garage door opener too long

Can you shorten a chain driven garage door opener? I have 118" between wall and beam in center of garage and the opener is 124".
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If you are outside the adjustment specs, you would have to cut off the track and door won't fully open. Check out Wayne Dalton opener that goes above the door. They have a model that works with non Wayne Dalton doors.

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canncann wrote:

AFAICS the only thing limiting your shortening the rail would be the height of your garage door and the availability of the proper tools. But, if push came to shove, you might just get by with not pulling the door "entirely Up" and flat.
Chances are the rail is made up from several pieces for easier shipping, and you'll have to shorten one of those pieces and then drill some new holes in it where the fasteners go.
Shortening the chain is a no-brainer, if you don't have access to a "chain breaker" then just grind or file off the headed over "rivets" on the desdired link of the chain and pry the side plate off. You might need to pick up a "repair link" at the corner hardware store if you want to make a really neat job of things without disturbing the attachment of the cable which usually takes the place of the "slack part" of the chain.
Good Luck,
Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat \'57 EE)
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canncann wrote:

Don't see why not--depending on the design, how easy it might be may vary considerably. A t-track should be pretty straightforward, some of the tubular ones I've seen could be a little more tricky depending on the details of the mounting while others would basically be just sawing of the tube as one end simply slipped into a formed cup. Depending on the limit switch design, you might have to modify them a little to make the adjustment work although I would expect enough adjustment available. Assumes, of course, there's sufficient clearance for the raised door if the unit is located where it would end up being. Have to shorten either chain or cable too, of course.
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The difference is only 6". You should have no problem shortening the rail and chain. But couldn't you use a "quick-close" bracket and have the head of opener go under the support beam?
Rich http://www.garagedoorsupply.com
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You want to shorten the chain because the opener won't mount on the center beam? That will cause you problems.
What you want to do is add a beam by boxing one in between the existing beams. Put two pieces of 2x between them, then a piece between those two to form an "H". If you shorten the chain, the door will not fully open.
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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

If you shorten the chain, the door will not fully open.
I thought about that before suggesting he could go ahead, Edwin--in general, you're right, but in this case he's talking of 6" off the overall length and since the chain is doubled, it's only half that on travel. That much shouldn't be a real problem altho he should check clearance before proceding, obviously.
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in this case he's talking of 6" off the

Actually the travel will be 6" regardless. The trolley is connected to chain on one side of the rail, the chain and trolley must travel six inches over six inches of rail to raise the door six inches. The travel is not divided in half as you suggest. It's not a block and tackle system...
Rich http://www.overhead-garage-door.com

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