , but intermittent . He has whole-house forced air too so he's not cold , but he leaves a crawl space door open a little so his cat can shelter there . He worries about his pipes ...
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replying to Tony Hwang , greg wrote:

millivolts. It was 220 this morning. Tested the TP terminals. From what I am gathering this means I need a new thermopile?
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On 1/29/2014 9:44 AM, greg wrote:

I would. Should be above 300 *at* the thermostat. Replacement is the cheapest, quick fix/test option. Hopefully the gas valve is not on its way out, either.
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replying to Steve F. , greg wrote:

Do you have a specific model or brand you recommend?
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replying to John Galbreath Jr., RodCarewPDX wrote: I had the same issue when getting my pilot lit after being off for the past Spring+Summer. John, thank you for the troubleshooting tip. It worked great and I was able to find a short at the switch, cut back the wire and re-attach a clean connections.
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I'm dealing with a similar problem. Bought the house this summer, and got t he pilot light lit when fall came. Flipped on the wall switch, took a minut e or two and then fired up. Try to turn the wall switch on other days, wait several minutes, nothing happens. Turn off the gas, relight the pilot ligh t, flip the wall switch on and again it fires up after a minute or two. The n I still have the same problem on other days where it won't fire. After re ading these posts, I had seen a little box under the fireplace so I pulled that out, it's a remote start which seems to work fine. Turns on turns off no problem. So I turned it on with the remote, flipped on the wall switch, turned off the remote and it stayed lit. Assuming there's a problem with th e wiring in the wall switch? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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My recent problem is pilot light is lit but when I turn on the switch to li ght up fireplace it doesn't light up. So, I used a paper clip to jump it at the connections and after a while it lit up. So I conect the wires back an d it is now working like it's supposed to. My question is, what is the prob lem, why didn't it turn on at first before jumping? Is it a possible bad wi re or gas valve. Remember I thought it was the wire..but when I reconnected everything back and turn the switch on it worked.
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Ok, I am totally confused. Pilot is lit and has been for 10months. I flip t he wall switch and nothing. I remove the wall switch and touch the wires an d still nothing. So I jump at gas valve connection with paper clip and fire place lights up. I remove clip fires goes off. I reconnect the wires back and flip the switch to fire place ans it lights up. Fire place still workin g off the switch so what caused it to not turn on at first, why did it turn when jumped? Anybody have a clue?
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The pilot light flame must hit the thermocouple correctly, or the voltage t he thermocouple generates may not be enough to operate the main gas valve, while it is enough to keep the pilot light lit. Try adjusting the pilot li ght so that it more directly hits the thermocouple, check for clogged holes in the gas supply for the pilot as the previous poster found to be his pro blem.
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snipped-for-privacy@sbcglobal.net wrote:

Main valve is controlled by 24V control voltage, not by thermocouple. thermocouple's job is to keep the pilot on.
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replying to Tony Hwang , BobinDurham wrote:

Maybe a thermocouple's....but a thermopile generates the energy to open the gas valve. Once you turn the valve to pilot and ignite it, the pilot is on. If the pilot blows out for some reason, the thermopile senses the loss of heat and shuts the pilot valve down. Which is why if you turn the pilot on, push the knob in and ignite it....and you don't let the thermopile heat up enough? The pilot goes out.
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Try bypassing the wall switch with a clip lead or by shorting out/connecting the two terminals at the switch. Spiders have been known to live inside switches, especially if they were idle for 2+ years.
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On Wednesday, December 24, 2008 at 7:34:23 PM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote :

our micro switch. My switch was located near my igniter button. Just put yo ur gas log switch (light switch) in the on position. Take the two wires off the micro switch and touch them together. If the gas logs light you have f ound your problem! Don't worry, touching the wires together will not give y ou a shock.
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On 1/7/2016 7:33 PM, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Your newbie error is posting in 2008, and getting answer in 2016.
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This is happening in two other groups that I know of. Theory is that it's to do with Google Groups and people accessing it from mobile devices.
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On Wednesday, December 24, 2008 at 7:34:23 PM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote :

our micro switch. My switch was located near my igniter button. Just put yo ur gas log switch (light switch) in the on position. Take the two wires off the micro switch and touch them together. If the gas logs light you have f ound your problem! Don't worry, touching the wires together will not give y ou a shock.
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On 1/7/2016 4:33 PM, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Or stuck solenoid, or whatever turns on the gas.
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I'm thinking control problems.
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Uncle Monster posted for all of us...

You didn't want to get reamed out.
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