Fridge Runs Excessively

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On 6/29/2016 8:47 AM, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

I've seen such a thing, the sloped part was plastic. I got to replace at least one, in the years I've been in business.
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Christopher A. Young
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Stormin Mormon wrote: "I've seen such a thing, the sloped part was plastic. I got to replace at least one, in the years I've been in business. "
Well there y' go: Good design, SHITTY execution. Plastic?!?!
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On 6/30/2016 5:35 AM, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

It's been a lot of years, but I think the sloped part was nylon. I remember the cheap to a fault old man had researched it, and found the part for eight bucks. I could have got the part at my wholesale house, but he insisted on buying it. He said he wasn't sure that was the problem. I suggested he buy the part, and return it if not. So, I made a house call about twenty miles away to do the repair with the customer supplied part. Got there, and sure enough, that's what's needed. So, I asked him for the part. He said he didn't order it, he just wanted me to come out nd see if it was what was needed, he'd order he part and I could come back. So, I drove 40 miles plus, because he's too cheap to have an eight dollar part in his hand when I arrived. I don't think I charged him two service calls, but ought to have.
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On 6/30/2016 5:35 AM, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Yes, and cheap old man who wanted me to come out to his house (twenty mile drive) to tell him to buy an eight dollar part.
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Only required if you're very forgetfull. Even I manage to remember to close the door. The magnets keep it shut when the fridge is level.

As above, not required at all.
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You may be a cunning linguist, but I am a master debater.

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Chet Kincaid wrote: "Only required if you're very forgetfull. Even I manage to remember to close the door. The magnets keep it shut when the fridge is level. "
You're very sharp, and even older-school than I! I need the mild assist of lean-back or a cam hange as I described. I can't remember to zip up my fly after the bathroom; it's down most of the time, so I'm told. Plus, my refrigerator is in a space where the floor slopes down to the left of the unit. So the combination of moderate lean back and left tilt means the f'ing door NEVER swings shut without a good shove - and it's hinged on the right!
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On 6/25/2016 11:28 AM, Chet Kincaid wrote:

I'd suggest you research this, before the wrath of the EPA visits your home.
I had a look at the EPA web site, and it is not clear.
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On Saturday, June 25, 2016 at 6:11:05 PM UTC-7, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Not clear? That's probably due to your local smog conditions. Now watch 'em pass some new regulations. STG
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On 6/25/2016 9:35 PM, Shade Tree Guy wrote:

Due to smog, HO no longer legal to add refrigerant to their own machines. Needs EPA certified tech.
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"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
On 6/25/2016 9:35 PM, Shade Tree Guy wrote:

Due to smog, HO no longer legal to add refrigerant to their own machines. Needs EPA certified tech.
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

An additional complication: I am still researching this but from what I gather, R134a when used in a freezer runs at a partial vacuum on the suction side which introduces the risk of introducing air into the system.
So IF (still a big IF) I was going to do this, probably best to put the self-piercer on while the machine is not running and at positive pressure everywhere. Purge the hose with gas from the can. Apply hose. Open service valve. Maybe loosen hose at the can end to further blow it out with gas from the system. (I do it that way with my car.) With the system not running both the can and the system should be at the same pressure. Run the system. Open the can and introduce just a wee bit of gas. Close everything but leave attached. See if any improvement or if worse.
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On 6/26/2016 9:04 AM, Chet Kincaid wrote:

I consider it unwise for me to give advice to uncertified HO's, on matters that require a certificate.
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

Isn't that hilarious? I can dump R134a into the atmosphere by the gallon if it relates to automotive A/C but if I wanted to do something on a machine whose entire charge is less than half of a can you get at Walmart, that would be illegal.
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On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 08:04:14 -0500, Chet Kincaid

The instructions I had for a car say the car sould be running, and I think that included when you first hooked up the can. I'm not sure why that would matter however, except that you can't get much in when the car isn't running.

You have a point. The air coming off the condenser should be warmer almost immediately.
When I had a parathyroid gland removed, they measured my PTH during the surgery, which was only 30 minutes iirc, and it had already gone down.
OT, but I had a can I only used part of, and I left it with the tapping-valve on for I think it was a year or more. It still had pressure, so I think it hadn't leaked at all.
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On Monday, June 27, 2016 at 6:16:36 PM UTC-5, Micky wrote:

...you're rambling again...meds?
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Micky wrote:

Just being cautious because the temps involved might have the evap running at part vacuum. Would run it while adding anything. Don't want air sucked in.
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On Sat, 25 Jun 2016 10:28:26 -0500, Chet Kincaid

Why wouldn't there be. For that matter, I'm guessing you can tell something just by seeing how hot the condensing coils are. Maybe with your fingers or an IR thermometer.
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Micky wrote:

Barely warm at all. Air coming off them (it's a fan-blown condenser) is hardly any warmer than room air being drawn in.
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On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 20:33:53 -0500, Chet Kincaid

Well I'm no authority, but that sounds like low freon or a bad compressor. What are compressors like when they are bad? Do they work at all? Do they make a different noise? I don't know.
A) if adding a little bit helps, why are you calling a repairman next? Because you don't have a guage.
B) Are you sure you will put the valve where the repairman will accept it? How did you come up with the location.
Other questions, Is it easier for the compressor to run when it's low on freon, since it doenst have so much gas to compress? If it is easier, does that lower the electricty used anywhere near as much as the fridge cooling goes down. That is, now that it runs almost all the time, are you using a lot more electricty than before, or only a little? It would use the same amount if it weren't for overhead in more than one place, so I don't know how much more it would be using now. Will the Kill-a Watt meter work with something as big as a fridge. If so, you could compare your fridge to a good one and see how much electricity is being used extra.
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So I had a dream about this.
In my dream, EPA regs did not apply to this situation.
In my dream, I put a piercer on the compressor stubby (installing while off).
In my dream I had all sorts of hoses, gauges, and adapters.
In my dream it barely read any pressure and went to near zero when I started it up.
In my dream I put in a bit of gas from little can.
In my dream, I thought the air coming over the condenser warmed up a little.
In my dream, a tube in the area where I previously wasn't even sure if it was high side or low side got cold and started dripping condensation.
However, in my dream, it had little effect on temps or non stop running.
In my dream, the aforementioned tube was iced over by morning. (In my dream I advanced the timer to put it into a defrost cycle.)
In my dream, I wasn't sure if I accomplished good or evil.
In my dream, as well as in reality, if this really is a level issue and I just don't know what I'm doing, I would gladly call in a pro.
In general, I'd call for pro help IF there's a chance they can do something that is worth doing on this machine. In the best of all scenarios, I'd rather fix than replace.
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