You must be related to Danny D. He goes on endlessly about things, also. We should introduce you.
I'm glad someone out there still works on older equipment. The modern throw away society is a bit too modern for me.
I have time since it is cooling and a backup fridge available. So there is no rush to replace it. If I can repair it for the cost of a defrost timer or heating element, that would be a win. Also would prefer to keep it going if reasonably possible out of respect for my late mom who selected it a few years after my dad passed on and took pride in it.
you could save enough money on electric to pay for a new fridge......
Reefers are pretty expensive. Paid $800 for my current one. The one I had before that only lasted 8 years. Compressor was clanking. But not arguing with your point. Unless you have the gear and time they a compressor isn't worth replacing.
There's an EPA label on it that estimates it would use 848 kWh per year. (It's off the end of the chart so apparently it was not very efficient even when it was made.)
I pulled up a similar fridge on Best Buy. Usage per year is estimated is
643.I haven't looked at the electric bill lately but let's say it's 12 ? per kWh. That's only a $25 per year saving. Not exactly a big payback.
That's comparing the old one in working order. Obviously the non stop running isn't something I can allow to go on forever. But hypothetically say I did. It's drawing just under 200W so 0.2 kWh per hr. That's about $210. That's a reduction of $133 per year. So even compared to the broken machine, the payback period is 8 to 10 years.
Vic Smith wrote:
Replacing a compressor is beyond my abilities. But if I knew how to braze, determined that was what it needed, could find an appropriate new compressor for fifty bucks on eBay, and had the equipment like a vacuum pump, yeah I think I would do it. But that's not happening. And I just have this feeling it's not the compressor anyway.
Hey, i've seen that guy shopping at Walmart.
For sure, some times those family memories are worth the extra effort and dollars. Good on you, honoring your father and your mother.
I don't think the orig poster got the dollar bill reference! Supposed to shut the refrigerator - or car - door on the bill, and attempt to pull the currency out from between the seals. How difficult it is to pull out will usually indicate how tight the seal is.
Also, I force myself to make sure nothing is less than one inch from the back wall of either the fridge or freeze compartments of the unit. In most units that is where the refrigeration comes from. Pack it all you want with food and stuff, just make sure nothing is against that back inside wall!
Finally, and some will argue me on this, I've seen many a free-standing(non built in) fridge or freezer delivery where the FRONT FEET were not adjusted for about a half to one inch(two- three cm) lean back, to assist doors shutting.
As a design note, I would eliminate the need for 'lean-back' of refrigerators and freezers simply by designing a hinge with an angle built into it that raises the doors as they are opened, and uses the weight of the doors to ride down the hinge to assist closing. Much like king-pin angle did on the front wheels of trucks and cars. The aforementioned feet could then just be used to reduce wobbling fridges. :)
IDK how it's wired, but I think you're on the right track. Those timer motors will stop and wait for some other switch to close, indicating it's time to start timing again.
Sad to say inspection didn't reveal an evap plugged with ice. Just some at the very bottom. Evap fan seems healthy.
Does GE still use those annoying spine fin coils?
I've seen such a thing, the sloped part was plastic. I got to replace at least one, in the years I've been in business.
Only required if you're very forgetfull. Even I manage to remember to close the door. The magnets keep it shut when the fridge is level.
As above, not required at all.
Stormin Mormon wrote: "I've seen such a thing, the sloped part was plastic. I got to replace at least one, in the years I've been in business. "
Well there y' go: Good design, SHITTY execution. Plastic?!?!
Chet Kincaid wrote: "Only required if you're very forgetfull. Even I manage to remember to close the door. The magnets keep it shut when the fridge is level. "
You're very sharp, and even older-school than I! I need the mild assist of lean-back or a cam hange as I described. I can't remember to zip up my fly after the bathroom; it's down most of the time, so I'm told. Plus, my refrigerator is in a space where the floor slopes down to the left of the unit. So the combination of moderate lean back and left tilt means the f'ing door NEVER swings shut without a good shove - and it's hinged on the right!
It's been a lot of years, but I think the sloped part was nylon. I remember the cheap to a fault old man had researched it, and found the part for eight bucks. I could have got the part at my wholesale house, but he insisted on buying it. He said he wasn't sure that was the problem. I suggested he buy the part, and return it if not. So, I made a house call about twenty miles away to do the repair with the customer supplied part. Got there, and sure enough, that's what's needed. So, I asked him for the part. He said he didn't order it, he just wanted me to come out nd see if it was what was needed, he'd order he part and I could come back. So, I drove 40 miles plus, because he's too cheap to have an eight dollar part in his hand when I arrived. I don't think I charged him two service calls, but ought to have.
Yes, and cheap old man who wanted me to come out to his house (twenty mile drive) to tell him to buy an eight dollar part.
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