I actually started my first reply this morning before all other posts
& your replies.....I should checked for posts before I continued with
wrt 5/8 vs 1/2 and 16" o/c vs 24" oc..........
1/2" is fine for 16" o/c, however, the jump to 24" increases the
deflection by 3.4 times
24" is even a bit of stretch for 5/8" based on span & drywall
thickness (stiffness)...5/8" drywall at 24" o/c would delfect 1.7
times as much as 1/2" at 16"..... the 24" span is the killer.
the debris I speak of is usually (in my attics) windborne debris and
wasp nests that fall from the rafters...if anything bigger than 1/8"
get between the bottom of the joists & the drywall...the drywall will
suffer upon re-seating.
I'm a little stumped when you call the members "joists" .......are
they really the bottom chords of roof trusses?
Those 1x4's that you plan to attach flat to the ceiling aren't going
to do much at all........
imo, a waste of time & material plus they would look rather odd &
complicate the painting process forever.
I think you'd be disappointed with the results
Blocking at 16" o/c between the trusses(?) would help a whole lot more
than 1x4's...but more work since you really should "take out the sag"
locally prior to screwing the drywall to the blocks.
Blocking would be much less effective than some sort of continuous
member (which is even harder to implement).
It seems that attic access is much easier than garage flor space.
Its a question of "cost of quality vs cost of non-
conformance".....how important is a flat / un-wavy ceiling in the
garage, how bad is it really? I might just re-attach, mud, prime &
paint...forget the structural mods.
$150 worth of drywall plus a lot hanging, taping, mudding &
sanding...priming & paint
to R & R it all is a lot work.
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