Garage ceiling


I have trusses on four foot centers. I plan on installinf between the trusses 2x4 material every 4 feet so I can hang drywall or some other board for a ceiling. My idea is to install these boards flat rather than on edge so I can use r-30 insulation which is 30 inches wide. Also, there are some places where I have wire that is in the way if I put the boards on edge. I plan to nail or screw each end of these boards between the bottom chord of the trusses.
I know the edge of the board is stronger than when layed flat. WIll I have trouble with sagging? SHould I also space every 2 feet or will 4 be enough?
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Why do you keep posting the same crap? This is the fourth or fifth thread you've started on your fookin' ceiling.
You've had a lot of people weigh in that you _can't_ just add weight to the bottom chord of a truss without knowing if it is designed for it. You can't...unless you want to find out the hard way what happens when the bottom chord of a truss lets go.
People cautioned you about adding the load and gave you alternatives for a lighter ceiling assembly.
What is the point of your asking for advice and then ignoring it and asking the same question? Are you "answer shopping" until you get the one you want to hear?
R
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RicodJour wrote:

You don't remember his bed thread? Or the one about joining on a router table? I see a pattern... :)
--

dadiOH
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Thread subject should be
Garage ceiling - Part II
OR
Garage ceiling - revisted
btw did you follow up on / execute on the last batch of suggestions?
what did the engineer, builder, desginer have to say?
Can the trusses handle the extra load? What is your plan to strengthen the trusses?
do oyu have any technical or practical skills? are we going to see your collapsed garage ceiling / roof on TV?
I cant see your garage from here
cheers Bob
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2x4s will sag with the weight of the dry wall if used that way. You need to use them edgewise. Others who have mentioned that trusses are not always engineered to support a load from the bottom are correct. You might be able to build a short cripple wall and attach it between the trusses at 90 deg. At least that way you'd be able to nail to the top of the truss as well as the bottom. Don't know if 5/8 wall boad would sag inside a 4'x4' opening.
What is above the trusses? That's quite a spacing. You don't have a floor system above them do you?
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I put 1' x 4' 2" thick styrofoam panels in aluminum suspended ceiling channels, and got insulation and a white ceiling in one swoop. I did have to vent the space above the panels with a vent in the gable end of the garage ceiling area. It works great. With insulation in the walls, the garage stays above freezing in outdoor temps down to zero.
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hr(bob) snipped-for-privacy@att.net wrote:

Hope you never get a fire in there....
-- aem sends...
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There so much else flammable in the garage that by the time it gets to the ceiling it is already a disaster. This garage is alongside the house.
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wrote:

I put 1' x 4' 2" thick styrofoam panels in aluminum suspended ceiling channels, and got insulation and a white ceiling in one swoop. I did have to vent the space above the panels with a vent in the gable end of the garage ceiling area. It works great. With insulation in the walls, the garage stays above freezing in outdoor temps down to zero.
Not very bright , probably illegal , and against insurance regs....
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stryped wrote:

Yes but use 5/8' drywall, first across the joists, then a second layer with the joists. Get lots of hooks so you can hang lots of stuff up there. The heavier the better. What you have are super trusses! The more weight on them the stronger they get! You can even throw a chain up there so you can pull your car engine yourself. Also on the outside, cover your shingles with 3 more layers of shingles. 1 layer isn't enough to hold the drywall. 3 layers of shingles will give it more strength. Take these instructions to your architect to be verified first.
Is that the answer you are waiting for? Well you got it!
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