I generally stay away from any chemical flushing other than adding some liquid laundry detergent, mainly because the same reason - not knowing the condition the parts or what it might do if splashed on my stylish work clothes. Another reason for me is spilling a few drops into the gutter and having some save-the-planet freak call hazmat central. I grew up in a small town and never cease to be amazed at how ignorant the average big city suburban about any kind of do-it-yourself project. Butt I digress....
nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.
and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.
and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.
Good advice. I'm not a big fan of repairing the same part more than once. I'll disconnect it at the valve and if the valve is clear and working properly, I'll squirt the hose into the inlet and outlet a few times without pressurizing it. Then if it doesn't start flowing with a few bursts, I'll swap out the core.
Oh, and I'll be sure to swap the front tires right to left, for good measure. ;O)
That's a good kit. I replaced the radiator 18 months ago and flushed the system in the Aerostar with it fairly easily. Ended up letting the old coolant settle out overnight, then filtered thru a cloth and reused about 80% of it. Flushing only took about 15 gallons of fresh water to get completely clear. We can't dump it here but not a big deal to transfer it to gallon jugs for the recycle place.
Good point about the plastic cap. I have been checking it every time I check the oil and so far it hasn't leaked. After draining the original coolant, I filled it with water with 1/4 cup of liquid laundry detergent, let the engine heat up and drove it around the block a few times, then drained it. Next 2 flushes were water only. Then used the prestone T until it ran clear.
"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.com... Back to the 97 Aerostar again.... It appears that the heater core is nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.
Heater valve & vacuum work fine. A friend said to pull the valve off and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.
But, and this is a big butt, I have done these kind of things before and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.
Why the heck are you using a Windstar manual to diagnosw an Aerostar??? TOTALLY different animals. Get the right manual, or get someone who knows what the heck is going on to fix it!!!!!
nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.
and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.
and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.
to heater again and it is working properly. Once the engine was hot and valve open, both hoses between valve and heater core were hot.
to windshield and panel vents OK, but no air flows to floor. Also, with temp control set to hot, air to both windshield and panel vents is cold.
again next time. I was planning to dig into this today, but rain's a coming and I have to climb up the pole here at the old Haney place and replace a few shingles that sailed off last week.
Thanks!!!! I found the info for 97 Aerostar/Ranger!!!!
On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 4:12:25 PM UTC-5, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney w rote:
snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...
te in message news: snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.com...
early plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.
and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts o f from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flow s free and clean.
nd been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the co re and hose down the front seat.
heater again and it is working properly. Once the engine was hot and val ve open, both hoses between valve and heater core were hot.
to windshield and panel vents OK, but no air flows to floor. Also, with te mp control set to hot, air to both windshield and panel vents is cold.
next time. I was planning to dig into this today, but rain's a coming and I have to climb up the pole here at the old Haney place and replace a few shingles that sailed off last week.
I don't know if it is the same but the Ford Taurus had a bypass hose that w as in parallel with the heater core and if the core became even slightly re stricted, most of the water would flow throug the bypass hose. Flushing t he core hepled for a while as well as a pair of vice grips to restrict the flow of the bypass hose. I don't know whay the design had the bypass hose . It seemed to be an issue. Other cars don't have it. Look at the engine side of the firewall and see if there is any water connection betwen the i nput and output of the heater core.
is nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.
off and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.
before and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.
to heater again and it is working properly. Once the engine was hot and valve open, both hoses between valve and heater core were hot.
air to windshield and panel vents OK, but no air flows to floor. Also, with temp control set to hot, air to both windshield and panel vents is cold.
again next time. I was planning to dig into this today, but rain's a coming and I have to climb up the pole here at the old Haney place and replace a few shingles that sailed off last week.
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that was in parallel with the heater core and if the core became even slightly restricted, most of the water would flow throug the bypass hose. Flushing the core hepled for a while as well as a pair of vice grips to restrict the flow of the bypass hose. I don't know whay the design had the bypass hose. It seemed to be an issue. Other cars don't have it. Look at the engine side of the firewall and see if there is any water connection betwen the input and output of the heater core.
It's the same on this Aerostar. It might be to relieve pressure on the outlet side of the water pump until the thermostat opens, or to avoid pressuring the heater core too much (?)
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