Fridge Runs Excessively

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On Tuesday, June 28, 2016 at 7:55:02 AM UTC-4, Chet Kincaid wrote:

IDK why you're so fixated on fixing. I'm no expert on fridges, but from experience with them and other AC like systems, once you have symptoms like this, it's usually big trouble. With a home central AC or a car, it could be a Schrader valve, some Freon leaked out, it can be easily and cost effectively fixed. But other than that, you're down to having a leak or a bad compressor. If it's a leak, more likely it's a component like the evaporator, than a leak in a line. But whatever it is, if you have to call a pro, I see two general outcomes:
A - They diagnose it and its going to cost $400+ to fix.
B - They charge you $125 and tell you it's not worth fixing.
Is A worth it on a 20 year old fridge? If it's a $10K Viking fridge I can see it. If it's a fridge you can get for $1000? And factor in that a new fridge is probably going to save you maybe $50 a year in operating cost, it will look brand new, have new features, etc.
I replaced the 25 year old one here a few years ago. It was still running fine, but was looking dated and it also stuck out in front of the cabinets. I started looking around, realized that they have counter depth ones that are a bit taller, but hold the same capacity and fit flush to the cabinets. So, I kept my eyes open, was in no hurry and one day at Best Buy they had a stainless steel KitchenAid floor model at half price. I got a $2800 fridge for $1400. I had to do some work on the cabinets to get it to fit, but it was well worth it. It's now flush, looks like a built-in. It also has crushed ice and I have to say I like that a lot. Much better than cubes for putting in glasses. It cools instantly, evenly, and you don't have to deal with the cubes when you're drinking.
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On 6/28/2016 8:41 AM, trader_4 wrote:

Similar experience with a washing machine. I paid $85 for him to tell me to buy a new one. That was cheaper than average. Fix would have been $500.
A while back I replace an old fridge with a newer one that was 40% larger and electric bell wend down $10 a month.
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On Tuesday, June 28, 2016 at 10:29:13 AM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

My new one uses about half the old one. I used a KillaWatt on it. But I don't think I really measured it right. I just looked at power in watts when both were running under normal conditions. All I showed was that it uses half when running. It could also be that the new one spends more or less time running, hopefully less :).
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On 6/28/2016 7:54 AM, Chet Kincaid wrote:

I had a dream, that I was tall and handsome and women loved me. Then I got up, stood on my three step stool, and started to brush my one remaining tooth.
- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . .
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On 6/28/2016 3:23 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

I work with a guy whose circumference is greater than his height. I don't think it's possible for him to fall down.
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On 6/28/2016 7:36 PM, WWDubya wrote:

https://ixquick-proxy.com/do/spg/show_picture.pl?l=english&rais=1&oiu=http%3A%2F%2Fbig.assets.huffingtonpost.com%2Fweebles.gif&sp 267309cb4f4f0b5a4a08b163959749
He probably contains an ounce of lead, also. Which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, or lardbutt, whichever. One of those.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
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On 06/28/2016 06:33 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Hey, i've seen that guy shopping at Walmart.
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I just tried a little experiment. I advanced the defrost timer until I heard the machine shut down. I looked at the Kill-A-Watt and it showed a respectable 800W or so. When I looked later, it was zero.
I suppose it could be that there was no ice to melt and the heating element quickly turned off but what about the 12W or for the defrost timer motor itself? How are they wired?
Does the defrost timer motor interrupt itself until the evap is warm? But in that case it should be an either or thing...either you are warming up the evap and the timer is halted (similar to a washing machine halting the timer during fill until the select level is reached) or the temp has been achieved and the timer should proceeed back to normal mode. Zero watts I don't get.
I thought maybe I was on to something: Bad defrost heating element (or defrost timer) and evap coil chocked with ice, making internal air movement inefficient.
Guess there is only one way to really find out and that is to look. Waiting for an older fridge to cool down so I can transfer contents and open the evap area at the back.
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On 6/28/2016 8:21 PM, Chet Kincaid wrote:

You must be related to Danny D. He goes on endlessly about things, also. We should introduce you.
I'm glad someone out there still works on older equipment. The modern throw away society is a bit too modern for me.
--
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Christopher A. Young
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

I have time since it is cooling and a backup fridge available. So there is no rush to replace it. If I can repair it for the cost of a defrost timer or heating element, that would be a win. Also would prefer to keep it going if reasonably possible out of respect for my late mom who selected it a few years after my dad passed on and took pride in it.
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you could save enough money on electric to pay for a new fridge......
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wrote:

Reefers are pretty expensive. Paid $800 for my current one. The one I had before that only lasted 8 years. Compressor was clanking. But not arguing with your point. Unless you have the gear and time they a compressor isn't worth replacing.
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bob haller wrote:

There's an EPA label on it that estimates it would use 848 kWh per year. (It's off the end of the chart so apparently it was not very efficient even when it was made.)
I pulled up a similar fridge on Best Buy. Usage per year is estimated is 643.
I haven't looked at the electric bill lately but let's say it's 12 ? per kWh. That's only a $25 per year saving. Not exactly a big payback.
That's comparing the old one in working order. Obviously the non stop running isn't something I can allow to go on forever. But hypothetically say I did. It's drawing just under 200W so 0.2 kWh per hr. That's about $210. That's a reduction of $133 per year. So even compared to the broken machine, the payback period is 8 to 10 years.
Vic Smith wrote:

Replacing a compressor is beyond my abilities. But if I knew how to braze, determined that was what it needed, could find an appropriate new compressor for fifty bucks on eBay, and had the equipment like a vacuum pump, yeah I think I would do it. But that's not happening. And I just have this feeling it's not the compressor anyway.
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On 6/28/2016 10:02 PM, Chet Kincaid wrote:

For sure, some times those family memories are worth the extra effort and dollars. Good on you, honoring your father and your mother.
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On Tuesday, June 28, 2016 at 8:21:24 PM UTC-4, Chet Kincaid wrote:

IDK how it's wired, but I think you're on the right track. Those timer motors will stop and wait for some other switch to close, indicating it's time to start timing again.
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Chet Kincaid wrote:

Sad to say inspection didn't reveal an evap plugged with ice. Just some at the very bottom. Evap fan seems healthy.
Does GE still use those annoying spine fin coils?
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