One of the springs is unwound but not broken. Looks like a the set screws
came loose. I Googled for info & only found lots of stuff on how to replace
the springs. Can I simply wind this spring back up? Should I unwind the
other first to make sure both springs are equal?
First a few questions.......
are you reasonably handy / mechanically inclined?
can you / have you worked successfully & safely with powerful tools
(table saw, chainsaw, firearms, etc) that if used incorrectly can hurt
or kill you (or others)?
check out this site
After reading it & you understand it & feel competent to rewind the
springs.....go for it.
Like others have posted, these things are powerful & can hurt you
(maybe even kill you)
Doing it yourself (alone) for the first time is not without risk.
Do'nt try it alone,,have a Friend with a phone..The one that's still
in place *should* be tensioned correctly,,the spiral lines on the one
that did'nt come loose *should be* the amount of spirals(painted
lines) for the other one too..That's how new ones are installed
anyway,,if for some reason the door needs different tension on one
side there could be some other problem..
Tensioning springs for a tall door for a Semi-tractor storage
unit from atop a 12' stepladder was a REAL adventure,,,then had to do
it again on the other end so the driver would'nt need to back out! The
Forman was telling stories of when He let a smaller one loose and had
to cut His long sleeve loose from the spring so He did'nt loose His
arm as I was winding! I'm glad I'm not the "Grunt" anymore!!
Use the proper extensins for the winding pegs and never release
pressure on the 1st while positioning the 2nd..Have the wrench to
tighten the set screw right there handy too,,inspect everything for
One slip and Yer a hurtin unit fer sure!! I agree with Whoever said
to call an overhead door guy,,it's good advice..
Oh no, not the dreaded garage door torsion spring question...
YOU"LL DIE !!!! Run from the house and don't go back until a highly
trained board certified vehicle entrance portal technician performs
the necessary repairs. Even then not until a thorough inspection has
been performed by local, county, state and federal inspectors.
I pretty much agree with the other posters on getting skilled labor,
I've done it twice, perhaps more out of ignorance and bravado than
knowledge and skill. My method is: 2 pieces of 1/2" rod 1 1/2 - 3'
long, (rebar will work but not ideal). As you wind, the upper bar is
inserted as soon as the hole is available, and serves as the next
pull / safety. They have to be way tighter than you imagine, and it is
indeed dangerous should you; lose your grip, have a rod slip out, or
have the spring or any part of the assembly let go while you are
working on it. I have usually tightened it as much as I imagined it to
need, tightened the set screws, put down the tools and done a run
through. That gave me an idea just how much additional tension was
Ok, ok. Looks like it's unanimous. I saw the info at
http://www.truetex.com/garage.htm and being quite mechanically inclined I
thought I might give it a go. I called around - looks like it's cost me
$200 - 300. Strange though how the spring did not break, it just popped off
the holder at the middle of the rod...
I did the same repairs. Simple safety precautions should get your
there. You do not need to unwind the other spring to wind up the
"sprung" one. You need two half inch diameter steel rods to fit into
the holes on the spring's boss and use those as levers to rewind the
spring. You can buy the rod from HD or Lowes. It is 30" or 36"
long, cut into two and they will provide a lot of leverage to wind
the spring with. The safety precaution is stand aside, away from the
arc of the rods, but in a comfortable and efficient (to crank the
levers) position. Should you somehow slip or let go of the rod the
backlash won't hit you. Also wear work gloves so that if you have to
take a rest while winding the spring you can ease the rods to a rest
position without getting your fingers pinched. Its a good idea to
have a friend to watch you in case you need temporary help hold the
rods while you catch your breath for example. Paint a straight line
across the spring before you start. As you wind the spring it will
develop a spiral and give you a good idea of how many turns you made.
The paint spiral should roughly match the other spring's. Make one or
two test runs, by doing a few turns without getting to any significant
tension, to get a good feel of how to manipulate the rods, tightening
the set screws and the cable, etc., Finally wind the spring as tight
as you can. Then tighten the set screws, run the cable, etc. and test
the door. Any unevenness in the spring tension will be obvious.
Increase or decrease the spring tension as necessary.
You're going to get this guy hurt. You don't know what you're talking
about, and it is glaringly obvious.
Don't "wind as tight as you can"!!! He can break the spring easily
that way, or worse increase the chance of a winding bar coming out and
There are 28 quarter winds (4 complete spring revolutions) on a 7'
high door, you multiply door height by four to calculate the quarter
Also, don't paint the spring! The paint will cause the individual
coils to stick together, resulting in bunching and rough operation.
Besides, you can not judge tension just by looking at it.
This is wrong also! The number of quarter turns is dictated by the weight
of the door AND the caliber / length of the spring. There are several
different calibers of springs, and the lengths are infinite.
"Coal Miner" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
You're both wrong. Full turns equal the height of the door travel, divided
by the drum circumference, plus about a half a turn. Opening the door with
insufficient winding will lead to slack cables hopping off the drums, and
then disaster, so the extra half turn is important.
The number of turns = door height / (drum diameter * pi).
Should be about 5 for most doors.
If you start with the door in the full up position, you
can get everything connected without tensioning the
springs. Then lower the door and increase the tension
to fit and suit. You should be able to readily lift
the door with one hand when it's adjusted correctly.
Tensioning the springs as much as possible may allow
launching the door into low Earth orbit.
On Tue, 6 Feb 2007 12:29:29 PST, snipped-for-privacy@mojaveg.IWVISP.com (Everett
M. Greene) wrote:
Your objective? You appear to be trying to arrange the
spring tension to be zero when the door's fully raised.
What you should be trying to do is match the spring
tension as closely as possible to the load that the
door puts on the spring through it's entire range
of motion, while never letting the sum of forces
be small enough (or negative) to let the door bind
when you're trying to let it down. That is,
if the door has an automatic hoist. If it's all
manual, then you need the spring to EXCEED the
applied weight of the door in the up position.
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