This has been a question that no one has ever been able to answer since
they first made that "Stop Leak". Ask any mechanic, and you'll never get
the same answer.
I have always avoided it unless it was absolutely necessary. It's just a
temporary fix anyhow, so I'd rather fix it properly.
I knew a guy, who was a race car builder, and he used to say you get
better results shoving a few slices of white bread in the radiator. I
thought he was joking, but he was serious....
On Tue, 5 Jan 2016 09:01:07 -0800, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
It easy enough to see in your overflow tank and around the rim of your
radiator fill cap. I've seen it.
Plenty of it when I used the GM stop-leak (which I've read is
re-labeled Bar's Leak) as a preventative.
It left a "greasy" residue. Probably not enough to plug up a heater
core, but I stopped using it in my cars.
Didn't want it in my cooling system.
Probably are various kinds with and without aluminum, copper, etc,
depending on the application. Here's a couple of common products...
Bars MSDS... (20-25% organic material)
K-Seal MSDS.... (up to 7% flaxmeal)
On Tue, 5 Jan 2016 12:13:49 -0800, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Years ago when I used to get brass radiators rebuilt I asked the guy
if the alumiseal I was using was any good. He said it was ok as a
stop leak but a pain in the butt for him because he needed to clean it
all out before he could resolder everything. I used aluimiseal in all
my cars for many years and never had anything plug up. Since most
radiators went to plastic and aluminum I've found that they seem to be
almost indestructible if you change the coolant every 4 years or so.
On Tue, 05 Jan 2016 23:04:56 -0500, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
FYI, same thing happens to Fords, Toyotas, et al.
Old plastic goes bad. Mine were all over 15 years old.
It's a minor job putting a new rad in. Hardly a big deal.
You were suckered with a Lumina APV, weren't you?
Should have done your homework.
Then you wouldn't mistake it for a Lumina sedan.
And saved yourself more pain than I've ever had.
News here last week was that GM bought a $500MM part of Lyft. Why
aren't our fearless Congresscritters raising hell about this. I'm not a
big fan of taxis, but they are one of the few large collectives in the
US that actually works. I don't trust any of these cut rate ride
Same here. My belt broke, the engine got a little hot, but I stopped as
soon as I saw steam. The plastic top of the radiator had a 4 inch long
crack in it. I had to replace the radiator. The old brass ones never
cracked open, and when they got a leak, a little solder fixed it. So
rather than spend $5 on solder, I had to spend almost $250 for a new
radiator. And that was just for the part, I replaced it myself.
Whoever designed radiators made from plastic should be hung in the town
square by their balls.
On Wed, 06 Jan 2016 04:03:54 -0600, email@example.com wrote:
did the soldered seams let go, requireing soldering, but the brass
tanks cracked too, Sure, you could solder a patch on them when they
split = but they did split. And the hose fittings broke out of the
tanks too. Aluminum rads stand up batter than bras ever did - and when
they need to be repaired or replaced you can replace them for less
than the cost of a repair in many cases.
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