Front porch re-do

Just redoing the front porch - ~5'x6'wide. It's only ~3' high and there are cement steps. It's rotted all to hell, but my only question is what's the common wisdom on attaching a ledger to the foundation (really hard - poured in 1954). The 2x6 that's there is only nailed - and those nails are

*badly* rusted - some right through.

I bought some 6" galv. lag bolts (3/8) and planned on using lag shields. I have since done some looking and people seem to be weary of them.

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Reply to
jim

Use a hammer drill to make new holes for the lag bolts and shields. Rent one if you can't borrow one. The holes will take 20 seconds instead of 20 minutes each. Your back will thank you.

You can also use epoxy to anchor the bolts.

Don't overtighten the bolts. You might crack the concrete.

Use pressure-treated (PT) wood for the ledger.

Use hangers for the joists.

Use double-hot-dipped hardware to fasten to PT wood. Don't buy the cheap electroplated stuff. The zinc coating is too thin, and you'll rub most of it off going into the wood.

Put a z-flange (also called a drip cap) on top of the ledger so water doesn't run behind it. It will last longer.

Make the porch slope away from the house about 1/4" per foot so water drains off.

Reply to
SteveBell

Thanks! How does one butt joists and lay the "decking" if there's a flange over the ledger?

I guess a pic might help... looking...

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Reply to
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OK - I get it... but there's plenty of overhang over the ledger anyway - original shingles + foam + vinyl siding. The ledger wood itself is good - the nails must have rusted from years and years of atmospheric exposure. I think the ledger is original to the house.

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Reply to
a

Some of the water you need to worry about is condensation from behind the shingles, foam, and siding. It comes down when the weather is just right--or just wrong. :-)

The flashing is supposed to go behind all the exterior wall covering, including the vapor barrier. That way, any condensation won't be trapped behind the ledger.

Reply to
SteveBell

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