furnace blowing all the heat up the chimney

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snipped-for-privacy@rochester.rr.com wrote: ...

Well, DOH!!! Nice and toasty down there, I'd wager...
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Standard procedure in a full basement is to use bare, uninsulated ducts. I'm 100 miles or more north of Rochester in Ontario - 50,000/75000 BTU (2 stage) 80% efficiency furnace keeps my 1300 =/- sq ft house warm for under $700 a year.AFAIK it has never kicked up to high rate.The 600 sq ft basement is also heated.
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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Well, certainly isn't here and it gets pretty cold as well...0F and below pretty common...
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Yup. Deliberate too. It's to protect the pipes from freezing.
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cshenk wrote:

Well, here it isn't--they'll duct it normally w/ vents in used space. Seems a terrible waste otherwise to heat w/o any control all that volume.
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dpb wrote: ...

Anything built in the last 20 years or so anyway, that is. Back in the 60s and earlier one saw lots of things done that make no sense whatsoever under today's operating costs. That sorta' changed in the 70s and by 80s pretty much gone around here.
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Nope, it's actually COLDER.
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That's not good.
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snipped-for-privacy@rochester.rr.com wrote:

Your stack controls are out of adjustment. The blower should cut off at 80. It should cut on at 100.
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Of course, that's totally possible. Bad fan limit switch. I've seen that before.
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On Nov 4, 6:33pm, "Stormin Mormon"

What temp the fan cuts on and off at doesn't explain how he has only 70F air coming out of the vents with the furnace fired and running steady and why most of the house is cold.
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On Nov 5, 7:52am, snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

It can be explained by a clogged AC coil, I saw that once at a friends house, we just removed it for the winter and he got heat until he had time to powerwash it. Has he or anyone even looked at his AC coil yet, nope I bet not.
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ransley wrote:

Just for future reference, how would a clogged AC coil cause the issue? I barely understand basics of HVAC :o)
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Both the heat air and the AC air go through the AC coil. If the AC coil is clogged, you won't get much air flow through the furnace.
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On Nov 5, 10:37am, "Stormin Mormon"

If the air flow is low, the over-temperature sensor may cut off the heat whether it is gas or oil-fired, causing not enough heat. It could also be a bad sensor, or a sensor that is set too low that is the problem.
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On Thu, 5 Nov 2009 07:32:02 -0800 (PST), ransley

OP said he has good air flow (he feels a strong cool breeze0?
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snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

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On Wed, 04 Nov 2009 17:28:51 -0500, Van Chocstraw

So if his blower goes on at 75 would that be enough to keep his house from heating up? Sure, it's before the firebox heats up, and before the air on the other side of the firewall is hot, but wouldn't the heat catch up?
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The furnace may be working 100% correct but is way too small for the job you are asking it to do.
I live in a much milder climate, Kentucky, have 2 -- 75,000 input rated units at 80%, one on each level, 1300 square foot per level. All ductwork is fully insulated. They work fine and can recover from the night time set back of 10 degrees until the temp gets down in the teens and then I can not set back more than 5 degrees. 1995 construction, walls R-13, about 8" of attic insulation, brick construction with a full, unfinished, unheated basement.
If your AC works fine and you have good air flow at the registers then a blocked A coil is not you problem. You could have a limit control problem that a hasty tech did not stick around long enough to discover.
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On Wed, 4 Nov 2009 18:11:57 -0500, "Colbyt"

That furnace is NOT undersized if the house is reasonably well insulated. The only reason the furnace in my house is as big as it is, is I could not buy one smaller. Perfect size would have the furnace running full time on the coldest day to maintain temperature. My furnace has NEVER run over 8 hours in a day. - which means at 50,000 BTU it is TOO BIG. You loose a LOT of efficiency if the unit is too big.
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