Framing a non-load wall

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Framing a non-load-bearing wall with 1 doorway.
Questions:
1. Existing room has sheet rock on ceiling. Do I strip off the rock where the top plate attaches to the joists? Or do I just nail through the rock?
2. Intersecting corners: one of the walls uses 2 studs separated with short pieces of 2x4 (effectively three 2x4's thick)? End of other wall has just one stud that nails into this 3-stud block?
3. Door header: king stud and jack stud on either side of doorway? One top plate 2x4 at top of doorway? Will simply using a header made from two 2x4's over this plate with cripple studs above be sufficient? Overkill?
4. Rough opening: what is the size of the rough opening for a 28-inch door? Every web site I looked at says "measure the door and frame". Isn't there a standard measurement (give or take shim space) for a door of this size?
Thanks,
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Once the wall is up, what's the technique for joining the wall's new sheet rock to the existing ceiling's "cottage cheese" surface? Do I just slather lots of joint compound over the cottage cheese and tape it? Or do I scrape off the cheese texture before compounding and taping the joint?
Thanks,
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On Sun, 18 Jul 2004 10:06:58 -0700, Phil Scott wrote

So, cut the ceiling "clean", and tape / mud the wall up close to -- but not onto -- the ceiling.

OK, thanks.

It's like this: I appreciate a link to a page that someone thinks will help me get the job done. I don't appreciate being told to "google this". That gives me thousands of hits, and I'm not qualified to be able to chose the right one (or I wouldn't be asking the question here).
I can google. I need help reducing those to a useable few web pages, so I ask here. I need *specific* references to a solution, based on others' experience, not thousands.
(Maybe I should change the sig to say "No 'Google this' replies, please..." or such.)
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In article

Yes.
If I understand correctly, that will be fine.

Yes. It's actually easier to build it that way, and you minimize wall movement when the door gets slammed.

At the very least, I would use 2x4s on edge with a 7/16" spacer (OSB) in between.

Generally add 2" to the width, 1" to the height, unless you're using a thick threshold.
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Mark

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On Sun, 18 Jul 2004 09:21:45 -0700, Mark wrote

What's "OSB"?

So, 32 wide by (whatever door height is plus 1)?
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do a google, dont be so lazy. or just hire a pro to do the work. get with the program.
see link below, keywords: What's "OSB"?
http://www.google.com/search?as_q=&num &hl=en&ie=UTF-8&btnG=Google+Search&as_epq=What%27s+%22OSB%22%3F&as_oq=&as_eq=&lr=&as_ft=i&as_filetype=&as_qdr=all&as_nlo=&as_nhi=&as_occt=any&as_dt=i&as_sitesearch=&safe=images
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30 inches wide
NJBrad
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On Sun, 18 Jul 2004 10:28:19 -0700, Brad Bruce wrote

Oops, 28 plus 2 inches, not 2 inches on each side (as I had read it...)
("Cut once, measure... dang!")
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28 +2 0
randy
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On Sun, 18 Jul 2004 09:21:45 -0700, Mark wrote

Oh, you mean "chip board"!
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> At the very least, I would use 2x4s on edge with a 7/16" > spacer (OSB) in between. Oh, you mean "chip board"!
OSB is many things, but it's not chip board.
Best of luck, and let us know how it comes out!
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Lyle B. Harwood, President
Phoenix Homes, Inc.
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Lyle B. Harwood wrote:

Oriented strand board.
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Mortimer Schnerd, RN

snipped-for-privacy@carolina.rr.com.barf
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Thanks, -- Please, no Google links. I wouldn't ask a question here if I hadn't done that already.
Best of luck, and let us know how it comes out!
--
Lyle B. Harwood, President
Phoenix Homes, Inc.
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DaveC wrote:

Nail through the rock. You, or the next owner, might want to remove the wall. It is easier to fill nail or screw holes than to replace pieces of sheetrock. Use screws. They are easier to remove without damaging the sheetrock. This is not a support wall, so the nails or screws are to prevent the wall from being knocked over.

Yes. This is to provide ouside and inside nailers for the sheetrock.

cripple studs, since they do not support anything. We're talking about a 28" door, there is no need for additional sheetrock nailers above the door. The piece of sheetrock above the door will be no more than 30" x 12", much smaller than the 8' x 16' between the wall studs.

The general rule is 1" on each side and 1" on the top. This depends upon the plumb of the framing studs. If they are extremely out of plumb, then you may need more spacing for shims to get the door plumb. The door jambs are usually 3/4", therefore you have to allow for that 3/4" plus at least 1/4" for shimming to make it plumb, this means that for a 28" pre-hung door, you need at least a 30" wide by 81" high rough opening.

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Hot Damn!!!!
8 foot by 16 foot BETWEEN wall studs!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'll huff and I'll puff and I'll blow your house down said the wolf to the tree little piggies

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Tony Mugno wrote:

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Yes I did I was just tweakin yer nose
Actually maybe you have some advice for me. Im looking for a light weight device for fastening metal studs. Preferably powered, either criming pr "spot welding" I have a 3000 sf house with no internal load bearing walls so all will be metal studs. Im doing the construction myself so I need something that wont make my arm fall off.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Tony

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On Sun, 18 Jul 2004 19:44:09 -0700, Tony Mugno wrote

Please ask your question by starting a new thread. You do this by not replying to another posting, but create a new one.
It's "netiquette" to not intrude on a thread by asking another question. This diverts the readers from the original question.
Thanks,
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