Garage door opener and wall switch not working

Hi, my 15-year old garage door is not working: I tried different things, but it is not responding to either remote control or the button on the wall, though the light in the opener blinks.
Does anyone know what is going on? Would it be worth asking a service man to come check it out, or it is actually worth just replacing it with a new one?
Thanks a lot!
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Hilbert wrote:

Hi, What model? On the wall is it keypad or just a push button switch? Tried to reprogram the remote?
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try plugging the opener into a extension cord to a known good outlet. a good friend called me with a opener doesnt work, turned out a breaker had tripped....
try the easy stuff first
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On Wednesday, March 26, 2014 5:40:29 AM UTC-4, bob haller wrote:

The light would not be blinking if it was not getting power. As Oren suggested, I'd start with the photo sensors. Very common for a problem there, ie debris blocking the lens, knocked out of alignment, wire broken, etc to cause the symptom.
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On 3/26/14, 12:15 AM, Hilbert wrote:

On our opener, the blinking light means the photo sensors at the bottom of the tracks are malfunctioning, usually just because they got knocked out of alignment with each other.
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On 3/26/2014 8:32 AM, Retired wrote:

And the number of blinks may indicate more specifically what the problem is. Read the manual.
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On 3/25/2014 11:15 PM, Hilbert wrote:

Inspect the door and the track rails to make sure there isn't anything that could be blocking the door's progress. Check around the sensors, too, because even something as a minor as twig in front of the sensor could be detected as a block. If the sensor detects a block, it won't move the door.
Manually release the door from the opener. Open and close the door manually. Does it move easily? If not, check for obstructions and look carefully at the tracks while moving the door. The track may have come out of alignment and need adjusting, or just need a bit of lubricant to help the door move smoothly.
Next, with the opener still disengaged from the door, try running the opener. Does it run? If it does, there's a problem with the door or the frame, something that is triggering the sensor in the opener and keeping it from moving the door. Sometimes this can fixed just by making a minor change in the opener's travel or force adjustment settings, but it could be indicating a bigger problem with the door.
I once had an opener quit running only while connected to the door. The problem turned out to be a bent door frame. The part of the door frame the opener arm was attached to had slowly bent over the years to the point where the force needed to move the door exceeded the opener's force limit settings. The solution was to replace the bent section of door frame with a sturdier piece of steel.
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wrote:

I second all of that. You might just have a sticking mechanical interlock switch too. Unplug the opener and rotate the belt on the motor to open the door a little and try rocking it a bit to see if it starts working when you plug it back in. Unplugged, move each switch actuator and see if it clicks. There are usually at least 2.
Usually the photo eyes have a LED that indicates they are seeing each other. You can't just jumper out the photo eyes. The opener needs to actually be able to communicate with them.
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On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 11:15:02 PM UTC-5, Hilbert wrote:

but it is not responding to either remote control or the button on the wall , though the light in the opener blinks. Does anyone know what is going on? Would it be worth asking a service man to come check it out, or it is actu ally worth just replacing it with a new one? Thanks a lot!
My experience with the photo eye circuit stopping and then reversing the mo tor is that if you hold/continuously depress the pushbutton on the wall, yo u can force the door to go down. Of course, as soon as you let up on the p ushbutton, the door will go back up. When it gets all the way up, it does flash the light built into the opener itself to tell you why the door went back up..
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replying to Hilbert , Terry wrote:

it is not responding to either remote control or the button on the wall, though the light in the opener blinks.

come check it out, or it is actually worth just replacing it with a new one?

If neither the remote controls or wall mounted push button operate the opener ensure that its power cord is plugged into a working power outlet. If it is plugged in, test that there is power coming from the outlet, to do this plug in a known working appliance such as a hairdryer for example and switch it on, if it works you have power, if it does not the power outlet is the problem.
If you have power going to the opener and you can smell a burnt electrical odor, it is likely that the motor start capacitor is at fault, without special test equipment the only way to confirm this is to replace it.
If there has been thunderstorms recently the circuit board may have been damaged by lightning or a mains surge, this is not uncommon, inspect the board if you can see signs of burning (black marks) the board will need replacing, to prevent damage in the future fit a surge protector.
If you can hear the motor operating but the door is not moving it is likely that one of the nylon drive gears has worn and needs replacing. The problem could also be that the travel carriage teeth that engage with the screw drive have become worn, in this case you need to replace the trolley assembly.
http://www.teknuw.com/garage-door-repair-guide /
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n Tuesday, April 22, 2014 2:44:01 PM UTC-4, Terry wrote:

If there was no power going to the opener, the light wouldn't be blinking. The most common causue of a blinking light and the opener not operating is a problem with the safety sensors, debris being in the way or out of alignment.

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