I am having a hard time trying to remember where I saw a project
involving garage storage. The main thing I remember about the
was that the shelf supports consisted of two boards (2x4 perhaps)
a triangular shaped rib from plywood forming a sort of I beam type
structure. From what I remember the article was in the last 3 years
but I can't recall the magazine I saw it in and I haven't had any
with google or searches of some of the magazine websites. I am
that this brief description is enough to trigger someone's memory.
About as easy as it gets:
Get a 4x8 1/2" or 3/4" plywood.
Frame around parameter with 2x4'
Add a 2x4 or 2 across the center of frame.
Bolt frame to wall studs in corner of garage (2 walls) with lag bolts.
Place the plywood on top and screw to frame.
Add a 2x4 or chain or metal braces going to ceiling on the unsupported
Can be modified for smaller shelves using 2'x8' or 2'x4' or whatever
For multiple stacked shelves run the corner 2x4 from ceiling to ground.
On Feb 22, 10:49 am, email@example.com wrote:
I've made 2 different types of shelfs for my garage.
One shelf is 3 feet deep and spans the entire width of the single car
garage. First I attached a 2 x 4 to the studs on the side walls. I
then made a framed "floor" from 2 x 4's with joists 3' OC,
perpendicular to the back wall. There's a single 2 x 4 across the back
and a double 2 x 4 in the front. I lifted the frame and laid it on the
2 x 4's attached to the side walls and screwed the back 2 x 4 to the
studs. I then laid 3/4" plywood on top of the frame. Finally I added a
length of steel strapping from a ceiling joist to the center of the
front beam for extra support. The shelf holds all my camping gear and
is strong enough for me to climb on top to get stuff. I positioned
the shelf high enough to drive the hood of a car underneath.
The other shelves are along the side walls. I screwed a 2 x 4 to the
inside face of a wall stud, perpendicular to the wall. I then cut 45's
off the ends of another 2 x 4 and lagged one end into the stud and the
other into the bottom of the 2 x 4 sticking out from the wall. Toss a
piece of ply across 2 (or more) of these, and you've got a shelf of
any width you want.
Add a 2 x 4 between the 2 angle supports and a cleat across the face
of the studs and you can put shelf on top and a narrower one below - 2
shelves from each assembly. I've got 6 shelves, all 4 feet wide, 3 of
which are 30" deep and 3 which are about 18".
That sounds simple enough and you can do it also with strong metal angle
brackets to a stud if that works visually for you.
Here's another I got a long time ago and works nicely in my somewhat crowded
garage for a craft table that can be lowered out of the way in winter to
make room for the car. It's perfect if you have a longish car and a
shortish garage so need that extra space at the end. This lets you use that
space for a table for crafting when you can leave the car out. Thats most
of the year where we are!
Skill level minimal but will need second person to hold things. Second
person can be a kid if they can hold up the parts for you while you nail.
Third person optional but easier. Mostly you need the extra person when
first attaching to the studs. This is a winner to intro kids to a little
project. Estimate 30 mins time.
Tools and parts: old solid wood door (not too warped) or other wood about
same size (28-32inches by 6ft roughly). 6-8ft of 2x3 or 1x2. 2-3 large
heavy duty long thin hinges with 4 or more nail holes each 'leaf' (one per
stud for the area that the door will hang, more is better). 2 smaller long
thin but heavy hinges for the 'legs'. Nails, hammer, saw, pencil or magic
Use an old (hopefully solid) wood door with a flat surface. You can use
plywood or pressboard also but they may be more prone to warpage over time.
Pressboard especially so.
Use 'worst side' as bottom. If there is a hole where a knob was, design so
that is towards the wall. Place door propped against wall and use marker or
pencil to mark where the heavy big hinges will attach to the studs. Attach
these to the 'door'.
Now lift door (need second person and 3rd is optimal) and attach hinges to
studs so that it swings down pretty much flush to the wall. How high
depends on how tall you (or wife) wants it for easy work. If she plans to
sew there, you'll want it low enough for a chair yet high enough to stand
and work a pattern on with comfort. If you are going to do much 'crafting'
there, please use a level to make sure you get it as even as you can.
Next, lift 'door' up and measure off 2 'legs' for each corner. 1x2 will
work but we used 2x3 as we had it. I held the door and Don used a level then
a pencil to mark the wood. Cut then using smaller hinges, attach these
pieces so they fold up towards the center. Depending on how high you went,
you may need to place one of the 'legs' inwards vs just at the corner so
they fold neatly without running into each other. When stowed flush to the
wall, this takes up about 3 inches but when folded out, gives a nice big
Now you have a fine little extra table for crafting, sewing, kids projects
that are messy, etc. If you have some old linoleum or sheet vinyl to glue
or nail on top, it becomes easy cleanup too and I've been known to use it
for rolling out bread dough after cleaning it up first since I have limited
Expansion ideas on this: If you plan to put a sewing machine on the table,
use 2 legs on each side (2 of them more towards the center and offset from
each other as above if needed). If using center legs (IE: 4 of them) get
some small 1/2 inch or so trim wood (anything spare you have laying around)
and use this nailed on the underside to 'bolster' the center legs so that
they will not sag in time when stowed since the legs are attached just with
hinges at the top. This makes a fine light crafting table but is not
suitable for really heavy equipment.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.