garage shelf project article???

I am having a hard time trying to remember where I saw a project involving garage storage. The main thing I remember about the project was that the shelf supports consisted of two boards (2x4 perhaps) with a triangular shaped rib from plywood forming a sort of I beam type structure. From what I remember the article was in the last 3 years but I can't recall the magazine I saw it in and I haven't had any luck with google or searches of some of the magazine websites. I am hoping that this brief description is enough to trigger someone's memory.
Thanks,
Jim
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Sorry that i am no help on locating the article, but I sugest you post this question over on
rec.woodworking
as well.
snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth.net wrote:

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snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth.net wrote:

About as easy as it gets: Get a 4x8 1/2" or 3/4" plywood. Frame around parameter with 2x4' Add a 2x4 or 2 across the center of frame. Bolt frame to wall studs in corner of garage (2 walls) with lag bolts. Place the plywood on top and screw to frame. Add a 2x4 or chain or metal braces going to ceiling on the unsupported corner. Can be modified for smaller shelves using 2'x8' or 2'x4' or whatever plywood. For multiple stacked shelves run the corner 2x4 from ceiling to ground.
Kevin
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On Feb 22, 10:49 am, snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth.net wrote:

I've made 2 different types of shelfs for my garage.
One shelf is 3 feet deep and spans the entire width of the single car garage. First I attached a 2 x 4 to the studs on the side walls. I then made a framed "floor" from 2 x 4's with joists 3' OC, perpendicular to the back wall. There's a single 2 x 4 across the back and a double 2 x 4 in the front. I lifted the frame and laid it on the 2 x 4's attached to the side walls and screwed the back 2 x 4 to the studs. I then laid 3/4" plywood on top of the frame. Finally I added a length of steel strapping from a ceiling joist to the center of the front beam for extra support. The shelf holds all my camping gear and is strong enough for me to climb on top to get stuff. I positioned the shelf high enough to drive the hood of a car underneath.
The other shelves are along the side walls. I screwed a 2 x 4 to the inside face of a wall stud, perpendicular to the wall. I then cut 45's off the ends of another 2 x 4 and lagged one end into the stud and the other into the bottom of the 2 x 4 sticking out from the wall. Toss a piece of ply across 2 (or more) of these, and you've got a shelf of any width you want.
Add a 2 x 4 between the 2 angle supports and a cleat across the face of the studs and you can put shelf on top and a narrower one below - 2 shelves from each assembly. I've got 6 shelves, all 4 feet wide, 3 of which are 30" deep and 3 which are about 18".
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.

That sounds simple enough and you can do it also with strong metal angle brackets to a stud if that works visually for you.
Here's another I got a long time ago and works nicely in my somewhat crowded garage for a craft table that can be lowered out of the way in winter to make room for the car. It's perfect if you have a longish car and a shortish garage so need that extra space at the end. This lets you use that space for a table for crafting when you can leave the car out. Thats most of the year where we are!
Skill level minimal but will need second person to hold things. Second person can be a kid if they can hold up the parts for you while you nail. Third person optional but easier. Mostly you need the extra person when first attaching to the studs. This is a winner to intro kids to a little project. Estimate 30 mins time.
Tools and parts: old solid wood door (not too warped) or other wood about same size (28-32inches by 6ft roughly). 6-8ft of 2x3 or 1x2. 2-3 large heavy duty long thin hinges with 4 or more nail holes each 'leaf' (one per stud for the area that the door will hang, more is better). 2 smaller long thin but heavy hinges for the 'legs'. Nails, hammer, saw, pencil or magic marker.
Use an old (hopefully solid) wood door with a flat surface. You can use plywood or pressboard also but they may be more prone to warpage over time. Pressboard especially so.
Use 'worst side' as bottom. If there is a hole where a knob was, design so that is towards the wall. Place door propped against wall and use marker or pencil to mark where the heavy big hinges will attach to the studs. Attach these to the 'door'.
Now lift door (need second person and 3rd is optimal) and attach hinges to studs so that it swings down pretty much flush to the wall. How high depends on how tall you (or wife) wants it for easy work. If she plans to sew there, you'll want it low enough for a chair yet high enough to stand and work a pattern on with comfort. If you are going to do much 'crafting' there, please use a level to make sure you get it as even as you can.
Next, lift 'door' up and measure off 2 'legs' for each corner. 1x2 will work but we used 2x3 as we had it. I held the door and Don used a level then a pencil to mark the wood. Cut then using smaller hinges, attach these pieces so they fold up towards the center. Depending on how high you went, you may need to place one of the 'legs' inwards vs just at the corner so they fold neatly without running into each other. When stowed flush to the wall, this takes up about 3 inches but when folded out, gives a nice big work surface.
Now you have a fine little extra table for crafting, sewing, kids projects that are messy, etc. If you have some old linoleum or sheet vinyl to glue or nail on top, it becomes easy cleanup too and I've been known to use it for rolling out bread dough after cleaning it up first since I have limited counterspace.
Expansion ideas on this: If you plan to put a sewing machine on the table, use 2 legs on each side (2 of them more towards the center and offset from each other as above if needed). If using center legs (IE: 4 of them) get some small 1/2 inch or so trim wood (anything spare you have laying around) and use this nailed on the underside to 'bolster' the center legs so that they will not sag in time when stowed since the legs are attached just with hinges at the top. This makes a fine light crafting table but is not suitable for really heavy equipment.
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