garage door opener

[Claudia]

I have two garage door openers, one of them suddenly does not work. It's not the battery. Can you help me identify how to diagnose the problem?

Thanks.

Claudia

[Tom]

Check the "coding" of all the little switches in the case. Make sure it looks just like the one that works. Tom Work at your leisure!

[Curmudgeon]

Doesn't work how? Doesn't work with the remote? Doesn't work with the wall switch? Doesn't work with either?

[SteveB]

Yes, no, maybe, and it depends ........................

What kind of opener is it? Intellicode openers and other programmable openers can be reprogrammed by reading the instructions, and they can be downloaded if you have lost yours.

If it is one of the simpler ones, they have about ten little switches in them that look like light switches. But they are inside a case, and I don't see how those codes could have been changed. Has anyone opened the opener? If they changed the code at the master unit, BOTH of the hand openers wouldn't work.

It is interesting that one of them doesn't work. See if it can be reprogrammed. If not, throw it against a hard surface, like a brick wall. It still won't work, but it will let out some of the anxiety.

Steve

[Rich]

[Claudia]

| | >I have two garage door openers, one of them suddenly does not work. It's | >not the battery. Can you help me identify how to diagnose the problem? | >

| >Thanks. | >

| >Claudia | >

| Check the "coding" of all the little switches in the case. Make sure it looks | just like the one that works. Tom | Work at your leisure!

It does not have little switches. I opened the case, and it has a very simple looking circuit board and a battery.

Claudia

[Claudia]

| > Thanks. | >

| > Claudia

Does not work with the remote.

Claudia

[Claudia]

| > Thanks. | >

| > Claudia | >

| >

| | Yes, no, maybe, and it depends ........................ | | What kind of opener is it? Intellicode openers and other programmable | openers can be reprogrammed by reading the instructions, and they can be | downloaded if you have lost yours. | | If it is one of the simpler ones, they have about ten little switches in | them that look like light switches. But they are inside a case, and I don't | see how those codes could have been changed. Has anyone opened the opener? | If they changed the code at the master unit, BOTH of the hand openers | wouldn't work.

It does not have little switches. I opened the case of the remote (which is what doesn't work - the wall switch works fine) and it just has a circuit board and a lithium battery. | | It is interesting that one of them doesn't work. See if it can be | reprogrammed.

I tried reprogramming it, but it still doesn't work.

| If not, throw it against a hard surface, like a brick wall. | It still won't work, but it will let out some of the anxiety.

I have not tried this option yet. But it sounds good.

| | Steve | |

Thanks,

Claudia

[Claudia]

Sears.

| Does your operator make any type | of clicking or humming sounds?

No.

| Does your operator work from the wall button?

Yes.

Incidentally, in case I miscommunicated, it's the remote switch that doesn't work.

Thanks.

Claudia

[HA HA Budys Here]

No dip switches inside the remote means it's the opener that needs to learn the remote code, not the remote that needs to learn the opener's code.

Follow the original programming instructions for the opener. Something like, press a button on the actual opener (might be behind an access door) and labeled "program" or "learn", usually the GDO light will flash to acknowledge it's ready to learn the code. Then press the button on the remote to "teach" the opener that's a valid code. Lights flash again to ackmnowledge it's received the signal and learned it.

Viola.

[Jim Yanik]

"Claudia" wrote in news:fwCJc.37159$ [e-mail]:

Sure it has switches,they're very small ones.Little square ones with a tiny nub on top,about 1/4 inch sq.Compare the case half that has the buttons with the components on the circuit board,you'll find them.They do wear out.

[Jim Yanik]

"Claudia" wrote in news:YwCJc.37160$ [e-mail]:

What does the *operator manual* for the opener say? (Maybe you need to get one from Sears,they should have them)

[Doordoc]

If the LED light on the opener next to the smart (program) button on the opener doesn't flash when you push the transmitter button the transmitter isn't sending a signal. Check the battery again to make sure it is in right side up (writing on top) & being held tightly in place. You should also test the battery to make sure it is not dead also if you haven't already done so. After all that if it still doesn't work, replace the transmitter.

If the LED light flashes when you push the transmitter button the transmitter works but it sounds like you have rolling code transmitters & the one lost it's rolling code capabilities (learned that from someone in one of these groups). If you erase the memory by holding the smart button you would be able to program in the non-working transmitter. However, the transmitter that works now will no longer work & you will not be able to program it into the opener until you erase the memory again. Openers will not accept rolling code & non-rolling code at the same time. Unfortunately there is no fix for the problem other then replacing the now non-rolling code transmitter.

Doordoc

[Claudia]

| >| | >| >I have two garage door openers, one of them suddenly does not work. | >| >It's not the battery. Can you help me identify how to diagnose the | >| >problem? | >| >

| >| >Thanks. | >| >

| >| >Claudia | >| >

| >| Check the "coding" of all the little switches in the case. Make sure | >| it | > looks | >| just like the one that works. Tom | >| Work at your leisure! | >

| > It does not have little switches. I opened the case, and it has a | > very simple looking circuit board and a battery. | >

| > Claudia | >

| >

| >

| | Sure it has switches,they're very small ones.Little square ones with a tiny | nub on top,about 1/4 inch sq.Compare the case half that has the buttons | with the components on the circuit board,you'll find them.They do wear out.

