Freezer question

I posted recently about our freezer having problems staying cold.
We have a side by side GE Profile Model PSHS6RGXCDSS
I don't really have a bench mark to compare its current functioning to beca use in the past I never paid attention to the temperature because it was wo rking fine. But since I had some problems with the freezer getting too war m I have been watching it very closely now.
Here is what I am seeing.
If I set the temperature settings very cold (-6F and 34F) for the freezer a nd fridge it will get there eventually. Yesterday we were out all day and when I got home around 5 p.m. it was at that temperature.
But then after the doors have been opened it starts to rise and then contin ues to rise. It got up to 6F and 41F last night when I went to bed. The 4 1F for the fridge concerns me because from what I read bacteria can start t o be a problem when it gets above 41F.
Then at night it gets down to the temperature I set for it. But it takes a long time. When I woke at 3:30 a.m. I took a look at it and it was at 4F and 37F. The when I woke for the day at 6:30 a.m. it was at -2 and 34 whi ch is the temperature I had set for it.
Should it take this long to get back down to the set temperature?
The room is cool and is air conditioned.
Everything in the freezer is still nice and frozen and the ice cubes are fi ne. The ice pops still seem a little mushy to me.
I'm just curious about the length of time it is taking to get cold again. It seems to be having a hard time.
Thanks for any feedback.
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On 7/14/2016 7:46 AM, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

The one thing you can (and should) do is to take off the back plate, and clean the condenser. You'll need 5/16 nut driver or socket wrench, and a couple variety of nylon brush. Vacuum cleaner with a hose. The condenser is the black tubes and wires (will be to the right as you sit on the floor behind the fridge). Brush the dust, vacuum it clean. It is important to put the back plate on again.
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On Thursday, July 14, 2016 at 7:46:38 AM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

working fine. But since I had some problems with the freezer getting too w arm I have been watching it very closely now.

d when I got home around 5 p.m. it was at that temperature.

41F for the fridge concerns me because from what I read bacteria can start to be a problem when it gets above 41F.

F and 37F. The when I woke for the day at 6:30 a.m. it was at -2 and 34 w hich is the temperature I had set for it.

Despite giving us some times and temps, what's missing is how long the doors are open and then how long it takes to get back to the set temp. I'd say if you open the fridge door for 10 secs to get something, the fridge should be back to it's set temp in a hour or two. It's also going to depend a lot on the thermal mass in the fridge and freezer. If they are empty, opening the door will result in a bigger temp rise and take longer to recover than if it's full.
It sounds like your fridge may be struggling. Coils clean? Any air path/fans inside clear and working?
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On Thursday, July 14, 2016 at 9:20:29 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

I tried taking off the back plate which is on the freezer side. I took off four bolts but then got stuck because the plate is behind the light assembly and it was not obvious to me how to get that plate off.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Steve
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if the room is TOO cool, the freezer will not be cold.
this is counteractive but true as I will explain below
the temperature control in in the fridge, not the freezer.
When the fridge gets too warm, the compressor comes on and cools both the freezer and the fridge. If you want the freezer to be cooler, adjust the door between the freezer and the fridge to be more closed.
Also consider, if you set the fridge temp to say 47 and the room temp is 47, the compressor will never come on and the freezer will warm to 47.
The controller measures the fridge temp, usually not the freezer temp.
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On 2016-07-14 10:09 AM, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

stuff gets pushed to the back of the freezer section so far that the vents get blocked. When that happens, the fridge runs forever, and does not seem to do anything and stuff warms up, make sure those vents are not blocked.
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"Behind the light assembly"?? Are you trying to do this *inside* the freezer? The "back plate" is on the *back* of the unit, i.e. on the outside.
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On Thursday, July 14, 2016 at 1:04:58 PM UTC-4, Doug Miller wrote:

Well that explains why it wasn't easy to take that plate off. I wonder wha t that inside plate reveals?
I can't easily get at the back of this fridge. It is recessed in an enclos ure in our kitchen. I would have to roll it out. Then there is the hoses attached for the ice machine and water.
I wonder how one repairman deals with this. I think I remember two guys mo ving that fridge when it was installed. I guess it's on wheels but it's st ill pretty big and heave and there is no way to get at the sides because it is sitting tightly in this enclosure.
It seems to be behaving better. Last night it didn't get very warm. I wil l have to look at the fridge side and see if anything is blocked off.
Thanks for all the help on this one.
Steve
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On Friday, July 15, 2016 at 8:59:56 AM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Most likely you will find insulation, internal duct work and some wires.

Think about this logically:
Do you think that they removed the kitchen wall behind the fridge in order to install the water lines? Odds are that there is enough slack in the water lines and power cord for the unit to be pulled out of the enclosure. I would suggest shutting off the water before you roll the unit out just in case things go terribly wrong.

See my comments above.

On the units I've dealt with, there are 4 rollers, 2 in front and 2 in the rear. There are also 2 "leveling legs" in the front. The legs are spun downward until they reach the floor which prevents the unit from rolling. Sometimes the legs even lift the front rollers off of the floor, tilting the unit backward slightly. This is done so that the doors close by themselves.
I have used a 2 x 4 and/or a crowbar to take the pressure off of the legs so that they can be spun upwards. Once they are up high enough, the front wheels touch the floor and the unit can be easily rolled out of the enclosure.

Look at both the fridge side and the freezer side to ensure all vents are clear.

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On 7/15/2016 8:59 AM, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Fan, evaporator, defrost heaters, termination thermostat, end of capillary tube. Lot of stuff.
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On 07/15/2016 06:59 AM, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Most appliance repair services charge north of $2 per minute. It'll be cheaper if you empty and move it into a clear area where (s)he can easily work on it.
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On 7/15/2016 8:59 AM, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Yeah, it fixed itself. The water lines are long enough to pull it away. You only have to pull it far enough to peek at the back and get a hose in there if you have to clean it.
It is usually fairly easy to pull them out with the wheels already on them.
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wrote in message
I posted recently about our freezer having problems staying cold.
We have a side by side GE Profile Model PSHS6RGXCDSS
I don't really have a bench mark to compare its current functioning to because in the past I never paid attention to the temperature because it was working fine. But since I had some problems with the freezer getting too warm I have been watching it very closely now.
Here is what I am seeing.
If I set the temperature settings very cold (-6F and 34F) for the freezer and fridge it will get there eventually. Yesterday we were out all day and when I got home around 5 p.m. it was at that temperature.
But then after the doors have been opened it starts to rise and then continues to rise. It got up to 6F and 41F last night when I went to bed. The 41F for the fridge concerns me because from what I read bacteria can start to be a problem when it gets above 41F.
Then at night it gets down to the temperature I set for it. But it takes a long time. When I woke at 3:30 a.m. I took a look at it and it was at 4F and 37F. The when I woke for the day at 6:30 a.m. it was at -2 and 34 which is the temperature I had set for it.
Should it take this long to get back down to the set temperature?
The room is cool and is air conditioned.
Everything in the freezer is still nice and frozen and the ice cubes are fine. The ice pops still seem a little mushy to me.
I'm just curious about the length of time it is taking to get cold again. It seems to be having a hard time.
Thanks for any feedback.
Apparently you did cleaned you must check your defrost is working, Fan is circulating and mechanical device that some refrigerator use to Pickup cold air from freezer to inject into refrigerator portion. Defrost "Important" make sure that it does defrost otherwise it may Stop working all together.
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