Gap at bottom of door

[Rick Greenspoon]

I'm in the process of re-painting my front door and adjusting the glass pane in the door.

When I took off the bottom cover on the door I discovered yet another trick the builder used to cut costs and rip me off.

There is A GAPING ONE INCH GAP between the bottom of the door and the metal panel that it closes onto !!!

The plastic cover at the bottom of the door has served little more than a visual finishing. Cold and noise have obviously been coming in through that gap for years.

I don't know what type of door it is metal/wood? But whatever is the cheapest available, that's it! :(

I would like to close that one inch gap as best as possible.

Would anyone be able to suggest the best method?

TIA

[clare]

Take the door off and screw/glue a piece of wood on the bottom to fill the gap, then re-install the plastic "sweep"

[Ed Pawlowski]

Probably not anywhere near as bad as you say. The cover is designed to do exactly what it did, fill in the gap. "Expanders" are quite common on some door styles.

Take the door off and glue a piece of wood in place, or, fill it with insulation and put it back using the same screw holes. That is probably the best bet as you don't know metal from wood.

[hrhofmann]

My thoughts exactly - anyone who can't tell the difference between metal and wood probably shouldn't be trying to do anything this complicated

[GoogaICQ]

Thanks! So you're saying that noise wouldn't be making its way in through that gap? It is my understanding that open gaps, windows etc. are the prime culprits for letting noise into a house.

[Ed Pawlowski]

Perhaps a tiny bit, but not all that much. Air gaps also make better insulation than many solid materials.

[fred.flintstone]

I always try to help people, and in most cases suggest DIY rather than calling a professional. But if the OP can not tell the difference between wood and metal, he really should call a pro carpenter. I mean, COME ON, EVEN A MORON SHOULD KNOW THE DIFFERENCE.

[dpb]

On 7/1/2012 9:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote: ...

Maybe it's neither... :)

--

[clare]

Yea, mine's fiberglass.

[LdB]

LdB

[clare]

Air gaps DO make good insulation as long as there is no air FLOW. It is the air trapped in fiberglass and sryrofoam insulation that gives the insulation value, not the glass or styrene.

[GoogaICQ]

I'm not sure what I've got but whatever it is, it's not very solid. When I took the window out I could see styrofoam filling almost the entire door, except for a 16th" or 32nd" sheet of metal on either side.

Does one call that a metal door, or a styrofoam door? :)

[GoogaICQ]

OK now I could use your help once again. I'm trying to put the hardware back on the door and am having a really tough time putting the main door handle back on.

The two screws that hold the handle are relatively shallow and I can't find the holes! I believe I got one of the two on, but I can't get the second bugger on!

I've been working on it for almost a half hour now. :(

[clare]

That is your classic "insulated metal" door. It has a wooden frame around the outside, and a wooden block where the latches fit.

[clare]

You need to line it up carefully, because the screws going throughthe inside knob or latch mounting plate screw into threaded tubes on the outer half. If not lined up perfectly you totally miss the tiny hole in the almost as tiny tube. You want to line everything up visually, using a flashlight if necessary, then start BOTH screws before attempting to tighten either one. Usually a minute or two does it once you get it figured out.

[GoogaICQ]

Fascinating! :)

[Ed Pawlowski]

What is funny is your lack of reading comprehension. Did I say Open? No. I said AIR gap. if the channel on the bottom of the door is hollow, it would be an air gap and provide insulation. Look up how insulation works.

[Ed Pawlowski]

That qualifies as a metal door. The foam is sandwiched between the metal and everything is rigid and it is well insulated.