Just this week our Stanley garage door opener (age unknown) has
developed a problem. When trying to get the door to raise (via wall
button or remote) the door goes up about a 1.5 feet and stops. If I
pull up on the handle and apply just a little force as I activate the
remote it raises without a problem.
I was unable to find any obstructions. I tried oiling all the moving
parts on the door without success.
On the unit itself there are three controls: Up, Down, and
Sensitivity. The up and down controls only determine how high or low
the door goes. I did try messing with them and eventually set them
back to previous settings. I've decreased the sensitivity as low as
it will go to no avail.
Any help is appreciated.
Disconnect the door from the motor and see if it moves up and down
easily or if it binds at some point(s). Binding may indicate a dirty
track or broken wheels.
If the door moves freely, run the motor with the door still
disconnected. Does it seem to change speed at any point(s)? Did you
lube the track/screw/chain? If not, do so.
If all else fails, the motor may be about to fail.
Let me add two things. The door should, when disconnected from the
motor, lift about half way and stay without any help. If it wants to come
back down, the springs need to be adjusted.
You may also have a clutch adjustment on the motor that may be too
light. Don't over tighten it as that is a safety hazard and may damage the
door as well.
If the door works fine by hand you want to turn the sensitivity
higher. If you have to set it to max & it still doesn't work the board
is probably bad but replacement parts are hard to find. You should not
use the door on a regular basis w/ it set to max. If the door hits
anything it will do severe damage before reversing if it does at all.
Thanks for the replies. I lubed the pole the door mechanism slides on
and that fixed it (that was the only thing I didn't think to do in the
first place). I will turn the sensitivity back to where it was ASAP.
On 30 Oct 2003 17:38:56 -0800, email@example.com (Doordoc) wrote:
Not a good idea for a Stanley chain drive, which is meant to run its
pole and trolley 100% dry. If this is whatg you have, clean off every
trace of the lubricant because eventually dust will accumulate and
cause binding. Don't just wipe it off but by also wash it with a
degreaser that's safe for all plastics, such as alcohol or some
electronic parts cleaner sprays, although the polyester used for the
trolley tube should have no problems with brake parts cleaner. And do
be sure to clean the inside of the trolley tube.
I'd check the balance of the door and lubricate any pivot points
(1-piece doors) or the axles of any rollers.
If your Stanley has a 1" or larger diameter force adjustment knob on
the bottom, it may be a good idea to remove the cover (unplug AC
first) and inspect the black gearbox housing because it's made of
brittle polyester, and this is important since the safety force
mechanism uses a microswitch mounted on this housing, and if the
housing cracks there you'll have no safety mechanism left, except for
the time-out circuit.
firstname.lastname@example.org (Doordoc) wrote in message
They are? The only custom part is the microprocessor, but any rolling
code chip may need to be programmed before use (I'm not familiar with
them). But those parts rarely fail, and old Stanleys with the large
force adjustment knob and the safety clutch don't use computer chips
anyway, just 100% generic parts, like 4000-series CMOS chips for the
logic (I have a schematic somewhere for a 20-year-old Stanley board).
The main problems are cracked solder joints caused by motor vibration,
certain undersized resistors in the voltage regulator burning out
(later Stanleys went to an 7808 regulator), relay contacts going bad
(I'm sure you've tried the relay swap trick), and relay driver
transistors and coil diodes blowing from back EMF. I don't know about
the motor start capacitor.
do_not_spam email@example.com (do_not_spam_me) wrote in message
Many times in these postings one must make educated judgments on the
small amount of information given and my assessment could very well be
incorrect but it is based on 25+ years of experience and I have
expanded on my reasoning below. However, anyone certainly has the
right to disagree w/ my opinion and I certainly respect anyones
opinion and stiill to this day learn things from other people's points
The poster stated that he did not know the age of the opener and most
openers (in the US anyways) eliminated the spring loaded clutch & went
to counter revolution boards to reverse the opener & the sensitivity
adjustment is a pod or pods on the main board. By his description (set
to low)it sounded to me like he was adjusting a pod and not adjusting
It does not sound like a relay problem since they will not normally
"drop out" on their own once the motor starts to run. Usually when
they are bad they won't pull in at all or the contacts fuse together
and the operator will not run at all in at least one direction.
Actually garage door opener boards fail all the time & in some areas
the number one cause is lightning. Surges will normally fry parts on
boards but static charges usually will not leave a trace.
The capacitor is probably a 220 VAC w/ a MFD rating of somewhere in
the 35 to 55 range (don't remember the exact numbers) but it simply
gives the motor enough power to start and a bad one will not normally
cause a motor to stop once it has started either.
While someone w/ electronics knowledge could very well repair the
board themselves they most likely would not be able to have someone
else repair it for less money than a new board (Stanley boards are no
longer made & are difficult to find for many models).
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