Garage ceiling


I have 4 foot spaced trusses. I am thinking of using white metal siding like what is on the outsid eof my building inside for the roof. (29 guage). What do you think? I will have to figure out how to lift them up by myself and what would be the best way to protrude my ceilign outlets. (I have 10 of them in the ceilign for my plug in shop lights.)
Would you use metal like this on the walls too? I would think it might make it harder to heat/cool I dont know.
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I used metal in my garage/shop. I love it. I did it in 14' pieces so that a friend and I could lift it to screw it in. Once you get a couple screws in, no problem with it hanging. My wife and I did the walls. They are 10' high. Easy. Cutting out for the lights and such takes a little time, but well worth it. You can order the metal in lengths in 1 inch increments. I overlapped mine, but if you rent a drywall lift, you could do it yourself and wouldn't have to overlap, but it may be more critical when cutting out for lights and plugs.
The big benefits is you don't have to finish it, never paint it and washes off easily. If damage occurs, just replace one panel in about 10 minutes.
Hank
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stryped wrote:

If you insulate properly behind it, it shouldn't be a problem heating it.
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On 4/23/2010 3:20 PM, stryped wrote:

This will work fine. it's done a lot in my area. AND blow insulation on top. As for the outlets, well take the boxes off the wire, drill holes , poke the wire through, the mount the boxes on the metal and reconnect the outlets.
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Are you saying to surface mount the electrical outlets? One problem is my studs are on two foot centers.
One question, does the metal make everythign louder? (using loud tools, etc.)
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stryped wrote:

That would be a likely result.
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If you're talking about the walls.........you'll have to run horizontal furring strips if you want the metal ridges go vertical (like pole barns) which will look better and the ridges in the metal won't collect dust. Depending on how high your walls are, you probably won't need more than 3 horizontal furring strips running around the walls.
It would be easier to flush-mount the outlets. That way you can place them in-between the ridges. If you don't flush mount them, you'll have to cut out the ridges which is a pain in the ass and wont' look right anyway.
You should be able to run the ceiling without furring strips without any problem and will look good too. Again, flush mounting is easier for lights and outlets.
My ceiling has blown in insulation and the walls have batts. No increase in sound volume that I can detect, but I am going deaf anyway. :-)
Hank
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What about my electrical panel that is currently flush mounted between studs?
I thought about either doing the walls in drywall or metal. The roof definietly metal. How would the walls meet the ceiling? Do you have any pictures?
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For the ceiling.........
I hung the ceiling first. Then I installed "J" channel for the wall metal to slide up-into. This will trim out the ceiling and also the top of the walls. Looks good. You can buy metal J channel or you can use vinyl. Vinyl is a little tighter, but works and looks just fine. I used vinyl because I got it for free.
If the walls are standard 4" 2x4 on 8" block, you can buy whatis called "Rat Guard" for the bottom. It is the same stuff they use on barns and sold at the same place you get your Metal.
Electrical Panel..........again, just trim around the panel with J cahnnel.
J channel is your friend. :-)
I don't have any pics. I guess I could take some if you really need them. I would need your email address.
Hank <~~~thinks metal is the only way to go
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I dont quite understand the electrical panel. Mine is flush mnounted . How wyou you use corregated metal with the tall ridges?????
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You would terminate the panels in a J trim.
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I would have to see exactly what you are dealing with. You may have to move the panel, or maybe just frame around it, then trim it out. I really can't help you without looking at it.
Hank
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My panel is already mounted between studds. It has been inspected and everything electrical done. I hat to do a new box just to surface mount.
I guess I can surface mount the electrical outlets and switches.
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You can always frame in around it with either J channel or wood trim or something. If all the wires are coming into the box from the top, just unscrew it and move it up and out. I am sure there is a simple way to do it.
Hank
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On 4/24/2010 8:53 AM, stryped wrote:

yes, just use handy boxes and surface mount them with sheet metal screws and then put on metal cover plates. make sure you ground the box.
if you put insulation on top, i don't think you'll notice any noise difference. If you don't, it may make some noise if you make a big enough noise to make the metal rattle.
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replying to stryped, grfass wrote:

I'm currently getting ready to put up a metal ceiling on 4 ft. center trusses across my garage. Does anyone see any problems with spanning the metal across 4 foot centers. Thanks.
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Do you mean as in aluminum foil or do you mean metal as in 1 inch steel plates or perhaps you mean something in between!
Me thinks we need some more details.
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On Fri, 25 Apr 2014 02:29:06 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03

You will need to strap it to 2 foot centers, minimum, or it will sag pretty badly. Lots of shops have profiled roofing or barn siding for lining. Bright and easy to keep clean.
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On Friday, April 23, 2010 4:20:34 PM UTC-4, stryped wrote:

is it part of a attached garage, to home?
if so it must be fireproof, so a garage fire is contained to the garage and exhaust gasses cant migrate into living spaces.
if its a detached garage these items wouldnt matter so much
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I would install wood strapping perpendicular to the bottom of the trusses, then install regular drywall. It should be less expensive, easier to install (cutting around outlet boxes and whatnot), and easier to repair if damaged.
You can rent a drywall lift to raise the sheets tight against the ceiling so you can screw them to the strapping.
I would also take the time to install wiring and insulation if you haven't done so already. It's a small cost and effort now, but it would be a big job if you need to do it later.
Anthony Watson www.watsondiy.com www.mountainsoftware.com
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