No it does not have dip swithces.

| | -- | Jim Yanik | jyanik-at-kua.net

[Claudia]

| >| > Thanks. | >| >

| >| > Claudia | >

| > Does not work with the remote. | >

| > Claudia | >

| >

| >

| >

| | What does the *operator manual* for the opener say? | (Maybe you need to get one from Sears,they should have them)

To reprogram, which I did.

| | -- | Jim Yanik | jyanik-at-kua.net

[Claudia]

| >| > Thanks. | >| >

| >| > Claudia | >| >

| >| >

| >| | >| Yes, no, maybe, and it depends ........................ | >| | >| What kind of opener is it? Intellicode openers and other programmable | >| openers can be reprogrammed by reading the instructions, and they can be | >| downloaded if you have lost yours. | >| | >| If it is one of the simpler ones, they have about ten little switches in | >| them that look like light switches. But they are inside a case, and I | >don't | >| see how those codes could have been changed. Has anyone opened the | >opener? | >| If they changed the code at the master unit, BOTH of the hand openers | >| wouldn't work. | >

| >It does not have little switches. I opened the case of the remote (which is | >what doesn't work - the wall switch works fine) and it just has a circuit | >board and a lithium battery. | >| | >| It is interesting that one of them doesn't work. See if it can be | >| reprogrammed. | >

| >I tried reprogramming it, but it still doesn't work. | >

| >

| >| If not, throw it against a hard surface, like a brick wall. | >| It still won't work, but it will let out some of the anxiety. | >

| >I have not tried this option yet. But it sounds good. | >

| >| | >| Steve | >| | >| | >

| >Thanks, | >

| >Claudia | | No dip switches inside the remote means it's the opener that needs to learn the | remote code, not the remote that needs to learn the opener's code. | | Follow the original programming instructions for the opener. Something like, | press a button on the actual opener (might be behind an access door) and | labeled "program" or "learn", usually the GDO light will flash to acknowledge | it's ready to learn the code. Then press the button on the remote to "teach" | the opener that's a valid code. Lights flash again to ackmnowledge it's | received the signal and learned it. | | Viola.

Mine doesn't flash. I think I need a new transmitter. Thanks. |

[Claudia]

| > | > Thanks. | > | >

| > | > Claudia | > | >

| > | >

| > | | > | Yes, no, maybe, and it depends ........................ | > | | > | What kind of opener is it? Intellicode openers and other programmable | > | openers can be reprogrammed by reading the instructions, and they can be | > | downloaded if you have lost yours. | > | | > | If it is one of the simpler ones, they have about ten little switches in | > | them that look like light switches. But they are inside a case, and I | > don't | > | see how those codes could have been changed. Has anyone opened the | > opener? | > | If they changed the code at the master unit, BOTH of the hand openers | > | wouldn't work. | >

| > It does not have little switches. I opened the case of the remote (which is | > what doesn't work - the wall switch works fine) and it just has a circuit | > board and a lithium battery. | > | | > | It is interesting that one of them doesn't work. See if it can be | > | reprogrammed. | >

| > I tried reprogramming it, but it still doesn't work. | >

| >

| > | If not, throw it against a hard surface, like a brick wall. | > | It still won't work, but it will let out some of the anxiety. | >

| > I have not tried this option yet. But it sounds good. | >

| > | | > | Steve | > | | > | | >

| > Thanks, | >

| > Claudia | | If the LED light on the opener next to the smart (program) button on | the opener doesn't flash when you push the transmitter button the | transmitter isn't sending a signal. Check the battery again to make | sure it is in right side up (writing on top) & being held tightly in | place. You should also test the battery to make sure it is not dead | also if you haven't already done so. After all that if it still | doesn't work, replace the transmitter.

The LED light doesn't flash. I tried the battery on my other transmitter, and it works fine - so I doubt that it is the battery. And it appears to be positioned correctly and held tightly in place. I guess there is nothing elese to do but replace the transmitter? | | If the LED light flashes when you push the transmitter button the | transmitter works but it sounds like you have rolling code | transmitters & the one lost it's rolling code capabilities (learned | that from someone in one of these groups). If you erase the memory by | holding the smart button you would be able to program in the | non-working transmitter. However, the transmitter that works now will | no longer work & you will not be able to program it into the opener | until you erase the memory again. Openers will not accept rolling code | & non-rolling code at the same time. Unfortunately there is no fix for | the problem other then replacing the now non-rolling code transmitter. | | Doordoc |

Thanks.

Claudia

[clifto]

I hope you switched the existing batteries to be sure "it's not the battery" and are not depending on a new battery being good. I hope also that you checked to make sure the battery is installed in the right direction (EVERYONE makes that mistake, CHECK IT!) and making proper contact with the springy metal contacts.

Put an AM radio next to the remote; turn it on and tune it to the low end (540 rather than 1600) of the band. You should hear noises from the radio when you push the button. If you do, odds are better than even that it's still working.

You say you reprogrammed; I presume that means you held the remote button on for a while as you pushed and held a button on the opener body.

[Jim Yanik]

"Claudia" wrote in news:k4RJc.37360$ [e-mail]:

What I described are not dipswitches,they are miniature PB(pushbutton) switches. At least on my remote for my car alarm. You -do- press a button on the remote to activate the opener? I'm suggesting the PB switch may be worn out or intermittent.

your coding is probably fixed,by cutting PCB traces.There may be a pattern of 'jumpers' and some of them are cut,that's your coding.

Or your opener has to learn the code from the remote,then you must follow the manual's directions to re-initialize the coding,because you have a randomizing code system(code-hopping) to prevent others from reading your opener code and entering while you are away.

[frank roarty]