My reasons for using 2x2s rather than 2x4s was to minimize the end width
of the wall between the basement and the garage. Since the doorway is
currently mounted in the 8" foundation wall, adding 2x4s in a
conventional manner would result in a roughly 12" width. Starts getting
excessive in my opinion. If someone was to finish the inside wall as
well (I plan on leaving this part of the basement unfinished), using
2x4s there as well would make the wall width 16". Starts to feel like a
In the end, cost is not even factoring in the equation (well, may a
little, but definitely not the driver).
By biggest problem with the 2x2s was protecting the romex. But, as I
mentioned in the initial posting, I could run the romed flush against
the masonry wall, and just notch the back side of the 2x2s. This would
put the romex far enough back to meet the edge distance requirement.
But, would that be legal?
I was thinking about this today some more. If I go with the subpanel
idea (and the more I think about it, the more I like it...if for no
other reason than convenience), I may have to go the 2x4 approach
anyway. I'll just have to come up with a way to make the doorway look
less hallway-ish... :->
How often do garage door openers blow a circuit?
But if one does blow, you use a drop light from the wall outlets and to
do a repar
or a disconnect from the ighting circui, and you actualy have power from
outets to run tools that might be necessay to do a repair.
You put the openers on the lighing circuit because they are low current
only intermuittant use, unlike the freezer, the bench tools, the full
size tools, etc.,
which eventually end up in the garage.
It is planning ahead.
But you are such an antagonistic, obnoxious jerk, that never ocurred to
you, did it.
There's a good chance that the inspector will allow you to run
bare romex along the underside of the trusses. _Especially_ if you
intend to drywall the ceiling. In my case, I had 1x3 lath installed
for the ceiling. The inspector said I could run ordinary romex
perpendicular to the trusses stapled to the truss bottoms. I only
needed to put a chunk of lath on top of the existing lath whenever
the wire crossed a line of lath (when going parallel to the trusses)
so that the lath face-to-wire distance was > 1 1/4"). The existing
lath was deemed to be adequate mechanical protection from being hit
from below even before the drywall is installed (if ever ;-).
I think you'd be better off using at _least_ 2x3. Especially if you want
That's probably best.
Drilling trusses is a no-no. Best to find an alternate.
One is enough, make sure it's more than big enough.
[It can get stickier if it was for more than a foot or so.]
Note that all wall penetrations have to be well sealed. Including
Electrical code says 12" minimum separation when run parallel, and
cross only at 90% angles for low voltage wiring. You're not likely
to see an interference problem even if you do violate that _except_
possibly with the sensors. You might be able to minimize that if
each pair of wires is twisted. Better to avoid it.
Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
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