Flushing Out a Heater Core..Info

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The main cause of this problem is people adding Stop Leak and keeping it in their radiator. This will cause the stop leak to settle in the heater cores.
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Jack G. wrote:

Bullshit . Properly used it will not cause problems . Of course if you pour 3 bottles of Barsleaks in trying to stop up a 1/4" hole all bets are off .
--
Snag



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wrote:

This has been a question that no one has ever been able to answer since they first made that "Stop Leak". Ask any mechanic, and you'll never get the same answer. I have always avoided it unless it was absolutely necessary. It's just a temporary fix anyhow, so I'd rather fix it properly.
I knew a guy, who was a race car builder, and he used to say you get better results shoving a few slices of white bread in the radiator. I thought he was joking, but he was serious....
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I looked up the MSDS sheets on various brands of stop-leak, and most have some kind of grain ingredient.
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On Tue, 5 Jan 2016 09:01:07 -0800, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"

It easy enough to see in your overflow tank and around the rim of your radiator fill cap. I've seen it. Plenty of it when I used the GM stop-leak (which I've read is re-labeled Bar's Leak) as a preventative. It left a "greasy" residue. Probably not enough to plug up a heater core, but I stopped using it in my cars. Didn't want it in my cooling system.
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On Tue, 5 Jan 2016 09:01:07 -0800, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"

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On Tue, 5 Jan 2016 09:01:07 -0800, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"

That's interesting. I thought that they contained some sort of resin that hardened, and that silver colored stuff contained aluminum powder or someting like that.
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Probably are various kinds with and without aluminum, copper, etc, depending on the application. Here's a couple of common products...
Bars MSDS... (20-25% organic material) https://www.lakeland.edu/PDFs/MSDS/169/Radiator%20Stop%20Leak%20%28All%20 Brands%29.pdf
K-Seal MSDS.... (up to 7% flaxmeal) https://www.tetrosylexpress.com/home/images/stories/virtuemart/documents/ KALK5501_SDS.pdf
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On Tue, 5 Jan 2016 12:13:49 -0800, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"

Years ago when I used to get brass radiators rebuilt I asked the guy if the alumiseal I was using was any good. He said it was ok as a stop leak but a pain in the butt for him because he needed to clean it all out before he could resolder everything. I used aluimiseal in all my cars for many years and never had anything plug up. Since most radiators went to plastic and aluminum I've found that they seem to be almost indestructible if you change the coolant every 4 years or so.
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On Tue, 05 Jan 2016 18:25:45 -0700, ">>>Ashton Crusher"

About half the plastic radiators I've had have failed. Side cap leaks and cracks. No accidents, just some kind of plastic fatigue. GM's.
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On 1/5/2016 9:13 PM, Vic Smith wrote:

My last GM (1998 Blazer) had a leak on the side of the rad.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
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On Tue, 5 Jan 2016 21:42:31 -0500, Stormin Mormon

The last time I had a radiator with that kind of leak (the crimped over aluminum over plastic) I just used vise grips to tighten about 4 inches of crimps in the leaking area. Fixed the leak.
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On Tue, 05 Jan 2016 20:13:32 -0600, Vic Smith

Garbage Machines. What do you expect???
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On Tue, 05 Jan 2016 23:04:56 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

FYI, same thing happens to Fords, Toyotas, et al. Old plastic goes bad. Mine were all over 15 years old. It's a minor job putting a new rad in. Hardly a big deal. You were suckered with a Lumina APV, weren't you? Should have done your homework. Then you wouldn't mistake it for a Lumina sedan. And saved yourself more pain than I've ever had.
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On Tue, 05 Jan 2016 23:07:03 -0600, Vic Smith

Nephew had the lumina sedan and it was no better, at the very best.Step mother had one too.
Friend has an Impala - there has been more spent on that car under warranty than I've ever spent on a car.
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On Wed, 06 Jan 2016 18:04:41 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Blah, blah blah. I could go on and on about my brother's Fords, or my nephew's Toyota. You're nothing but a car bigot. And you drive garbage cars.
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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca posted for all of us...

Government Motors-by the way have we been paid back yet? Or do we get ignition switch credits? Do the books balance, I don't think so.
--
Tekkie

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wrote:

News here last week was that GM bought a $500MM part of Lyft. Why aren't our fearless Congresscritters raising hell about this. I'm not a big fan of taxis, but they are one of the few large collectives in the US that actually works. I don't trust any of these cut rate ride services.
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On Tue, 05 Jan 2016 20:13:32 -0600, Vic Smith

Same here. My belt broke, the engine got a little hot, but I stopped as soon as I saw steam. The plastic top of the radiator had a 4 inch long crack in it. I had to replace the radiator. The old brass ones never cracked open, and when they got a leak, a little solder fixed it. So rather than spend $5 on solder, I had to spend almost $250 for a new radiator. And that was just for the part, I replaced it myself. Whoever designed radiators made from plastic should be hung in the town square by their balls.
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On Wed, 06 Jan 2016 04:03:54 -0600, snipped-for-privacy@unlisted.moc wrote:

did the soldered seams let go, requireing soldering, but the brass tanks cracked too, Sure, you could solder a patch on them when they split = but they did split. And the hose fittings broke out of the tanks too. Aluminum rads stand up batter than bras ever did - and when they need to be repaired or replaced you can replace them for less than the cost of a repair in many cases.
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