On Wed, 13 Nov 2013 21:14:18 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
It is a big enough tube that thw wader"slumps" enough to let air in -
and the water runs out. The more likely cause of the frostproof
splitting is the owner left a hose attached. That will do it, just
about every time. In my case it didn't split, - it just pulled the
tube out of the faucet/valve portion - so the tap opened and water ran
through the hose the first time it got warm, and filled my window well
with water - which ran in the window and (most of it) into the laundry
My son, when he was like 10, opened the backyard spigot and nothing came
out because it was frozen. Not being fully versed in righty tighty, lefty
loosey, he got confused (he admitted as much later) and wasn't sure if he
had turned it off or left it on.
A few days later the weather warmed up, the spigot unfroze and came on full
blast. At the time I had a grading problem and massive amounts of rain (or
a fully open spigot) would cause water to come under the back door and into
the basement. Luckily, my wife had taken the day off of work and eventually
heard the rushing water and shut off the main before too much water entered
the basement. Had we both been at work, the water would have run for 8+
(I have since buried a 55 gallon plastic drum as a drywell right outside
the basement door and have not had a water issue even in the worst
downpours, the kinds that used cause the basement to flood.)
On Wednesday, November 13, 2013 7:15:10 PM UTC-5, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I didn't see the show, but I tend to agree. It would have to
be installed with a good bit of backward tilt for it not to
drain enough to prevent it from freezing and bursting the pipe.
Never seen that. But like you say, I have seen them freeze
from leaving a hose full of water attached. You don't even need
to remove the hose, just take the nozzle off and make sure
the rest of the hose is a couple feet lower than the sillcock.
It's when you leave it connected, full of water, with no place
for the water to drain that it then freezes.
In my case it didn't split, - it just pulled the
I'm not saying that your drain is a bad idea, quite the contrary.
However, I've never seen one suggested on any Sillcock installation site. I
just watch 3 youtube's and scanned through the top three text hits on
installing a frost free Sillcock. Not a single one mentions a drain.
If I recall correctly, 4 or 5 of the 6 suggested the downward slant, but
not one mentions an interior drain.
Is that something you've seen/learned or was it your own idea?
Now I'm confused.
Yes, the show talked about the pitch, although it wasn't a brief mention of
the pitch. The entire segment (a full minute?) related to Sillcock was
about the fact that the old had split because of the pitch to the interior.
He explained in detail why the pitch should be towards the outside.
However, you mentioned that when you saw it, you thought to yourself "Why
no drain?" My question is what made you think that? I've never seen a drain
on a spigot nor have I seen any installation instructions that suggested
one. So, I ask again, not in a challenging manner, simply out of curiosity:
Is the drain something that you came up with on your own or have you seen
On Wednesday, November 13, 2013 10:30:36 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
IDK what he's they're talking about either. Drain? What drain?
Freeze-proof sillcocks don't have a drain. They just have the
valve 18"+ or so back with a long valve stem so the water gets
shut off inside the house where it doesn't freeze. The valve
is installed horizontal or very slightly pitched downward.
When you turn it off, the remaining water runs out of the pipe
like any other water would out of a sillcock. That's why if
you leave a hose on it that's full of water it will freeze
and bust. Or if you're dumb enough to put it in with it tilted
back into the house, it can stay full of water.
If you did put a "drain" in it, IDK how that would work or
where the water would go. The whole purpose of these things was
so that you didn't have to shut them off and drain them in the
winter and so you could have water available all year long.
On Wednesday, November 13, 2013 4:14:18 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
You're thinking of that straw trick where you dip the straw in the soda, put your finger over the end, and the soda doesn't run out.
That only works if the tube is VERTICAL.
Try it horizontal some time. The liquid runs right out.
The air would come in through the end of the sillcock.
wierd report. I am 56 have lived in pittsburgh my entire life do nothing to outdoor valves and have never had one freeze or split or whatever. normally theres a hose always attached. during these years we have had sub zero temperatures
Depends on plumbing setup I suspect. If enough heat gets conducted
through the pipe from the run inside a heated space, it won't freeze.
I'm a bit north of Chicago and always shut my inside valves and open
the outside to drain the pipe runs when temps get close to freezing.
Might not be necessary, since the inside piping is in a heated
basement. There's also some water flow turbulence at the inside hose
bib run Tee. All the house water supply flows past that.
But it's been standard practice for me since I can remember.
Two reasons I guess. Why take a chance, and it's part of the fall and
Goes along with putting away the lawn stuff and getting the snow
shovels from the garage rafters in the fall, and the opposite in the
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