Whenever I walk around the house, especially in carpeted areas, fleas
attach themselves to my legs and feet. Worse for my mother.
In the course of three or four days, we caught about fifty fleas.
Instead of trying to kill them with our fingers, we will pick them
off, and drown them in a big bowl of water.
Do electric flea traps work? I've vacuumed the carpets twice, but
still have fleas. The vacuum is old and doesn't have a very powerful
suction. SHould I get a steam vacuum? I want to avoid using pesticides
and carpet powders. I would like to know if those plug in flea traps
with glue traps attached, work.
I have a feeling I will have to order insecticides and powder.
:) Do electric flea traps work? I've vacuumed the carpets twice, but
:) still have fleas. The vacuum is old and doesn't have a very powerful
:) suction. SHould I get a steam vacuum? I want to avoid using pesticides
:) and carpet powders. I would like to know if those plug in flea traps
:) with glue traps attached, work.
The adult fleas are only a percentage of the on going problem..there
will be eggs, larvae and pupae to deal with. An easy flea trap can be
made that will attract adults, but will not stop a infestation from
happening. Plug a night light in an outlet near the floor or place a
small lamp on the floor and place a pie pan with water (few drops of
dish soap optional) under the light.
Treating the pets is a must..the fleas will develop where the host
animal is spending time...the adults are on the animal feeding...laying
eggs dropping fecal matter (dried blood). Where ever the animal is
walking, laying around, eating, etc. the eggs and fecal matter will fall
off. The eggs hatch and the larvae will find the fecal matter and other
organic matter and feed, so these areas also need to be treated with an
insect growth regulator or IGR to stop the cycle by killing the eggs and
keeping the larvae from developing into adults. Most products will
contain the insecticides permethrin or linalool which only hang around a
short period of time and will help kill the emerging adults from the
"cocoons" but the growth regulator in the products will be active a
number of months, but only effect the eggs and larvae.
You can get rid of a problem by only treating the pets with Frontline or
Advantage, but it takes time...if the company you hire truly has a steam
cleaner you should be able to stop the infestation if all areas are hit,
including under the beds and furniture cushions. But the fleas will be
back in a couple of weeks.
No pets. A few months ago, a raccoon came down the chimney and gave
birth while we were on vacation. THe mother abandoned the babies,
which were perhaps a week old, since their eyes were closed.I got
the raccoons to a wildlife preserve. Anyway. My mom noticed a few
fleas. I didn't notice any. Fast forward a few months and the flea
infestation. My money is on the the mother raccoon being the flea
carrier. Man do these fleas multiply.
There is a product sold by Home Depot called Zep flea killer. Active
ingredient is Nylar, which is an IGR according to the net info.
SUpposed to be safe for mammals. Its a spray for carpets, furniture
and drapes, and supposed to last for 7 months.
There are IGR powders sold on the net which meld to the carpet fibers
and are supposed to be vacuum proof. Home Depot's website only showed
the Zep flea killer spray.
:) the raccoons to a wildlife preserve. Anyway. My mom noticed a few
:) fleas. I didn't notice any. Fast forward a few months and the flea
:) infestation. My money is on the the mother raccoon being the flea
:) carrier. Man do these fleas multiply.
There may be a new host animal hanging around that will need to be
addressed if the raccoon was months ago... Check the ingredients of the
Nylar can and make sure it also has an insecticide on the label, if not
you may want to release a fogger to kill the exposed adults for the
growth regulator will do nothing for them and the ones in the cocoon
Yup, I think you're going to have to. Go the the store
and read the directions on different kinds and see what
you like. You'll likely have to do more than one
treatment also - there will be lots of eggs left over.
Are they ONLY in the home, or are they under it too?
If they're all over under it or around it, in the
soil/grass whatever, you're gtoing to have your work
cut out for you.
I'd suggest a trip to google.com and read up on the
various methods of flea controls.
No, the electric gizmos, traps etc. don't work for a
full fledged infestation which you seem to have.
Borax powder is said to dehydrate both the fleas and their eggs, thus
killing them and preventing further infestations.
I'd check into that. It's non-toxic to humans and normal house pets.
Also, it's cheaper than pesticides.
If you find a posting or message from myself offensive,
inappropriate, or disruptive, please ignore it. If you don\'t know
:) Borax powder is said to dehydrate both the fleas and their eggs, thus
:) killing them and preventing further infestations.
:) I'd check into that. It's non-toxic to humans and normal house pets.
:) Also, it's cheaper than pesticides.
Borax powders/dust are probably the most toxic application you can use
comapred to other solutions..along with it can be a pain for years
cleaning up dust afterwards.
It works. Almost 20 years ago I dropped a snow of Borax on the carpets in
and scuffed it in. The fleas disappeared, and have not reappeared. The stuff
works forever, apparently.
This on the advice of a post to rec.pets long ago, said to have been advice of
a Florida vet.
There followed a string of reports of success, and some reports of failure from
the West Coast, so maybe the West Coast fleas are different. Ohio fleas succumb.
Then there followed the alarm posts, that Borax is toxic, toxic data sheets, etc.
etc., and the panic-inclined attempted to clean up all the applied Borax (good
getting it out of the carpet - that stuff is there to stay).
