frozen bolt & nuts

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All the previous suggestions about using heat are good; Just wanted to add a trick taught to me by an old dutchman. When you get the nut hot, spay it with oil. It sucks it into the bolt threads and carbonizes. After it cools a little, should come off easier.
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That's a darn fine tip. Thanks.
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wrote:

I love old tips. I call him Pops, but he is a tradesman of 40 years.
Told me to dull a nail head to prevent wood from splitting when nailing near the end. Just hold the nail head on a solid surface and tap the tip once or twice. The nail will rip through the wood vs splitting it. He even paid me too listen :-))
-- Oren
..through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the photo..
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wrote

It's damn amazing what a guy can learn by listening. Unless, of course, you're in the club that knows it all. I learned a long time ago when around old timers, shut up and listen. They like someone (anyone) who listens, and you learn a lot.
I love Yogi's quote, "You can see a lot by observing."
Steve
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wrote:

I call 'em "ole timers". I was once accused of being older than dirt on my job; but that rookie learned how to save and protect his life.
Listening is a learned art.
-- Oren
..through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the photo..
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A friend of mine is a private investigator for an attorney's office. What these guys dig up can make the difference of millions of dollars. He's good at it.
I asked him how he got so much information. He just said he was a good listener, and that most people like to talk. If you just get them talking, and know how to punch the buttons, people will tell you everything you want. He says he does especially good with people who don't like the person being inquired about.
Steve
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wrote:

From '77 - '02 I spoke with, dealt with on a daily basis, and talked with thousands of felons, develop a rapport, they will tell on their grandma. I have known of a grandma that told on the family member.

Some time you have to slap them to shut them up!

Question the veracity of the report.. I smell something.
-- Oren
..through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the photo..
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I've also had good results, spraying the super heated nut with WD 40 or Castle lube. Do this outdoor, it give off clouds of vapors.
Another mechanic suggested dripping candle wax onto the super heated nut. I've not tried this.
--

Christopher A. Young
You can\'t shout down a troll.
  Click to see the full signature.
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Two methods I've used on bolted-together auto exhausts:
- Heat the nut with small hot flame, ideally an oxyacetylene flame. Try not to heat the bolt directly, just the nut. When it starts glowing red, use a wrench to unscrew it.
- If the above doesn't work, switch to the cutting tip. Heat one side of the nut hot enough to cut, but again try to keep the bolt cool. Hit the oxygen lever for a moment. If you've timed it right, you'll cut right through the nut (because the steel is hot enough to burn when the oxygen hits it) without damaging the threads on the bolt (which is still too cold to be affected).
It might be worth trying the latter technique on some scrap bolts and nuts until you get the feel of it.
    Dave
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On Fri, 04 May 2007 05:24:04 -0700, Frank Thompson wrote:

Definitely use heat. Those bolts have been through so many heat/cool cycles that they are pretty much tightly sealed with that holes. If you don't use heat, you will almost certainly snap the heads off. Anyway, if your lucky enough to have bolts and not weld studs, I'm happy for you. If they snap at least you can get them extracted...
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Many good suggestions here, but bolts & nuts still there because unable to try most of them because of location of one of three sets. The front and rear ones relatively easy to work with (on fact already have loosened front one) but one on right side, i.e. between manifold downward exit /exhaust pipe header and engine block is all but impossible to reach. My next step might be just to remove entire manifold from engine block. The four studs are accessible. Problem with them is that some are off-the-wall sizes. Whoever rebuilt engine previously replaced originals with non-spec replacements. Two of them require a 17/32 socket which I have never seen anywhere. Nearest metric to that won't fit. Heat solution is worrisome because of fire danger regarding deisel fuel.
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