Garage door issue

Earlier this year (winter), one side of the torsion springs broke on my garage door. My wife works for a contractor and had one of their garage contractor replace the springs. A week or so went past before I realized when the opener would open the door, as it approached the full open position, the door would shake the mount, opener, etc. as if it had much force behind it. I decided to check the balance of the doors and set the tensions of the springs. Everything appears to be balanced and intact, but was still landing hard at that same spot. Just last week, the door began to stop midway while opening. When I first noticed it, it would stop about a foot before fully opened. Then it stopped about midway a few times and now, it stops after opening about a foot from the ground. If I release the door, the opener will complete the cycle, but when I reattach the door, the problem occurs. Therefore, my guess is the door is the cause which could be binding up, too heavy, etc.. But lifting the door manually doesn't appear to hang up anywhere and as I stated above, it's balanced. Therefore, I'm dumbfounded to the cause.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Thank you
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If it's balanced as you say, and moves freely with the opener detached, there's only a couple things left. 1. The motor is failing. 2. The chain or worm is binding. Check if the spring guy moved the opener chain/worm rail off-center. You might also test the pulling force of the motor manually, but be careful. Otherwise it might be time to replace the opener.
--
Vic

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On 6/24/2012 9:23 AM, Vic Smith wrote: ...

3. The two springs aren't equally adjusted even though overall tension counterbalances weight...
4. Hinges are binding
5. Track alignment is amiss or rollers/etc. are worn to point of causing misalignment/binding...
6. Variations of any/all of the above...
--



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I'd add to the above list:
The force limit may need to be adjusted on the opener. The ones I've seen had one for the down force and one for the up force. It's a safety mechanism to stop the door if it encounters too much resistance. If it's set too low, just normal opening could stop it.
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wrote:

1. I'll keep that one in mind. 2. I don't think it's the gears as I replaced them last November.
The rail doesn't appear to be off center. It sits within a notch at the door end and thus, would be very noticeable.
How do I check the pulling force?

Torsion springs have the white painted line on them to determine rotation amount. I made sure both sides are equal to ensure one spring isn't working harder than the other.

I'll check 4, 5 and 6. Thanks

I'll check that as well. Thank you
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Meanie wrote:

Hi, Did they replace only broken one spring? Something is not in alignment.
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Both springs were replaced and equal in rotation. It's never a good idea to replace one side when there are two or more.
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Are you saying that with the opener completely disconnected from the door that the door goes up and down the full amount of travel without any great effort in either direction and no signs of binding during the complete distance of travel up and down and back up??
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news:d297d313-cf50-4c41-9b14-
Are you saying that with the opener completely disconnected from the door that the door goes up and down the full amount of travel without any great effort in either direction and no signs of binding during the complete distance of travel up and down and back up??
Correct.
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wrote in message

OK - Have you run the opener from one end to the other end of its travel, in both directions several times? Any hint of binding as the traveler goes back and forth? Is it a chain drive or a screw drive? Is the connecting link from the chain/screw traveler to the door itself well-lubricated, that's easily overlooked.
Yes, several times.
No binding.
Chain.
Yes, well lubricated.
Update is following.
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On Sunday, June 24, 2012 6:43:07 AM UTC-7, Meanie wrote:

Inside your garage door opener, do you have one of these
http://ddmgaragedoors.com/parts/images/OGG-DG1.jpg
thats busted?
On Sunday, June 24, 2012 6:43:07 AM UTC-7, Meanie wrote:

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On Sunday, June 24, 2012 6:43:07 AM UTC-7, Meanie wrote:

Inside your garage door opener, do you have one of these
http://ddmgaragedoors.com/parts/images/OGG-DG1.jpg
thats busted?
Nope, I replaced that and other internal parts the past November. It still looks good and still well lubricated.
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I thank you all for your suggestions. I followed all advice and checked EVERYTHING which was suggested.
Rollers, hinges and other misc moving parts on the door itself are well lubricated and appear to be in good working order.
Gears, chain, chain sprocket, guide rail, etc. on the opener are also in good working order, well lubricated.
Two things I did.
1. The "up force" setting has a range in low, medium and high. It was on the low range about 3/4. I set it to about 3/4 on medium. 2. The up travel limit switch was set far to high. I reset it about an inch before it hits the end. This eliminated the bouncing/shake effect when fully opened.
Results: the door is traveling fine thus far. Perhaps it was the force setting, which I didn't even think about until it was suggested here. Therefore, that could have been the problem.
Overall, I rechecked the door balance and the bottom of the door at waist high (two panels vertical and two panels on the curve to horizontal), it remained in place. At about knee high (three panels vertical and one panel horizontal), it dropped slowly, but I could get it to stay and pulling completely open when the last panel is vertical and three are horixontal, it pulled all the way up.
I try to keep the door well maintained every year and sometimes it still puzzles me and sometimes I overlook the obvious. Your suggestion help me in both manners.
Thank you all again. I'll see how it performs from here.
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It should be good thru the summer, next winter at zero temps will be the next test<g>.
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On Sunday, June 24, 2012 7:38:00 PM UTC-4, Meanie wrote:

Think maybe the door contractor futzed with the force setting on the door opener after he replaced and adjusted the springs?
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This just happened to me.
Open the case and examine that big ol' cheesy nylon gear inside that was probably ripped to shreds trying to open a non-tensioned door. You'll see little white particles all over the inside if it self-destructed
Then go to Amazon.com and buy a new one. Heck buy a few, they're cheap (and cheaply made), and replace it yourself. It's not hard. You can find instructions on the web.
BTW, dont ever run the opener without lubricating that gear. Dont ask me how I know.
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