My first Doberman lived to 13 1/2 so it can't be too toxic. The follow-on
is 6 and going strong, without fleas by the way.
For all I know, the stuff is in fact toxic, but I'm not panic-inclined and it's
been a permanent flea fix for my house.
No flea collars or anything have been needed ever since the first application.
Fleas are intolerable houseguests, but ones that aren't that hard to
Flea larvae growth hormone stuff is the big weapon, fairly harmless and
it LASTS a long time, but does nothng for existing adult fleas.
Patience or other ingredients will get them soon enough.
Decent performing upright vacuums (do best on floors) are less than
$100, get one and sprinkle some powder stuff then vacuum thoroughly.
When the fleas are snacking on you, something like 90% of the blood
comes right out of them as little lunch boxes for the larvae etc. in
the carpet to eat. Vacuum the bloodmeal up and keep the carpet dry with
sprinkled powder and you hit them where it counts. Anything left the
hormone stuff prevents from becoming an adult.
Vacuum all you want, you'll never get them all.
Start with powdering the rugs, vacuuming all furniture and curtains, washing
all affected laundry, linens etc. Powders containing primarily Pyrethrums
are very safe. Steam cleaning will probably help but again, many fleas may
not be in the rug.
Glue traps don't work for fleas because they do not forage like ants or
cockroaches but wait for a meal to walk by before jumping. Maybe you can
wrap an object in fly paper and warm it to body temp then wave ot over the
carpet. (sounds crazy and might catch a few but not all)
If the infestation continues, you'll need to get a bug bomb (also at
supermarket or pet store) and treat all rooms according to directions and
stay out of the house for a day at least.
Even if you kill all the fleas today, you will need to retreat to kill the
ones waiting to hatch from the eggs tomorrow.
Give in and get a spray or powder. Is your discomfort and risk of getting
an infection from scratching a bite worth worring about the negligabe risk
of toxic reactions to flea treatments.
I assume you have a pet. get it treated. Frontline or similar works best.
Clean the areas the pet goes to and have it checked for worms too as they
can be transmitted by flea bites.
I had this happen years ago. First, you got to get them off your pet.
Flea collars really help. Then get some flea spray made to be sprayed
on the pet. Get several cans. Thoroughly spray the pet. Then spray
the carpet and furniture with the same stuff. I did that once and the
fleas were gone. However, keep working on the pet, and keep a flea
collar on them.
Get over your aversion to pesticides for one day. Go get yourself some flea
bombs. Their effect is residual, so you most likely will not have to
re-bomb. My recommendation is not to skimp either. Use one bomb per room
because the fog has a difficult time making it from one room to the next.
This can be an expensive proposition but I would go this route.
Bonnie in NJ
:) My recommendation is not to skimp either. Use one bomb per room
:) because the fog has a difficult time making it from one room to the next.
:) This can be an expensive proposition but I would go this route.
:) Bonnie in NJ
Never over do the flea bombs...they can be ignited by a spark or pilot
light.... then house goes boom.
So should cutting off the electricity to the house via the circuit
breaker get rid of the pilot light ? THe directions on the Zodiac
fogger states to make sure elctrical appliances which cycle on and off
such as thermostats and refrigerators be shut off. Sam e with a pilot
light. I think the pilot light comes on automatically when the heater
is turned on. Not sure.
I tried the carpet powder, and it didn't work. Unless i didn't use
enough per carpet. I think it made the problem worse!!!!! I only
lightly sprinkled, and used one sweep of a broom to work it in.i USED
THREE CANS FOR 4 ROOMS and a hallway and a staircase. Maybe those one
gallon jugs of Zed flea sprays they sell at Home Depot would disperse
the IGR and adulticide better.Powder dispersion is not so easy. One
can of powder per room or rug?
Anyway, my mom is deathly afraid of the house blowing up if I use the
foggger, but that seems to be the best option for DIY. Ican't beiive
they made a product so freaking dangerous.
No. A pilot light is a small gas flame that is always on and serves
as the ignition source for the larger gas flame in aplliances like
gas furnaces, water heaters, ovens, etc.
If the house has no gas, the house has no pilot lights.
Not so expensive compared to the aggravation of flea bites. Back in the days of
my owning a cat, every mid summer I'd get eaten alive by the little bastards.
I'd toss the cat out and fog the house... like you said, one can for each room,
and come back in a couple of hours and air the place out. I'd powder down the
cat before he was let back in.
Then in 10 - 14 days I'd repeat it to get the eggs that were now hatching. That
generally took care of business until the following summer.
You can usually find foggers in three packs at the grocery store or home center.
It would work out to about $3/room if I recall correctly.
My new critter (a dog) doesn't seem to get fleas. I give her a pill every month
and life is good.
On my way to petsmart. Their online site lists Zodiac and Adams
foggers. One has IGR, don't know about the other one. 13 bucks for a
three pack. My mom's house is pretty big. I assume if we do this in a
kitchen, all pots, pans, glasses, ocntainers will have to be
completely covered or taken out.
I was thinking of spraying the carpets, drapes and furniture first
with IGR/adulticide combo sprays. If that doesn't work, nuke em!!!
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