Garden Hose End Re-thread Die

The male ends of many of my garden hoses have become somewhat chewed up and I want to re-thread them properly. I have looked in my Mc Master-Carr catalog under Die and GHT (Garden Hose Thread) but there is no listing for the proper die .. either re-threading or primary. I am sure that it is there under the proper size & pitch but I do not know what that might be. Any and all help would be appreciated.

Norm

Reply to
NSN
Loading thread data ...

Save yourself the trouble. At some hardware stores & garden centers, I've found plastic replacement ends that are very rugged. I don't recall the brand name, but it's one of the makers of sprayers & other hose accessories. Green plastic - easy to spot on peg hangers. You cut off the metal end, and insert the replacement into the hose, which is a bitch unless you spit on it or apply just a little silicone spray or something similar. Then, you attach the supplied clamps around the outside of the hose. I've got 20 year old hoses I've fixed this way and the threads are still in good shape.

Buy extras when you find them.

Reply to
JoeSpareBedroom

Yep, replace the ends. Before heading to the store be sure to know the inside diameter of the hose - cut off the old end about an inch back and take your measurement. For an easy and safe-for-hose- material lubricant use some PAM (petroleum grease may breakdown the hose). Spit doesn't stretch very far and you may find yourself with the new end halfway on and stuc right there. Not fun.

Reply to
C & E

Thanks for the two replies. I have quite a few of those replacement ends .. both plastic and brass. HOWEVER !!! The internal surface of my hoses are hexagonal in shape .. not circular. Regardless of what type of repair product I use and regardless of how tight I clamp down .. they LEAK. I am 70 years of age and have been playing "repair the hose" most of my life with great success. These hoses just do not accept the repair "kits".

So, once again .. any idea of where I can get a re-threading die?

Norm

Reply to
NSN

Hi, Tried wrapping the repair fitting with some tapes and tighten with hose clamp?

Reply to
Tony Hwang

The threads do not seal the hose, only the gasket inside.

If screwing them together is what is rough and difficult, wire brush the male and female ends, them polish them with a little automobile wax.

If fresh gaskets do not seal the connections, you need new ends or a new hose.

-zero

>
Reply to
zero

Here is a fairly accurate (but not completely) rundown of threads for fuild connections

formatting link
this link has better (IMO) / overlapping descriptions

formatting link
the problem lies in that not all pipe thread is tapered, some is straight

garden hose thread is a slightly different animal (straight thread) larger OD than 3/4 pipe AND coarser thread!

formatting link
even more thread info..............

formatting link
To answer Norm's orignal question........

I struck out finding an "off the shelf" soultion

even at MSC.com (lot of special threads) I couldn't find it

you could give these guys a call, they might have it

formatting link

1-800-723-5359

If you've just gotta have one.........you could have it custom made

formatting link
or
formatting link
these guys had the GHT tap stock, but not the die :(

formatting link
cheers Bob

Reply to
BobK207

Why do we always get the "HOWEVER" after the fact? For the cost of a new die, you can buy a new 125 foot hose at WalMart with a 10 year gaurantee.

Reply to
Edwin Pawlowski

thank you.

Reply to
k

Norm I believe you will find it far easier to install a new hose end. The one shown at is probably your best option as it does not require an external clamp to hold it on the hose.

Reply to
Thomas Daniel Horne

Your regional forest fire depot has a set and if you ask them really nicely when there is nothing burning they will "chase" the threads for you. Garden hose threads are used in mop up kits.

Reply to
Thomas D. Horne, FF EMT

Garden hose threads are ANSI/ASME standard B1.20.7.

The designation is:

.75-11.5NH (cut, formed, or rolled), or .75-11.5NHR (thin wall formed).

See _Machinery's Handbook_ 26th edition, pp 1841-2.

I can't seem to find any sources for taps or dies, either.

Reply to
Richard J Kinch

Even better yet, go to Sears and buy one of their 'Craftsman' logo life time guarantee hoses. They're black, possibly real rubber, available in if I recall correctly, 50 and 75 foot lengths, and have beefy for real machined brass couplings... not the flimsy stamped sheet metal ones like most hoses today.

Check the packaging and make sure it has the 'Craftsman' logo and lifetime guarantee info on the packaging, as not all Sears hoses are lifetime.

They initially cost a few of bucks more, but unless lost or stolen, will be the last hose you buy. Sears is great about replacing worn out/damaged hoses without question, no receipt required! Through the years I've probably taken back 5 or 6 for various reasons... including one the gardner damaged with his mower. (I outright told them the reason for the damage to this one, and they still replaced it on the spot!)

The downside is they tend to rub what appears to be black oxidized rubber material off into your hands once they get to be a a few years old, but for the most part said material seems to flush off easy with just a little water.

Hose tip... if you coil your hose up on the ground, and space permitting, try laying it out in a figure '8' pattern. So stored, you can pick up the end, and pull the out hose full length kink free! Just keep the end from dropping through any of the figure eight end loops...

Erik

Reply to
Erik

As noted, you're probably not going to find a die or tap for a garden hose thread. The problem is, the male ends aren't cut threads anyway on anything except perhaps the brass NPT/hose adapters--they're formed. The female ends are so shallow that you would need a bottom tap and probably couldn't reach but a portion of the first thread, anyway, even if you had one.

The suggestion to simply clean up the surfaces seems best suggestion. If there is some real roughness perhaps the wire brush on the grinder might make it go a little quicker.

Reply to
dpb

Perhaps a thread repair file would do the trick; e.g.,

Reply to
Bennett Price

Actually, after I finished, I realized probably the easiest and best solution for the male threads would be some fine emory cloth. Since the male hose ends are formed, not cut anyway, they don't have sharp bottoms and it's more than likely just some rough edges on the end and the outer diameter from dragging exposed ends over concrete sidewalks, etc., that is the culprit. (Of course, that brings up the "don't do that!" mantra... :) )

Reply to
dpb

Good qustion.

For the cost of a new

But then he wouldn't get to buy a new tool.

Reply to
mm

The garden hose thread is considered a separate thread from pipe thread, however, 1/2 inch pipe (or is it 3/4? can't remember for sure right now and don't have one with me to look at) has the same thread count and diameter is close enough. OTOH, the thread itself is coarse enough that it isn't hard to do with a 3 corner file.

Reply to
lwasserm

THANKS to all for your replies. I did locate a die at

formatting link
by using their 800 number and giving them the above specs. They have two in stock which I left there since they wanted $136.00 plus shipping to be relieved of one of them.

As someone mentioned, I can replace all my hoses for that amount.

I do have a standard pipe re-threading set and used its file with the #12 grooves and it worked quite well but left a rough finish. I smoothed it out a bit with the wire brush I use on my BBQ and it ended up looking good. The problem I had before all this was that it would not screw into my plastic quick-disconnects without serious binding. All is well now helped a bit by silicone grease.

For those interested I did find an external threader (11.5) in the Mc Master catalog but it was $89.00. A bit better than $136 but still a bit expensive.

Again .. thanks to all.

Norm

Reply to
NSN

"There's no such thing as a tool I don't need."

Reply to
Sam E

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.