On Wed, 06 Jan 2016 04:03:54 -0600, email@example.com wrote:
Maybe. But back in the day of brass radiators I was a regular at the
radiator shop. With the plastic ones they seem to last and last. And
when they do go back they are cheap to replace, so cheap they aren't
worth even trying to fix. Brass was so expensive you didn't replace
them unless the shop said they were past the point of repair.
This was interesting.... My replacement radiator has 2 small tube stubs
just below the radiator cap. The top one is above the pressure seal and
is for the overflow tube. The one below it is not used in this car.
Autozone and Factory both could not tell me what it was for - guessing
it was made for more than one applications. The kit in the box had a
rubber vacuum cap and the factory guy said that was to put over the 2nd
port if it was not needed. I put it on with a hose clamp, and a few
months later the bottom blew out. I replaced with a short length of
heater hose with a bolt screwed into the outlet and fastened with a 2nd
hose clamp. So far that has held. I call Factory again and told them
about it, and they were not interested in the problem.
On Tue, 05 Jan 2016 12:15:52 -0600, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Irontite is full of disodium tetraborate decahydrate.- AKA Borax.
Don't think that is the sealer but an anticorrosion agent.
It works pretty good too, and won't block heater cores or rads.
A lot of the good sealers only "set" when they contact air - and as
long as you don't run the system low, the heater core and rad don't
see air to "set" the sealer.
Some products like "BarsLea"' use sodium silicate and a fiber filler -
which could be a bran or powdered cork, or some inorganic filler.
Depending on the filler I suppose they COULD cause a problem if not
On 1/5/2016 8:40 AM, email@example.com wrote:
Older cars can develop pinhole leaks in the heater core which stop leak
can plug. The alternative is to bypass the heater core since no one is
going to spend the money to disassemble a 20 year old car to replace the
I had this issue in a 20 year old Toyota. The leak was so small that the
coolant level never moved a measurable amount, but you could still smell
the coolant inside the car The mechanic suggested half a bottle of stop
leak which appeared to do the trick, at least for now.
Trying to fix a radiator with stop leak is not a good plan since it's
relatively easy to replace a radiator. When the plastic radiator on the
20 year old Camry cracked it was less than $200 for parts and labor for
a replacement, though the genuine Toyota part would have been another $500.
Don't be too sure about that ... some of us prefer older cars , and I for
one need heat in the winter . My pickup is 30 years old , and has had the
heater core replaced within the last 2 years . I've also replaced the valve
guide seals , pan gasket , valve cover and intake manifold gaskets as well
as the timing gears/chain and associated seals and gaskets .
I've done it many times - and on cars well over 20 years old.
Stopleak won't seel a cracked plastic tank or a blown tank seal. I
used to replace a lot of "O" rings and crimp plates on pastic
tank/aluminum core rads - particularly the ones that used the aluminum
tabs from the core end plates instead of a stainless steel crimp
plate. I converted a LOT of them over the years on Toyotas. Unlike
brass rads, aluminum rads generally do not fail from corrosion in 3 or
On Wed, 06 Jan 2016 04:11:05 -0600, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
They can. Look at any expensive hot rad radiator. Then look at the
price - - - - - - - -. Then you have your answer.
And aluminum has NO reszistance to fatigue cracking. If it bends AT
ALL stress build up - so any vibration transmitted to the tank and
other parts of the rad WILL cause it to fracture in time.
Plastic is stiffer and does not fatigue crack (where brackets mout to
tanks, for instance)
Moulded in brackets and everything with plastic tanks make them a LOT
cheaper than aluminum - and the failure rate on plastic tanks is no
higher than the failure rate was on bras rad tanks - whith the mouting
straps coming off, the hose spigors breaking out, the tank seals
letting go ----
Why do you think there are so many fewer rad shops today than there
used to be - with 10 times as many cars on the road, and the average
fleet age almost double.
10 year old cars used to be junk. Most cars never hit 100,000 miles.
The average radiator was repaired at least twice in that time, and
most were recored before 10 years or 100,000 miles.
Today it is nothing for a rad to last 150,000 or 200,000 miles, or 15
years. My 20 year old truck still has the original rad.(at 340,000km)
Of all the cars I've owned in the last 40 years (at least 12), all of
which went well over 200,000 km and 12 years (some 18) I've only had
to replace one rad - and that was on my Pontiac. (to be fair, it had
over 300,000km on it)
BZZZZT wrong again Binky . Pinholes are caused by electrolysis , which is
what happens when the coolant becomes "worn out" and the Ph changes (I can't
remember if it gets acidic or basic) . It must be changed on a regular basis
or it becomes an electrolyte , and the resulting electrical current erodes
aluminum parts . Distilled water will NOT protect your cooling system .
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